mvusse

If the body is solid, I'd like the 4wd conversion better, but to each his own. I'd use blocks in the back, probably use the stock springs on front, but cut some off them to make them shorter.

I have that steering wheel, buckets and "hockey stick" arm rests. But I have full gauges minus tach. I believe those pin stripes indicate a maaco paint job, so at least one repaint in it's life, but I could be wrong on that.

I wonder how badly this messes with your O2 sensor, causing the computer to ignore the out of spec reading and running in open loop. Open loop will run a richer mixture, causing a drop in fuel economy. If you have a check engine light, I would it expect to come on as well.

When I said X2 I meant that had ALSO told them to bring back a Jeep pickup and go back to solid front axles. I said X2 in this forum, I left them a 10 line suggestion on their page. I assumed the X3 X5(or 6) and X-whatever did the same thing. Either way, :cheers:

Lessee... Saturday we're heading to Cleveland for a monster tailgate party followed by an Indians game. Same night there's a country music concert at the Brown's stadium just down the street. Gonna be a zoo. Then Sunday I'm driving 2 hours to Raccoon Creek State Park in PA to do 22 miles of hiking (while looking for tupperware in the woods, look up geocaching.com) Monday I'm working on getting my class III receiver ready to be installed and/or install ps fender and CB radio. Will be interrupted by the memorial day parade, since my daughter is in the marching band.

The turn signal light being on when the lights are on indicates a bad ground in the front lighting wiring harness. This causes the current from the parking light to ground through the turn signal filament and the instrument cluster.

X3

Awesome vehicle, but the last Comanche bedsides? "Cringe" is putting it mildly.

June 22, exactly 1 month from now. Hey, gotta think positive!

Also, either have a shop completely purge and then charge the system after it's installed, or buy a vacuum pump and fittings needed to draw a good vacuum on the system. Any water vapor (which is part of air) left in the system will freeze when running the AC. Ice crystals will ruin the bearings on the compressor in no time flat.

Whooops....

Welcome to the site. As somebody else (Ping Pong?) usually says: beer's in the fridge, and you probably don't want to sit on the tan couch. :cheers:

87= $4.07 89 = $4.27 91 = $4.49 and I saw desiel for $4.99 at a couple places arround town.. Pretty bad when the meters shut off at $75 with my Credit Card Purchase and my Tahoe (26 Gal Tank) is only about 3/4 full... Sw2 Be glad. My Suburban has a 42 gallon tank.... At least the pumps here go to $100 before they shut off. And I topped off the MJ at $3.69 yesterday. Today gas went up to $3.97 :nuts:

If you're worried about the "cool factor", you wouldn't be driving a Geo Prizm.

Assuming an average day is 160 miles, and gas costs $3.75 per gallon. The Scooter at 80mpg would use 2 gallons of gas, or about $7.50 per day A car at 20mpg would use 8 gallons of gas, or about $30 per day The savings would be $22.50 per day,, $112.50 per 5 day work week, or close to $500 per month.

I had a Geo Prizm, but at 160,000 miles it spun a main bearing. While working on it, the battery charger fried the computer. Had just sank about $400 into it, finally fixing a bunch of stuff that needed done years ago. Got $285 for it as scrap metal. I then bought my 4.0/auto/4wd Comanche to save on gas. My other vehicle is a Suburban, so anything is better. I seem to be averaging about 18mpg, 22 on the highway. Better than I expected. Also planning to ride my bicycle to work some this summer, and if gas goes over $4, I'm seriously thinking of getting a moped. May look like a dork, but you can't argue with 100mpg.

As far as the bumper is pushed back on the p/s, I'm worried about the front frame horn on that side.

With the rear wheels level and the front wheel slanted, the body will never be level. But I believe it shouldn't tilt as much as it does, though. Could be shocks, could be springs, could be combination of both. You do have the sway bar disconnected, right?

I decided I do not like you... But only because you're reminding me how badly I miss vacationing in Ormond Beach. 8)

I don't think you can delete a post after they have been replied to.

Sounds like you're having fun Sounds like you're having fun Sounds like you're having fun :D

Here in Ohio I believe it would be a great deal, and I would jump on it if I had any funds left. For Wisconsin it'd be horribly overpriced. :D

Buy a bunch of sticky labels and use them to label both end of everything you disconnect. Also, I know the Renix computer is different for automatic/manual as well as a bunch of other things (2wd/4wd?) Is the Chrysler system the same way?

The definition of death wobble I learned was a violent side to side shaking that would rattle the teeth out of your head, Usually the thought going through your head is "holy crud I'm going to die!" Hence the name "death" wobble. The only way to stop it was to slow down to 25-30 mph, and I have never had it happen at speeds below 50 mph. My track bar ball joint was bad, but replacing the track bar didn't solve the problem. What finally got rid of it was any combination of replacing a bad lca, replacing lca bushings and replace a bad wheel u-joint. I did all of that without a lot of driving in between, but it has not occurred in about 500 miles of driving since then. I imaging worn tie rod ends on your steering system could also cause your symptoms.

I have always learned when replacing a clutch to always replace the pilot bearing and throw-out bearing while you are in there. If you don't and it goes bad a year later you'd kick yourself for not doing it.