mvusse

I will be camping at Badlands both Friday night and Saturday night. As for where? No clue, I've never been there. But my truck has not been running worth a crap this past week with the summer heat. Thinking fuel pump and have a new one coming, but if that doesn't solve it I may need more time than I have to solve that one. Even so, driver's seat should be mounted some time this week, CB radio should be in before the end of the weekend. Tires will be at the last moment, to have as much tread as possible.

Short update: My seat brackets arrived in the mail Friday. Got what was left of the old ones off and bolted the new ones onto the driver's seat. Tomorrow a buddy of mine will weld a few tacks to make sure everything stays straight, and I should get the seat bolted to the floor this week some time. So I thought the end was in sight, Yeah, right... Driving home 90 minutes in 96 degree weather it started to run worse and worse until it could barely creep up the last hill, and barely maintain 40mph on a flat road. Noticed a problem for the first time a week ago, trying to pass somebody, but it's getting worse. Now that the truck has cooled off, and the temp is only 82 degrees (10:30pm), it can easily maintain 70 on the freeway, but still lacking serious hp at the top end. Misses hard enough to buck. I'm thinking either coil or fuel pump, and am betting on the fuel pump. Ordered a new one for $75, should be here Thursday. I'm guessing 4000 miles driving (between me and PO) with the tank always reading empty probably damaged the pump. It has always seemed loud, but the last few weeks has been really loud.

Timing is off. Too far advanced.

I vote for stripes. Or maybe a large custom 4x4 decal behind the rear wheel or something. You need something to break up all that blue, whether it be Sportruck stripes or something else.

If I were you, I'd check local restaurants to get some contacts for free used french fry oil, and invest in a setup to make your own biodiesel. Then drive your Chevy more for about $1 a gallon.

The tank is pressurized to 13psi when the coolant is hot, same as the rest of the system. Depending on where it is leaking, it isn't likely there's a way to fix it that will hold under pressure.

Everybody wants them, not a lot of people have them. Good luck! Be aware that the short bed and long bed roll bars are different. Also, if your Jeep came with one from the factory, it has extra supports under the bed floor tying to roll bar into the frame. For a functional roll bar that is a must. If you just want it for looks or to mount light, well, I've even see ones made out of PVC pipe!

My 235/75R15 on 15x7 rims rub just barely on the one side only. Have been too lazy to adjust the stop in a little bit to prevent it from going that far. Getting new tires next month anyway.

The differences are Renix or Chrysler (90 and older/91 and newer?), as well as auto/stick and possibly 2wd/4wd. Look at the model number on yours, I believe the last 4 digits need to be the same.

I ordered front tow hook brackets last night, and my last email says the order is being processed. Really like the email updates with the order status.

I think I was either 100,000 or 100,001 in the classifieds. Wasn't even paying attention,

Last Cherry Bomb I bought I paid $14.95. By the time you add shipping to $10, that one will cost more.

The compressor oil circulates with the freon. To protect the compressor, once the low pressure side drops below a certain level, the compressor will not engage to protect itself. There's also a pressure switch on the high pressure side that turns off the compressor when the pressure there exceeds a certain level. This is why the compressor usually cycles instead of being on continuously. I would have a shop completely purge the system of anything that might be left in it, and then convert it over to 134a, but instead of using the refrigerant from the kit, use one can with UV dye in it. Then when it quits again you can use a black light to see where the leak is at.

If you take a northern "short cut" I could help you out if you were in NE/EC Ohio...

I had a Cherry Bomb glass pack on my F100 and liked it. But under WOT 6000 rpm passing someone it was LOUD. Normal driving it had a nice rumble to it. I have a Thrush glass pack on the Suburban, and it's not loud enough to be annoying, but close. It needed the full length of the exhaust to quiet it down some. Just a down turn after the muffler like I did on my F100 was too loud on the Suburban. Could be a difference of the muffler, or the difference between engines (Stock 350 versus built 302). When I get around to redoing the exhaust om my Comanche (4.0), I'm trying a glass pack on it. I have also heard them on little 4 bangers, but they don't work too well for that, Too loud and sounds like an angry mosquito.

I like it. Sure it's a poser since it doesn't look like it'll do real well off road, but I like the look and am sure it can get me up the hill to work after a snowfall in the winter. I have had to walk the last mile and a half multiple times before I got a 4wd. Even a front wheel drive with snow tires can't always do it (even in reverse).

A number of years ago I converted my Geo from R12 to R134a using a kit from Autozone that cost $25 at the time.. Had a local shop completely purge the system to get all the old oil out, screwed on the new valves (fit right over top of the old ones) and added the R134a oil, then the refrigerant. Worked great for 3 years before it quit. I have heard that 134a will leak out through much smaller pores than R12, so the O rings designed for R12 will leak some after converting to R134a. So when it quit I added a new can of R134a for like $7 or so, and it worked again until the engine blew.

My bad. Yeah, it was OLN, which is now VS. Even so, their coverage sucked, while I liked Speed TV's coverage before 2005.

Cool! After looking forward to the 2008 Dakar all year, I was bummed to find out it had been canceled. Then even more bummed to find it may never be back (at least in Africa). The new one in Argentina and Chile may be worth watching, but this new race is is much sooner, and possibly better. Gonna have to wait and see. Does anybody know if a US network (like Speed, for example) will have daily coverage? I used to love Speed's coverage of the Dakar, but then they lost the deal to HGTV, and their coverage sucked. The last few years I've had to download coverage from some Australian station.

The stock temperature gauges are junk and not calibrated. To find out what your temperature really is, point a laser thermometer at the thermostat housing.

If your headlight work (they bypass the ignition switch) I would also suspect the switch first. If the switch is fine, check the fusible links. And of course battery cables/connections and ground straps.

Never thought of that, That will give your engine twice the holding power.

My F100 had that problem. Clutch is fine, a manual gear case connected to an engine will act as a brake, but does not make it impossible for the truck to roll. A steep enough hill, or a high enough gear will happily let gravity turn your engine over for you, through the gear case. At the local drive in (movie theatre, not restaurant) parking on the first row I had to toss a 4x4 behind the wheels so I wouldn't roll back. Because of compression in some of the cylinders, it is kind of a jerky roll, not smooth. Once I fixed the parking brake, I threw the 4x4 in the dumpster. And yes, it's called a *parking* brake, not an emergency brake. It is meant for parking, and on a stick shift an absolute necessity when parking on a hill. Even parking nose down with the transmission in reverse will not always prevent rolling. It will turn the engine over backwards, which could cause the timing chain to jump, or even camshaft or lifter damage. Same with parking nose up in 1st. Uncommon, but not impossible.

Yeah, I'm guessing you got plugged (pick any 3 of) fuel filter, fuel lines, injectors. Sitting for 7 years whatever gas was in it probably slowly evaporated, leaving powdery residue behind. That stuff may not redisolve completely, and might be fine enough for some if it to go right through the filter,

I always thought CDI stood for Common rail Direct Injection, which is diesel technology. What the heck is a CDI box for a gasoline engine?