mvusse

Edited my last post (on page 2) to add pics.

Don't necessarily need a 4 link setup. Theoretically, a 3 link will work just as well, and older (60s. early 70s) Chevy pickups I believe ran a 2 link with coils in the rear. In my opinion, it makes more sense to swap to leafs in front instead of coils in the rear. I'm thinking a leaf conversion on the front suspension could solve all DW problems the stock coil setup has. Then again, a properly done coil rear suspension could articulate a lot more than leafs.

In Europe, MoS2 oil (in a spray can) is about as common as WD40 is here. Everyone has it, every store carries it and it's cheap. Works way better as a penetrating lubricant than WD40, but I have never seen it here.

I just checked and 3 of my new tires were made in the 36th week of 07, the fourth is 6 weeks older. So less than a year old. The spare, which came off my F100, was made in 99, which means it must have been pretty much brand new when I bought it.

No popping heads, no cussing, no throwing computers, just a calm "motor blew." Are you giving up? Say, which motor you talking about? The 3800, or the one that had the timing problem?

Got my new rear springs on. Measured from center of hub to bottom edge of flare, the driver side went from 19" to 21.5", passenger side went from 18" to 21" . Pretty much a 3" lift just from installing better condition stock springs (old ones had 1 broken leaf each). Looking at it, I think I need to lift the front some to make it look right (I'm used to the a$$ end sagging 2"...), but I think I'll leave it alone for now. Instead of getting a 3" left next year I might just go with Motion's 1.75"/2" budget lift. I have brand new 235/75R15 tires and am afraid 3" more in the back may make them look too small. Then I turned the truck around and bolted a front skid plate on. Just have to do something with my CB antenna and I'm all ready for Badlands. Old (top) and new (bottom) driver side. Notice anything missing? How 'bout now? And old and new passenger side:

What causes the problem? Is the 242 longer than the 231?

I like it, but with the 2500 bumper. The old style bumper kinda kills the look of the grill.

Hmmm, if we include the weekdays too (I'm off all week and nowhere to go), I bolted down my seat, am in the process of installing new rear leaf packs and front skid plate. Still have to move the CB antenna to the roof, possibly install chevy drop shackles and /or front lift blocks. Noting major, as most big stuff has already been done.

Wildman had a good point when he told me WD40 is just kerosene in a can. PB Blaster works 10 times better.

Besides the valve, there is also a door under the dash that diverts the airflow either through or around the heater core (or a mix of the two) to select temperature. I believe that door is there in everything from 1986 (84?) through current. So the vacuum valve can just be taken out of the system.

The shackles only raise one end of the springs. If you raise one end 2" and leave the other end in place (can't move that side), then the axle halfway between the two ends will only raise 1", dropping the truck 1". The only way a 4" longer shackle will drop a truck 4" is when you raise both ends of the leaf 4". But only 1 end uses a shackle, the other end mounts more or less directly to the frame. Elementary, my dear Watson. Then again, in high school I read about a guy who was taught 2+2=5. (1984)

I assumed a 2" drop shackle would drop a Chevy 2", so it would be 4" longer than stock. Maybe they mean a drop shackle 2" longer than stock? That would drop a Chevy 1" or lift a Comanche (just over) 1". Like you said, we'll have to wait and see.

Autozone will be open 7:30 am...

Got my new tires. My seat (that's been trying to dump me out every left hand turn I made since I bought it) has finally been firmly bolted down. Now I find out the release for the tilt seat back is broken. :mad: Rear spring packs and skid plate should be arriving tomorrow and still have to move my CB antenna to the roof.

The $4 cork one worked fine for me.

If I do the drop shackle it will only be for a year or so. I'm planning on a 3" lift next year until I can save up enough to do 6.5"/soa/long arm correctly in a few years.

Basically, unless I forgot how to read a tape measure (which would be bad, as I build oak furniture for a living...) and I didn't miss anything obvious, a 1" drop shackle should give about 1" of lift and a 2" drop shackle should give about 2" of lift. the extra 1/8" I'm ignoring, because there is no way anybody will be able to notice a difference that small.

I just went out and measured my 94 Suburban. Don't know if it is the same because it is what used to be referred to as a "heavy half". Kind of in between 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton. Anyway, the shackles on it are 4.5" eye to eye. My Comanche measures 4.25" eye to eye. So a Chevy 2" drop shackle should be 8.5" and should give 2.125" lift. 2*2+4.5=8.5 (8.5-4.25)/2=2.125. Right?

http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=10658

The Renix 4.0 will never start fast due to the diagnostics being done on the first few cranks. I believe the item is to solve issues with no starting at all caused by corrosion at the contact points of the wiring harness.

Here in Ohio I have seen cars with 4x4s bolted on for a bumper. I guess in your neck of the woods they don't mess around, though. You'd collapse the frame before putting a wrinkle in that bumper.

If you're talking about he Celebrity, yeah. 2 more years and you could run historical vehicle plates on it. A buddy of mine in high school had an 80s Celebrity wagon. Not too cool, but he had a point it was better than a bicycle.

The transmission may need to be swapped alongside the engine. If your 2.5 has an AX 5, there is no way to bolt that onto a 4.0 that I know of, nor would it last if that were possible.

Your description sounds like a timing problem. A loose distributor could definitely cause this.