mvusse

Okay, thanks. I didn't really think it would fit, but thought I would ask to make sure.

A coworker has one taking up space in the garage. It came off a Wrangler with the coil springs, not the leaf springs. I believe that would be a TJ?

When I lived in Canada (87 through 93), Canadian Tire sold after market cruise control kits for $100. They were setup to work with mechanical speedo cables, the one to the speedo was rerouted to the cruise control and another one from the cruise went to the speedo. They worked off engine vacuum. The newer ones are all digital and use a servo to move the throttle.

When you have Mountain Dew, you don't need Mello Yello.

My first mod was installing a new front end: bumper, both fenders, header panel/grill/light assembly. The guy I bought it from had broadsided a deer at 55mph. If fixing body work doesn't count as a mod, or fixing anything, like a leaking gas tank, track bar and bracket etc., rear springs, then the first mod I did was to add front tow hooks. After that I installed a CB radio, got tires and installed 1.75" lift blocks in the front. Oh, and installed a class III receiver somewhere in there to act as a rear recovery point, tow my trailer and carry my bicycle rack. I think that was before the tow hooks.

Our local police cars aren't black and white, they are painted solid black, and have decals applied to them. About 10 years or so ago, they were solid white, with decals. The last black and white police car I saw was in Smokey and the Bandit. That was from 1977 or so.

Well, I got a roof mount, but messing with the tip I did get the swr of the 3 footer down below 3. Not much below 3, but good enough for now. I'll drill a hole in the roof later. I also just installed 1.75" lift blocks in the front to get the truck closer to level again. Measured from center of wheel to bottom edge of top of the fender flare I have 20.5" passenger side rear, 21" driver side rear and 19" on both sides in the front. I do realize that will mess with my not too good already departure angle a bit, but after thinking about that I decided the added ground clearance was more important with the exposed gas tank and transfer case. I did snap off one of the sway bar links in the process of removing a nut, though. :mad: For the time being I installed a pair of 2" shock extenders on my current shocks, which seems to work. I can stuff the wheel to within 1" of the fender liner without the shock bottoming out, and droop to almost where the lca hits the top of the axle bracket with the shock fully extended. Will get new shocks later this year. My camera is on the fritz, so no pictures of the install. When I get it working again I'll post a picture of the new stance.

My stock headliner was held in place with 4 pieces of velcro 2 on the front near the sun visors, 2 in the back above the rear window) and 2 metal clips, 1 above each door. Then the sun visors and trim will also hold it in place when you reinstall them.

My oldest daughter is plotting against me. She's borrowing almost all my camping equipment for Wednesday and Thursday night, to have it back some time Friday morning, when I will have to move it all from the Suburban to the MJ. So much for being packed and ready to go Thursday night and leaving early Friday morning. Somehow I'm guessing I will not get there until like 7pm or so, instead of mid afternoon as I was planning.

Might this be the distributor indexing problem? Anyone?

I use my GPS to see how far off I'm buy, and just use the speedo after that. I know when it read 65 I'm going 70. So if I stick to the speed limit, at speeds below 65 I'm off less than 5mph, at 65 I'm going 5 over. Should be close enough to be safe from tickets. This is stock gears, but 235/75 tires instead of 205/75. If I'm going any bigger and/or regear I might switch speedo gears, but have no intention of doing so for now.

On my 87 long bed D35 they go in from the front.

I think what Eagle was getting at is that caster angle can either cause or allow DW to happen. The only way to change the caster angle is to rotate the axle, which in turn changes the pinion angle. My truck is at stock height, so with the correct caster, the pinion angle is correct. When you lift a Comanche (or Cherokee), you would want to rotate the axle to correct the pinion angle, but at the same time you are adversely affecting caster. So you'd have to find a balance between a good enough pinion angle, and caster being "close enough" for DW to not occur. I did not reread the entire thread, though, and my memory is not the best. Edit: to add that my last post is based on my personal experiences with my truck, and states my personal opinion. I have only owned my truck since February, and other people participating in this thread have far more experience than I when it comes to the idiosyncrasies of the MJ and XJ (and others?) front suspension.

Yeah, I think he went a little too far on those. But that's just my personal opinion.

Thank you.

If you think it's in good enough shape to safely drive 7 hours, it should tow the CJ no problem. Just take it easy, accelerate slowly, and keep your speed down. How many miles does it have?

My apologies if I already asked this in the past, as my memory is pretty bad. Does an XJ transfer case skid plate fit an MJ without modification? If not, how much modification would be needed if at all possible? Not looking for one *right now*, but thinking about the future as my gas tank and transfer case are like sitting ducks under there.

When I had DW, it was always caused by either hitting a bump in the road with my ps front tire, or making a very slight right hand turn, always at 55MPH or higher, never below 55MPH. What was allowing my DW to happen was both a loose track bar at the frame bracket, and worn bushings in the lcas. Bad ds front u-joint may or may not have been a contributing factor. Now with new U-joint, new (to me) track bar + bracket and new lca bushings, I have not had it happen anymore, except for the one time the castle nut on the track bar loosened 1/4 turn (somehow the cotter pin came out). But even with the track bar being tight, I had experienced it before I replaced the bushings. So in my case a loose track bar could allow it to happen, and worn/old lca bushings could allow it to happen. From what I understand, these are the first two things to check, in that order, but I imagine tie rod ends, wheel/tire combination and possibly even springs/shocks can factor into it.

Mine use a T50.

Bob, My wife says bring your wife. She wants another female there. But the grandson will work as well, we always like having him around. :cheers: My one daughter will be there with me. But she's only 11.

XJ (Cherokee) axles will work on an MJ (Comanche), but not without cutting the spring perches and welding on new ones. Comanche is spring *under* axle, while Cheroke is spring *over* axle. the spacing between the springs is different also.

You mean like this?

Looking good. Better than mine anyway. Check what rear axle you have. If it's a D35, I would not bother putting a locker in it, as you would probably just end up breaking the differential. If it's a D44 you should be all right.

I've learned from experience (my own as well as others) that you can't safely "go just one more week" before fixing anything having to do with brakes or steering. And yet I find myself doing just that at least once every few years, just because I can't be bothered to fix it "today". Sorry to hear about your luck. You seem to have quite a bit of it, but just like me it's usually bad luck. Hopefully somebody can fix you up with new front brakes. As for the Badlands trip, there's always next year, right?

Yeah, but it's not Jeep's (Daimler-Chrysler? AMC?) fault that you blew a GM engine.