mvusse

Brushes in GM starters are not replaceable They are also not cheap, probably because the solenoid is built onto the starter. I paid $79 for my Geo and Olds 98, $209!!!! for my Suburban (gear reduction starter). My Ford, however, was $19 for 2 year warranty, $29 for lifetime warranty, and it was made so brushes could be replaced.Of course when mine went bad it was because the housing for the drive gear cracked, having nothing to do with brushes.

The only spare part I carry is the spare tire. I also always have a bag of emergency tools with me. When wheeling I take the top section of my toolbox with me, loaded with some 150 pounds of sockets, wrenches and what not, in case I need to do more serious wrenching than my emergency kit allows.

Don't know about official, but he is a professional door guy. Just not car/truck doors :D

Great thing about GM is that just about anything will bolt up to anything. Our Jeeps don't quite seem to work that way. An AX4/5 may interchange with a 700R4 because they were not only used behind the 2.5, but also the GM 2.8V6. The 4.0 is completely different and will probably need some sort of adapter, assuming someone actually makes one. Also, are you going to keep the NP231 (assuming you have a 231), or move to a 241 that was ment to be bolted to a 700r4? The 241 is quite a bit larger (I compared the one in my Suburban side by side with the 231 in my MJ) and may not fit the tunnel. But you may need an adapter to bolt a 231 to a 700r4.

700r4 is too weak for a full size truck/SUV with a 350. In something like a Comanche it'll be just fine. Main question is whether or not it fits in the tunnel, and accept you will probably have to fab up a custom cross member to mount it, as well as drive shafts. It is unlikely the transfer case will end up exactly where the old one was. I assume it'll be toward the rear a bit more.

Rust is not a who, but a what. It's what metal eating termites crap out.

Love that dual axle Ford:

Could you post a picture somewhere else? The site won't let me in unless I register.

I would start by running the AC to see which fuse blows. Either the fuse block itself or the manual (or both) will say what that fuse is for, and what size belongs in there..

I'd never heard of Hercules when I bought my truck. it came with a set of mostly bald Terra Trec A/W. Never seen that brand again until now. Like BMJ, keep us in formed on how well they perform (on and off road).

Needs like she needs a bit of work, but there's potential there.

Not going into a lengthy explanation here. Suffice it to say I took a number of physics courses in college, including nuclear physics and particle physics, and am not worried about it. But why did I go to college for 4 years and got a job in a wood shop making oak furniture?

Are you sure you posted the right picture? That looks like my 24x32 garage at my last house. My then wife always complained about having the largest single car garage in town :D

I always thought they were only make from 86 through 92, until I read the original post. But it seems others agree.

As stated earlier, the tank you sold me is fine. It's been wirebrushed, rust reformed and painted. I have 2 leaking sender units. One on the truck, and one I'm trying to fix. As for the spare tank? It works as my leak tester for sender units, but with a fist sized hole in the rear left top corner, it will never be used to hold gas again. I'd never heard of seal all and had to google it. That looks like what I'm looking for. Now to find a store that sells it. And before I go off road again, that tank will have a skid plate under it, even if I have to buy a welder and make it myself. Actually, that is the plan. It survived Badlands fine, but the paint scrape I left behind in the rock quarry did scare me a bit.

I have a 1994 Suburban with 165,000 of Ohio road salt miles on it. Just last year it started showing cosmetic rust (not rot through). From what I understand, the body is all galvanized steel and the bottom is electro coated with a rust resistant primer. I wonder what they changed since then. I do know the older (square) style Suburbans before 1992 were notorious rust buckets.

If you have a variable speed jigsaw, cut slowly.

Do not attempt open the drain C#*@ on the radiator! At least not if you don't want to replace it (radiator that is, not drain C#*@). After 20 or so years they usually do not want to open without breaking. Take the lower coolant hose off instead.

You're having U bolts made? They are common enough that I imagine places like Fastenall would have them. As well as just about any car dealership in various sizes. There's gotta be a bunch that interchange with Comanches. I got a set for my Ford and for my D35 from Advance Auto Parts; they have quite a selection in the help section.

I can see where the hole is when I watch it as I fill the tank. A really tiny pin prick of rust turns darker after a while, and then it grows to about 1/4" across over the span of about 5 minutes. Truly minuscule, but I'm sure it's enough to be able to smell the gas vapour when parked indoors, and I'm also afraid that it'll grow bigger if not fixed. If not for gas dissolving most paints, I would just hit it with a rust reformer, and then a spray bomb inside and out.

$35 for the smallest kit is more $$$ than I want to spend. I only need to cover like 1 square inch.

If it is possible, I would suggest either a 200R4, which should be plenty strong enough for a 4 cylinder (I had it in my 1984 Oldmobile 98 with a 5 liter V8, that car weighs more than a Comanche), or a 700R4, which is basically a 350 with overdrive. But I think a 350 or 700R4 might be overkill. And you'd have to figure something out for the electrically controlled lock up torque converter, even if just a switch on the dashboard. That is assuming they are readily available in Europe.

Do your front tires stick out the whole way around, or just on the front side? I know some newer year Cherokees (95? 96) have front flares that get wider on the front to make up for the front of the body (fenders) getting narrower.

My oldest is 17, Problem here is that she is a very skillful driver and she knows it. That sometimes makes her a little reckless. At least she's not too good a navigator (and knows it too) so she doesn't venture far from home by herself. So far no accidents yet.

Even with 235/75R15, I rubbed the inside of the fender well while on an RTI ramp under full flex. If it can happen on a ramp, it can happen off road. I doubt you'll see that much articulation on the road, though.