gogmorgo

I've currently got a factory radio/tape deck with the clock from a '93 XJ with the nfg tape player pulled out and a getto-rigged aux cord hacked into it's place and hanging out the opening for the cassette. I can only get three fuzzy radio stations out here so all I really need is the aux input, but I do have a not inconsiderable CD collection.

Same size I'm running on 3.55's, shouldn't be a problem. Not really a significant change from factory, just cheaper cause they're more common. :D I was just saying if you were planning on going to bigger tires in the future, now would be the time. But then you'd also need to do the front or else give up 4x4... As to the tires in winter conditions, I have no first-hand experience with them, but know a couple guys with them and they seem to do alright. I'm in 'Toba, and our winters are basically the same, maybe a touch colder on average, but maybe less ice on the roads because we don't freeze-thaw cycle as much as you guys, chinooks don't usually make it out this far.

Depending on how sagged your rear springs are, the 2" XJ shackles could well level out the truck a bit from the factory rake, at least with the front spacers installed. I think XJ shackles are 1" shorter than MJ shackles, good for a .5" drop in height. After tossing a bit of extra weight on the front it might actually not be too bad. 1.5" lift or so on both ends.

Looking forward to installed photos. Doesn't quite look like it will match the aesthetic of the 80's-tastic MJ interior, but it's hard to judge. Tim, if I could find a modern head unit that matches the MJ interior, that would be pretty sweet. Everything I've seen so far, even the higher class stuff and "retro" decks just looks way too out of place. Too many flashing lights, big LCD screens, не хорошо.

Just a comment, 3.55 is the factory ratio for the 4.0/aw4. If you're planning on increasing the tire size at all, you might want to go a bit deeper with the new gears.

I apologize for putting you down, although that was never my intention. I believed your purpose was to educate anyone else who read this about a problem and solution, and I only intended to further this, as I thought Hornbrod's argument for their use wasn't the strongest. Again, I apologize.

For a 2.8? If you plan on driving it, it's not a collectors item. If it's minty and 100% original, then yeah it'll be pretty rare, as with any Jeep, most of them are pretty hacked or beat up, and there aren't too many 2.8's left... only '86's got them. But there's a reason for that. You're looking at the highest trim level of the first year of production, which was only offered that year, but it comes with the least desirable engine. So yes, it's collectible because there aren't many, but there also aren't many four-cylinder Vega's kicking around either.

I've also found that the worm gear type hose clamps aren't the best choice for smaller diametre lines because the gear can slice through the lines. They also don't react well to overtightening. Just about every motorsport organizing body bans them for use with fuel lines because of their tendency to fail. Like Hornbrod said, get the proper ones.

It always makes me wonder what else just failed that was preventing the first thing from working...

If wherever your climate is doesn't consistently get too far below freezing, you'll be okay with the 15w40. If you see 0F pretty regularly you might want to go for 10w40. I run 5w40 in the winter, but I'm looking at -20F to -40 pretty frequently... and I mix my coolant for -60F to be on the safe side.

Could you describe the ticking noise a little more? Like, does it make the noise as the wheel is turned, or when you hold it turned? Does it come from the steering wheel or somewhere else? Is it a single click or is there an angry gnome in there with a chisel carving runes into a cavern wall?

Bunch of parts arrived today. Accidentally sent them to my parents address (thanks Paypal) and they were a little concerned when this strange box from Ukraine showed up. But at least they didn't go to one of my other old addresses, all of which are way more than 70 miles away. Hopefully I have time in the next little while to get it out from under it's naturally developed winter coat and get it going again.

I would say goose-neck style hitch is most likely. Doesn't look like enough gap for a fifth-wheel. I would be very concerned about inclines and speed-bumps with that tight a gap, but then I guess he would already be with that car.

XJ rear wiper switch? Throw in some heavy resistors (say from a blower motor resistor pack) and make it a two-speed. Or just a defrost switch for single-speed.

There should be quick disconnects in the lines, not too far from the radiator. If/when you destroy the plastic disconnect clips, Dorman makes them and you should be able to find them at any parts store. I can find the part number if you need. As for unscrewing them, it's much easier once you've got the disconnects off. You can just spin the whole thing off once you've got the rad out without worrying about twisting/bending them.

3.07 is the highest ratio available. Numerically low indicates a higher ratio. Also available in MJ's are 3.31, 3.55, 3.73, 4.10, and 4.56. 3.55 is probably the more common one, the next being the 3.07's you already have. As was mentioned, it's probably going to be quicker, easier, and cheaper just to swap the axles vs getting them regeared. But what you're wanting to do with them will dictate which ratio you want to use. XJ axles are the same as MJ axles except for the rear perches, and it's not going to be ridiculous to pay a shop to re-weld them for you. As far as where to find in ND, car-part.com may be helpful in finding junkyard axles. If you're not concerned about crossing the border, depending on where you are, Wesman Salvage in Brandon, Manitoba is "nearby" and has a few MJ's with 3.55 rear axles and one with 3.31's. Might want to call first about prices (and/or arrange to have them pulled before you get there). There are probably closer yards though if all you're after is 3.55's. If you're going for XJ axles, (more available and the cost of welding perches likely beats driving) I'd recommend getting them out of a 97-99.

With no refrigerant, the a/c won't come on. Don't know if it'll trigger the fan either if it's not on. But if it's cold enough out, the a/c won't come on anyhow as the pressure in the system drops low enough to trigger the safety switches. I can hear mine kicking on for a couple seconds every now and again when in defrost.

So what you're saying is it'll fire up and run great if it's been sitting, but if you shut it off it won't start up again? Am old Chevy I was messing with did that sometimes. I dicked around with it a bunch, my grandpa (retired mechanic) did as well. We'd replace one thing, then another and another, each one seemingly fixing the problem for a couple days, or weeks, but eventually it would just randomly lose spark. Eventually we gave up and took it to a mechanic. He kinda went through the same process, and eventually just went ahead and replaced the whole distributor. When he did that, he noticed that one of the coil wires had slowly rubbed/burned through, and was shorting out. Sometimes when messing with it, we'd push it away from contact for a bit and it would run great, until the wire wiggled itself back. Beyond that anecdote, I don't have much else for you. Unfortunately I'm pretty unfamiliar with the Renjx system. When I get home tomorrow I'll try digging up that electrical manual for you.

Hard to tell from the pic, but do you have a small lift? If so what? Death wobble is when a shock loading (from a pothole for example) goes into harmonic resonance, getting bounced back and forth from one end of the axle to the other. Any vibration from any source, tire balance, component wear, etc. could be what pushes it into resonance, which is why there is no one clear solution, and so much controversy. Best thing to do is go over everything to make sure everything's as it should be, no bent or cracked links, no play in bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, wheel bearings, etc. Also make sure that the straight lines between the drag link connection points and the track bar connection points are parallel. The steering damper should be in good working order (and dampers are legitimate engineering solutions for reducing oscillations, so anyone telling you that it's just a bandaid fix is misinformed... Although yes, there's only so much even a damper in good condition can do). Tire balance is also a factor that could contribute, and can often be checked by rotating the rear tires forward. Proper caster, camber, and toe (i.e. your alignment) are all also very important. Of course this is just my opinion based on watching the arguments every time the subject comes up. Also from coming across the odd comment about it from engineers. I could always be way off base, but I don't think I'm any more so than anyone else here.

Heater hose should work, but it's not the "right" choice. Ideally you'll want something hydrocarbon resistant, but it's not the end of the world if you can't get it, you'll just end up replacing it again a little sooner... but not by much. What you're looking at is part of your crankcase vent system. Won't hugely affect how the engibe's running to have it disconnected, but you will notice improvements in oil life and consumption, and it's important for emissions compliance.

I'm curious about this as well. My slider's latch is busted too.

Can you borrow someone else's known good icm to check? How many of Cruiser's Tips have you done?

Interesting. I thought they were aluminum bodied, but maybe that's just the H1? I wonder what alloy it was.

I've successfully soldered with butane lighters. Regular cigarette lighters leave too much soot residue and aren't nice to fingers, but can be used in a pinch. If you put that yellow wire back together, what happens? Twisting the wires together would be enough to determine if it's the problem. What made you decide to cut the wire in the first place? Anything else you've done? Probably wouldn't hurt to check all the butt connectors. If they're not solidly crimped, sometimes they like to shake apart. Do you have an electrical manual? There's one that's been floating around on here recently.

If you've got a different amount of spacing between the perches as you do the spring hangers, whichever side which has the stiffer spring and least bushing play will try to centre itself, meaning it'll pull/push the axle one way or the other. Due to location of driver and fuel tank, the spring on the driver's side will wear faster, so won't be quite as stiff as the passenger side, which probably explains why it's pushing that way. Will it make a huge difference in the way the truck drives? Probably not, as long as the axle is still straight. But if it isn't straight, then you'll see slight handling eccentricities and accelerated tire wear due to the alignment problem. And either way you'll see a small increase in spring and bushing wear vs having the proper perch spacing.