gogmorgo

In defense of those getting defensive, what I witnessed was you coming on here and attacking his product and his business. Multiple posts in a row off the cuff don't make it look like anything other than an attack. Attacks are always met with a defense. Going back to why I posted in the first place, it has more to do with me seeing unreasonable demands from a customer. You ordered the product (and I'll admit it wasn't cheap, I would be frustrated if this happened to me too) and it wasn't what you expected when it showed up. It wasn't defective, it just wasn't the product you wanted, but it was what you ordered. Turns out the seller's return policy is that in that case the buyer pays return shipping... this is very common when buying things online, as otherwise you would get people clicking all willy-nilly and ordering a bunch of stuff, returning it, and you get stuck with paying for their mistake. As an aside, most places wouldn't permit returning an installed part unless it was determined to be defective, but you've been offered the opportunity anyhow. Is it the best for customer retention? Maybe not, but it's pretty standard for internet stores. It's difficult to say as well that defensive people prevented you from getting words out when you posted first without posting the entire story, or even the entirety of your end of it. My dealings with Brandon/Krusty have been positive. He was willing to work with me to figure out my unique international shipping needs for my hitch, and I couldn't be happier with it or the transaction. I can understand your issue with the slider fitment. It does look a little odd to be square with the axles and not the body, but for functional reasons I think I would prefer it to be square with the axles so the vehicle's outer dimensions are the same the whole way down the side, instead of increasing the risk of getting hung up because something's sticking out further in one place than another. Perhaps its a generational thing, but when talking to someone I don't know, I'd much rather do so by email (or I guess text message) than have to figure out what kind of a person they are just from their voice. I also prefer having the entire thing written down than to have to rely on my memory and hearing (which even over a landline isn't always great) and it gives me an opportunity to communicate the entire story before the other person has a chance to react to insignificant details. It also forces you to sit down and think through your response. Is it easy to communicate emotion or sincerity? Maybe not, but I'm the kind of guy who is always sincere, and expects the same of those with whom I communicate. But either way, this is between you and someone else, and as such this is the last I will post in this thread. I hope you find a solution that is acceptable to both parties. As far as inexpensive shipping goes, have you considered uship.com or a similar service? Might find someone already going that way with some extra space willing to move them cheap.

Mm. Missed that. Tbh just skimmed it and saw them listed, it's 1000 miles away so I didn't look too close.

Well, I pulled the throttle body off to change out the gaskets only to discover that I got a gasket set for a carby model and not my tbi. Not certain yet if it was my mistake of the seller's. All the other gaskets will work, just not the ones for the throttle body, The gaskets didn't look too bad, so I just wiped them down with a shop towel and carb cleaner and bolted it all back together. Only part I ended up changing was the air filter, but this still happened from my no-start way back when. Fired up like it was just parked the night before, didn't even need a boost after sitting that long after I wore the battery down. As you can tell it hasn't moved off that spot for quite a while... almost three months. I swept the better part of fifteen inches of snow off it. It's glaringly obvious through that I'll need to address the brakes soon. Double pumpers now.

What's wrong with that? I do most of my work conversations by text because as was explained to also be the case for Brandon, where I work cell service is patchy at best. Sometimes it takes three or four tries just to get a message sent, and I've had often had the incoming message icon flashing for five to ten minutes before the entire message came through. Also if he's texting you, it means you've got his personal cell number. Try getting that from another parts manufacturer... pretty personal customer service if you ask me.

With the factory bumper brackets, Krusty's hitch goes outside. The bumper brackets are sandwiched between the frame and the hitch. It looks to me like that's how Tim did it with the Fey, as well. Just something I noticed, it looks like if you swapped the bumper brackets between sides, it would minimize the amount of the angle needing trimmed, just enough to fit over the frame. This would minimize the loss in lateral bracing, if it's possible.

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-engines-and-engine-parts/oakville-halton-region/jeep-comanche-for-scrap-parts/1145102587 Price listed as $20 if you can get it out of his yard without tearing the place up or spilling fluids.

When you say you power-slid into the HHR... That would indicate that you were on the gas and kicking the tail out. It would also get you a reckless driving citation if you used those words to the cop, regardless of who pulled out in front of the other. If on the other hand all that happened was you stomped on the brake, locked all the wheels and slid sideways, I would say that's a very fightable ticket. Glad to hear you're alright, though.

Fwiw I see quite a few 4.7 WJ's up here for cheap with blown head gaskets and/or warped heads. But none that cheap.

What's a "legal wattage"? The Manitoba Highway Traffic Act only specifies a minimum illumination distance (110m for high and 30m for low iirc) and that the low beams have to be aimed so they don't blind oncoming drivers. I assume it's similar in other jurisdictions.

I'll point out that if that's the one Hornbrod recommended to me a few years ago, I did have to hack a contact or two off the outside of it to make it work. Not a huge deal. It was pretty obvious what needed to go once I tried to plug it in. Protip, make sure it fits while you have both the switch and connector out of the truck, much easier to modify it before everything's attached.

What temp is the tstat rated at? If it's much less than the factory 195°, it'll pop open way early and struggle to warm up. The parts-store one I put in is 195 and had no problem getting up to temp, even approaching -40° with no added air control or even if I forgot to plug in the block heater. Five minutes idle and 1 minute driving and it was up to temp this weekend when I started it at 0°F... but then the tstat in it now is of unknown origin or condition.

While not wrong, I don't think that's a good explanation. Just about every XJ you find will have some melting going on at the headlight switch. Whether it's poorly designed is up in the air. In most cases it lasts quite a long time before anything happens. The headlights are wired from the factory the same way your house lights are. Everything goes through the switch. AMC being just about broke probably did it to save costs. They also pulled the switch out of the parts bin instead of designing a new one. As such it did what it was designed to do, save the company money. And it did work. I find it hard to believe that many Jeeps set themselves on fire in the 80's, otherwise they would have changed it. But they didn't. However yes, the switch is the bare minimum to sustain the load of the headlights. As the wiring ages, corrodes, etc., the resistance builds and the load through the switch increases, and it starts getting a bit hot. When I said they catch fire, well, I can't guarantee they all will, but mine did. I fortunately was on the ball and managed to put mine out before it was too severe, others haven't been so lucky. The upgrade harness as mentioned is a relay harness. It's supplemental, completely plug and play. It plugs into one of the existing headlight sockets, using the factory headlight wiring to trigger the relays, enormously reducing the load on the switch. You're under no obligation to buy a pre-made harness, although there are a few popular ones by putco and others, an H4 relay harness is what you'd be looking for. You can also make your own if you choose. I would recommend going that route, as it also easily permits you to upgrade your headlights in the future, if you want. The harness I put together will actually support over 300W of light because I used 10awg for the power feed to each filament, although I haven't upgraded my headlights yet. After installing the upgrade harness, you'll also notice that your headlights are much brighter, partly why I haven't upgraded the lights just yet. Going back to your original question, there are still plugs that will work. I got one from Airtex I think, not sure on the part number just now but I'm sure I could find it if you need. I've also seen them replaced simply with insulated spade terminals as well, female, 1/4". But having the connector makes it easier, less guessing if you have to replace the switch again. And some advise on Googling. You can try using the search feature on this site, although I find it better sometimes to use google, with the term site:comancheclub.com to restrict the search to just this site. That's not to say CC's search isn't any good, google just brings up a different set of results.

My '91 4.0 has done something similar for a while. It doesn't ever get hot enough to call it overheating, just goes back and forth from straight up to the next line over. I can't say when exactly it started doing this (I don't remember it doing so when I first got the truck) but it might have coincided with swapping out the thermostat... but it was a couple months after the swap (also completely new hoses) before I noticed it doing it. At the time I did notice, every part of my cooling system except the engine block, tstat housing, and heater core were less than eight months/5000 miles old. Last summer I swapped out the engine, leaving on the water pump and tstat from the used donor motor. I'd have to check back, but I think I also used the "new" motor's sender. It still does it. It never smells or otherwise seems like it's overheating. The gauge moving doesn't even seem to coincide with the aux fan switching on/off. It's not relevant to the outside temperature (happens at 80F or -30F) or to a/c use. I'm beginning to suspect a sender or wiring issue, but until it actually starts overheating or the gauge becomes definitely erroneous, I've decided there are more important things to worry about.

By this do you mean the MJ and XJ don't use the same one?

I haven't seen any factory options that go there other than the fluid sentinel. And the clock of course.

When I swapped my motor out this summer, I threw down a couple sheets of 3/8" plywood to roll the hoist on. Worked out well enough, although it would have been nice to have more than two instead of constantly moving the floor around.

Trans mount should be identical to the XJ's, pending you get one for the correct transmission. With the exception of rear driveshaft length and the rear axle's spring perches, the drivetrains are identical between XJ and MJ. Engine, trans, tcase, crossmember, axle innards, everything. The fuel pump assembly (sending unit) is a tricky one. You see them occasionally on eBay. If you're lucky you might find one in a junkyard. There are a few companies out there who will rebuild one, but it's not cheap. The pump itself is going to be the same as the XJ with the identical engine, so you can get by without a gas gauge for a while, no? I have yet to not be able to find a part absolutely critical to driving my MJ. Some of the MJ-specific body panels, trim pieces, etc, maybe. But all the basic driveability parts except the rear driveshaft are shared with the XJ.

My parts truck is an XJ. :D

What have you found that isn't the same on the XJ? Everything from the doors forward is identical to four-door XJ's. Some stuff past that as well, but not much. Junkyards are good for most parts, and just about the only place you can most of the MJ-specific ones. You can also check out the classifieds here. eBay, Craigslist, etc work but you've got to keep a close eye if you're looking for specifics.

Lazy would have been using the rhd version. They went to the whole effort of designing a new face plate and flipping the fan speed switch.

Put your old steering wheel back on?

Been warm here too. Hit 15F today. Nearly hit freezing point the last couple days.

Snowshoed ten miles today. Where did all your snow go?

The track bar is what locates the axle left/right. The tie rod also pushes the front of the tires left/right to turn them. If there's less resistance in pushing the truck relative to the axle (i.e. shifting the axle or even the whole truck) than there is in rotating the tires, the whole axle will shift. Tl/dr yes, you should have your trackbar installed.

I pulled my drain plugs out a little way and have the best of both worlds. :doh: