gogmorgo

For posting pics to this forum?

Outta curiosity, what is this good source? Hope it works out for you.

I've used the imgur app to upload the pics, and then use the img tags like so: [img=www.url.com/img123.jpg]Only thing annoying about that is sometimes the imgur app is slow to upload, and then for whatever reason after I copy the url it won't paste directly into safari, I have to paste into a note and then copy it again before it'll paste into safari.

Did you check for trouble codes? http://comancheclub.com/topic/28111-reading-obdi-91-and-92-mj-fault-codes/ Seems almost like a throttle position sensor (tps) issue, but check your codes first. It's super easy, just turning the ignition key and counting flashes.

Drilling may work to get the bolts out, but you'd need a right-angle drill unless you take the bed off, as there's not much room to work. Alternatively, the nuts on the inside of the frame, if still factory, are only tacked on there, and will come off fairly easily with a long punch/chisel or better yet an air hammer. That does however mean you would need to fish some new bolts down there, or better yet make a backing plate with the right pattern and weld the nuts to that.

I'm ASSuming the 2-door and 4-door XJ's share the window regulator, but for most door-related things, the MJ's doors are identical to the '84-'96 4-door XJ's. Only exception I can think of is power window switches and wiring, where the MJ would use the 2-door XJ's stuff, and the MJ got towing mirrors that I don't think the XJ got. Also lock cylinders were updated around '91 for both the XJ and MJ.

That's a long thread with lots of arguing. Factory tow package on an MJ is rated at 5000lbs. ChryCo wouldn't have stuck that in the owner's manual if it wasn't repeatable or would cause the legal problems down the road. That's with an aw4, tranny cooler, d44, and a receiver hitch. Trailer brakes were probably on that list too. Bear in mind also that was with all new parts, but that your truck is 25 years old. Make sure all your suspension, drivetrain, and brakes are still in good condition. If you're looking to pull more than 5000lbs, horsepower won't be the solution to the problem. That number is based on far more of the package than just the engine. I've pulled a couple disabled cars at the end of a strap with my '91 300,000 mile 4.0/aw4 MJ. Last one was 4500 lbs. I wouldn't say there was a horsepower problem at all to get the mass moving. Obviously it was going to be a bit slower, but it wasn't painfully so. Even without an extra tranny cooler I wasn't noticing excess heat either. So would you need a v8 for towing? Absolutely not. But that doesn't mean it wouldn't be sweet to have. I would totally go for power in my MJ. I just need to get the brakes and suspension sorted out first.

That. All of it. On a gravel road I can carry 10-15% more speed through the corners and get back on the power much earlier in full-time than in part-time.I also use the 4x4 much more than I did with the 231. Higher failure rates due to greater component wear wouldn't surprise me at all. I'd say 80% of the last 1500 miles has been in full-time, whereas with the 231 I might have been in 4x4 for maybe 5-10% of that. I drive most of the same places for work as I do on my own time and hardly ever touch the 4x4 lever in my work truck which only has part-time, but my MJ is in full-time everywhere except the highway.

I want to say the DIY stuff was around $30 per can, although it might have been a two part process, meaning two $30 cans. I'll have to see what I can dig up.

I wouldn't worry too much about it. I'm sure people will figure it out. It's supposed to be nice this weekend, so hopefully my hitch finally goes on. Might even get up to 30f. I'll be sure to take pics.

Yeah, the long bed's rear spring hangers don't interfere with the bumper/hitch brackets. The 86 and some early 87 lwb owners might even be confused as to the need for the spacers, because the first runs of bumper brackets don't have the clearance bulge.

I've had issues in the past with header wraps. There were a bunch of other factors which lead to ridiculous exhaust temps, but basically a gap in the wrap lead to a hole melted through a firewall (that met the tech requirements of the racing series) and then into the gas tank (also met tech), which happened to be right behind the driver's seat. It... wasn't great. The incident was severe enough the series banned exhaust wrap, in favour of better solutions. You can get exhaust systems ceramic coated, which eliminates quite a bit of radiating heat. My team wound up getting it done commercially, but I've also seen off-the-shelf aerosols.

Five pin bowling is mostly a Canadian phenomenon I think. You've got a ball about the size of large grapefruit, and of course five pins, which are smaller than standard. Supposedly it's easier for kids, because of the smaller ball, but at the same time it can be more challenging because it's harder to hit the pins into each other. Maybe it's just Canadian weirdness. I mean, we can't play football properly either, right?

Yup. You can find them in stock at many parts stores. Otherwise, generally smoother operation. Coupled with my np242 transfer case's full-time, 4x4 is basically unnoticeable, no shakes or jerking no matter how hard I crank the steering wheel. Disadvantages are greater maintenance requirements, having to inspect the boot for cracks, and if something happens, you pretty well need to replace the whole shaft, whereas often a u-joint failure can be addressed without even pulling out the shaft. Mind you, I've never managed to catch a u-joint before the yoke was damaged beyond salvage... I've broken two under HIGH torque loads, and when the joint cracked it blew apart and the yokes smashed into each other. But if you catch it before it outright breaks or loses a cap, it's much cheaper to replace a u-joint than the entire cv shaft. I'm happy with the upgrade, but then I don't do any hardcore off-roading, and my MJ rarely sees anything that wasn't intended as a road at some point.

Only on the short wheel base. I left the hole on mine which is going onto a long wheelbase. Figure it might be useful for something some day, maybe.

Looks like you've already got your answer, but I've got a '93 XJ in the back yard with a mostly stripped front end, (no engine and very little suspension) so it would be super easy to get a pic or two of you still want or need.

This may seem weird, but up here, 10-pin bowling isn't very common. Everywhere is 5-pin. So the best I've done is about 200. It's tough to compare the two though. A perfect 5-pin game is 450, but supposedly it's more challenging, because there are fewer pins flying around, and no pin is in front of another. But good job. I'd be more than happy with a 299. :thumbsup:

OP's ZJ is a '96. Good info, though.

Did this just suddenly happen? Have you checked the bulbs? I've got a similar thing regarding the turn signal indicator staying on solid, just happened a week or so ago. But my front turn signal/parking lamp is burnt out on that side. Haven't got around to changing it yet due to the season. As for the dash lights not coming on, does anything happen at all when you turn the dimmer switch?

Does the right turn arrow come on when you turn on the parking/head lights? Check to make sure you've got the right bulbs front and rear, and that they work. Should be 2057's or 1157's. As for the rest of your dash lights, could be related to the turn signal, might not be. Did you make sure the dimmer switch isn't turned down, and that the fuse was good?

Mm. Right. Forgot about the 249. ZJ tie rod should be a bit beefier too.

Take the bumper off the brackets. You should be able to look into the end of the frame. You might even be able to do that with the bumper installed if you've got mad skills. The bumper brackets sit on the outside and bottom of the frame, but you should still be able to get at the the open end of the frame if you go from the inside/top, i.e. from between the bumper brackets. Edit:: Just went outside to take a pic to illustrate this, but was thwarted by the darkness and my camera's inability to white balance when it's dark and there's snow. But taking off your tailgate will be helpful for sure.

The ZJ rear axle will need perches welded on to work under the MJ. That's still going to be easier and/or cheaper to pay someone else than it would be to set up the ZJ's gears in the MJ's axle. Front should bolt in. I want to say it'll be low pinion, but that shouldn't be a huge problem unless you want to do serious off-roading, which doesn't seem to be the case. Your MJ will have 3.07 gearing. The 3.55's will be a noticeable upgrade. Engine should physically bolt in, although you'll probably need to reuse a bunch of the MJ's accessories. Also '96 was a bastard year between OBD1 and OBD2 in the XJ, don't know about the ZJ, but there might be sensor weirdness there. The trans won't be the AW4. By most accounts the ZJ trans isn't worth fixing. I don't think the 242 will bolt onto your ax15 (but I could be wrong). I've also heard but can't confirm it's got a viscous coupling instead of the XJ 242's differential which makes it less desirable, but otherwise my 242 was an excellent upgrade from the 231 in my '91. In my mind it actually makes the 4x4 useful in winter in more than just deep snow. The steering gearbox has a much quicker ratio and if it's still in good shape will make an excellent upgrade. The front away bar, again if it's in good shape, will also tighten up the handling. You can probably rob stereo parts and lightbulbs and stuff... Running out of things to think of. Wheels and tires? People use ZJ springs for lift?

And a good idea at that. I would have gladly paid the extra for that. I got my hitch painted but haven't had opportunity to put it on yet. I know I've got a few broken bolts to contend with, and I've had near as makes no difference -50F windchills in my "garage" the last couple weekends so I wasn't too keen on messing around with them. It's supposed to get up into the 20's this weekend so hopefully it'll finally happen... Got a small stack of parts piling up already.

The frame rails aren't the usual kind where it's a solid single piece, it's a couple layers of sheet metal pressed together. If you weld it on, you'll just stick it to the outer layer, which will want to tear off when you put load onto it. Not what you want. Also, given that the hitch sits over the bumper brackets, you'd be welding the bumper bracket to the frame, and then the hitch to the bumper bracket. I'd want both these things removable.