gogmorgo

The motor for sure, although some of the accessories might not be the same. The early ones had the same aw4 as the XJ/ MJ, (maybe '93 only?) and I think the front axle is the same. Lots of differences though, too. The ZJ was originally intended as the next generation of the XJ, and as a result, there's quite a few similarities and parts re-use, especially in the first couple years. I'd still look for XJ's first. More of a guarantee that everything will work.

Looks a lot like the Fey. Maybe they were different back then? It was fairly common back in the day for trucks to ship without rear bumpers, as they weren't required. Lots of dealers or the first owner would either add a custom or aftermarket bumper as a cheaper alternative to the factory bumper, or else just leave it off. The Fey bumpers are pretty common. I've also seen a few dealer-installed tube bumpers. So yours could be the "original" bumper to the truck, but still not be a factory bumper.

Go back to each post, hit edit (lower right corner), remove the old broken pic(s), and put the proper one(s) in. Can't guarantee it's the exact reason, but occasionally image hosts modify their directory paths a bit, so the url changes. More often than not when that's the case, you can figure out how they changed the url and use the text-based editor (for the post) to change them all directly without having to look up each if the pics.

There should be one bolt going into the bottom, four in the side. Can you post a pic of the whole bumper? Doesn't look stock, especially not with a sticker like that, if it reflects actual load ratings on the bumper hitch. Those aren't the Fey numbers, either, so I'm wondering what it is?

XJ's in general are good donors, although each should be evaluated on a case-by-case basis as with any used car. I'm biased towards the 91-95, but that's just me. I think I would look at ZJ's next for drivetrain components, but XJ's will be best for bolt-on body panels and interior pieces. I picked up a complete running driving '93 XJ this summer for $300 this summer as a donor for my MJ, although I mostly wanted the drivetrain, as the rest of it is a bit rough, but at that price it's to be expected.

Growing up in southern Toba/Sask, I don't need to use google to find long straight sections of road... There's a highway nearby with only a small kink in it, otherwise it would be straight as an arrow for 50 miles at least.

It's funny. Sure, my MJ has it's share of rattles and vibrations, and never really seemed happy about doing 70 mph, but faster than that and they seemed to go away. By 85 mph, it was almost like piloting a cloud... Although thinking about it now probably it was just me going into sensory overload due to the air noise. Judging by that pic, there were at least still some bumps. But my memory of it is still everything being a lot more stable than other not-intended-for-speed vehicles I'd done it in at the time.

Forgot that.^^^ When my tps went, the first clue was that my aw4 was shifting as though I had the skinny pedal firmly against the floor. It did shift, but only after sitting on the rev limiter for a bit.

It's not easy keeping a camera steady at that speed. That's indicating about 185km/h, or 115mph. Stock '91 4.0 4x4, with ~300,000 miles. I didn't have a GPS device at the time to confirm that speed, but based on what I know now about my soeedometer's calibration, I'd have to say it's more likely that it topped out around 170km/h, ~105mph. It's not easy getting up to those speeds with an automatic, because if you push the pedal down too far it kicks down into third and then you bang into the rev limiter and lose speed. I'd imagine it would take a while, but could still be done on 35's with the proper gearing. It would definitely be easier with a manual that stays in high gear with the pedal to the floor. I have however grown up a little since taking that picture. I'm no longer particularly proud of the speeds I reached on public roads or of how often I reached them. I'm also convinced it contributed significantly to the failure of the original 4.0, being driven that hard.

Any 4.0 out of an MJ, XJ, YJ, or ZJ (but not the 4.0 from the WJ or TJ) will bolt in, but it'll be less work to use an '87 to '90. Cruiser's got a tip for the HO ('91-'95) into a Renix. OBD2 ('96+) gets more complex.

The MJ doors are the same as the pre-96 4-door XJ front doors.

Materials defect? Could also have been damaged in handling, gotten a small tear in it by kinking or contact that quickly wore through. Doesn't take much. Something under that much pressure either holds it or it doesn't... once it starts leaking it blows itself right out.

There are a couple others threads about similar issues from this week. Worth a read.

That right there might be the winner! Been there, done that. It works, but it's not very polished.

This is my concern as well, the rear windows just look awkward. I'm not sure what exactly your proposed solution is (take the small pane, flip it horizontally and put it in front of the window in the rear door?) or how it would look. But I'm wondering about just putting the main section of the front door's window in there and leaving it like that. I'm almost inspired to get photoshop just to mess around with this stuff... In real life, if tge leading edges of the two windows match, it should be easy to combine the two doors. I also like the longer 2-door XJ look as above. Best looking example I've seen so far for an extended cab.

A lightbulb and some wire can replicate a test light. Well, I say replicate, but that's really all a test light is, lightbulb, wire, and a fancy holder. But it will be very useful in the future. I'm just guessing but based on wire colours I would guess that the black one is ground, the red is 12v constant, and the striped one is the switch. But that's just a guess. I'm not at home or I'd look up a diagram for you.

You have a volt meter or test light? Pretty easy to check. One will have constant power, that's the 12v feed. One will have power only when the door is open or the dash switch is turned on, that's the door one. The other will have continuity to ground, that's the ground wire.

Renix definitely. I've seen a couple members say they've had problems swapping between years, but can't really confirm that it is or isn't a problem.

The two styles of factory bumper brackets are effectively the same. One just has a bulge to accommodate the rear spring hanger on a short bed. The bolt holes are identical. Will the Fey bumper mount to them? That I can't say.

With the proper know-how, it would be pretty easy to set it up for fairly cheap. If you're not into analogue electronics, an Arduino could do it, probably even for less than the cost of a new tcu (if such a thing still exists) But you'd somehow still have to reference throttle position somehow to get the proper kick-down behaviour... Might be able to tap into the tps. You could even work in your own shift map, set multiple maps depending on some kind of input (say power/comfort switch)... Of course there are also a few aftermarket controllers available. I've tossed this idea around a bit, but never had much of a reason to actually do it.

But is it wheeling with tracks?

Are you certain the a/c is factory? Pretty common as a dealer add-on. It's also not uncommon for an alternator to be relocated for better water fording ability.

Figured that's what it was :thumbsup:

Picture time. The wood grain dash, which in hindsight I'm not 100% certain came from a waggy, but it was a few years ago that I pulled it at a yard. But it matches the door panels. There were matching panels in the XJ I got it from, but didn't get them because they were tan, not grey. The power-window door panel from the XJ Country on my manual-window door. And a close-up of where the winder pokes through the panel. I put a dab of grease on the winder shaft to mark where it hit the panel when I put it back on, and used a sharp utility knife to cut out a roughly 1/2 to 3/4" circle centred on the mark.

Your link opens up this same thread just in a new tab, at least on my phone...