gogmorgo

Getting the AW4 to play nice with your Renix may be tricky. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1053970

Do you know how much lift that is, and the tire size? Looks just about perfect. Any rubbing?

The timing mark on the Dorman HB can be hard to spot. Just a little nick in the rim.

Now there's an idea. Putting it on the list of things to maybe think about doing eventually.

It's not the starting I'm concerned about, I know it'll do that. It's having something lubricating it for the first few seconds of running for every single start between October and April... 10w30 isn't horrendous with a block heater, but 15w40 is pushing it.

Haven't found the chevron up here yet, but if I could I'd run it for the summer. 15w40 isn't going to hack it up here in the winter... Couple days this week have been just above -30F in the morning.

Rotella T 5w40 right now. In summer 10W40. If the new(to my MJ) motor didn't burn as much as it does (waaaaay more than the last motor) I'd be running the T5. I ran 5w30 year-round in the old motor, and watched the oil pressure decrease until a severe bottom end knock developped. The two may not have been entirely related, but I don't care for it to happen again. Mind you, a $300 XJ is only six or so oil changes...

:dunno: Don't blame the Canadians for that one. The metric-speaking countries outside of North America are a much larger market than humble Canada. At the time, most Canadian-spec cars from US manufacturers had oil pressure gauges in kPa, and also speedometers that only went to 140km/hr, which is a hair over 85mph. The rest of the metric-speaking world enjoyed gauges that somewhat reflected a vehicle's top speed, and used bar for just about everything automotive. The French have always been a bit laissez-faire with their numbers. I blame Renault, and cite my speedometer that goes to 120mph and the ridiculous oil pressure gauge as evidence. But we're getting kinda off topic. My parents neglected their old Chevy van pretty badly, like possibly 50,000+km and 5+ years between oil changes. (i was too young to know better). By the time I was old enough to be driving it frequently, the pressure gauge on it (in kPa) would pin itself to the top the way 91pioneer describes, and generally be kinda high. That beast kept trucking until it was almost 30 years old with an estimated 450,000km on it (the odometer quit working somewhere around 350k) when the timing chain skipped and a mechanic finally convinced my parents to get rid of it. Sure, it burnt and/or oozed a crap ton of oil, but beyond that I don't think the increased pressure really did much harm to it. As far as actual solutions to the problem, I seem to remember mentioning it to a mechanically-inclined individual or two, and blow-by and crankcase ventilation come to mind as possible causes, but we're talking over eight years ago now.

Okay, it's just a 3. My recall was aided by this photo, And I ASSumed there was a digit hiding behind the needle (2.3 seemed more likely than 3.3), but it's just a three. Ran out and confirmed. For reference, that photo was taken at idle. My best guess for them using bar is so they aren't cramming digits onto the gauge.

Took me forever to figure out what the hell the numbers were on my oil pressure gauge. It goes from zero to 5.4, and the halfway mark is 2.3 if memory serves. Those numbers are meaningless to me, even knowing they're in bar, so I stopped paying attention to them. Needle pointing straight up while driving is good, needle ever pointing at less than quarter is bad. I think that's based on a conversion I did to psi and what pressures should be according to one of Eagle's posts from around the time I joined CC.

You should look into upgrading your headlight harness. Many people (myself included) have found out about that burnt wire on the switch connector when it sets things on fire... Basically the switch and wires just barely support the full load from the headlights, so as things age and corrode, eventually it overloads and overheats. The upgrade harness is a supplemental harness (you plug it into the existing one) and it uses relays to take the load off the switch. The existing wiring is used to trigger the relays, so all your lights and switches retain their functions. You can get them commercially for $30 or so, or you can make your own. Installation takes a half-hour. Not only does it decrease the chances of your rig catching fire, you'll also notice an increase in headlight output.

I'd rather see a truck based on the Grand. Especially now they've confirmed the Hellcat. http://truckyeah.jalopnik.com/707-horsepower-jeep-grand-cherokee-hellcat-confirmed-fo-1752509004

Sorry for not getting back sooner, forgot I had curling tonight. https://skydrive.live.com/embed?cid=DB29AEECD6176EB4&resid=DB29AEECD6176EB4!7603&authkey=AOnZxW_3TJTtnPY This is a bunch of useful stuff, courtesy of Blue88comanche. There's a wiring diagram in there I promise. The wire colours may not be completely accurate, depending on what year your MJ is (the manuals are for 88) but the light circuits should still be the same. I've used them countless times for my '91.

Sounds like you've got a short somewhere. With a good fuse in there, do the lights come on ever? Is there some combination of things that triggers the fuse blowing (i.e. hitting the turn signal with the headlights on,)? Any other electrical issues (even if you don't think they'd affect the lights, you never know)? When you replaced the headlight switch, did the wiring connector look melted? If I could direct you to a circuit diagram, would that be helpful?

Okay, so then you'll have to do it the old fashioned way, how I do it on my iphone. Take that url, and make it look like this: [img] Notice I just added "img" and "/img" but in square brackets instead of quotes at the front and back of the url. Should turn out like this:

No. You need to put those links into the dialogue box that opens when you hit the image button. http://comancheclub.com/topic/37727-how-to-post-pictures

Can you take a picture? Lots of round looking parts inside the column... You remove the turn signal lever by pulling it straight out, like popping a beater out of an electric mixer. The lever has about an inch long shaft with a groove or two in it. It clicks into the column. I'm going to ASSume the round thing you're talking about is what the lever sits in. If so, I'm pretty sure it's part of the switch. My guess is if the lever snapped clean off, instead of breaking in the middle, it actually broke off part of the switch inside, which is why you can't find it. I've got a complete column in my basement if you need a pic to illustrate what I'm talking about. Don't know how far I want to disassemble it, (to look at switches inside) but popping out the lever is nothing.

The skis give it away. It's his winter beater.

Well, my quest to find this stuff had failed, but I think I've made a decision to park it until the snow melts. So the night before last my roommate didn't plug her 2012 Mazda in properly, so she had trouble starting it yesterday morning. It didn't really want to crank, and then when it did catch it stalled a couple times. So I laughed at her, and bet her that the Lada would start better, even though it had sat with the block heater unplugged for three weeks. It was -34 when this happened. So at first it cranked pretty slowly, but then it sped up, fired and idled for about fifteen seconds. Then it backfired, died, and I couldn't get it to fire after that. I hooked jumper cables up to the MJ, but when I popped the hood on the Niva, I noticed a nice stream of fuel running out the bottom of the throttle body. Oops It looks like it's just a bad gasket (I.e huge vacuum leak) but I'll wait till it warms up a bit outside before pulling it apart to find out.

Good old EG mixed 2:1 with distilled water. Don't always want to pay the extra for a name brand for one reason or another, but usually I get Prestone. 2:1 keeps it liquid down below -45, which is necessary in my climate. Haven't noticed any problems running that blend in the summer, but if it didn't get so cold, I'd mix it 1:1. As for not wanting to change coolant every two years, so far I've found some reason to have to dump it every year or so anyhow...

Cords definitely exist. Check eBay for a USB to obd2 cable. Software also exists, from cheap (possibly free) programs that are just your basic scan tool, right up to thousand-dollar professional tuning software. Some of the cords on eBay include basic software.

Well, when someone says they went a certain speed, and someone else calls it impossible, suddenly the top speed possible becomes relevant. A couple of us younger and foolisher types have actually managed to get them to where they won't go faster. I think that's about top speed, yes? Mine would go no faster than what I believe to be about 105 mph, (educated guess based on known speedometer error and indicated speed) but that was before I was able to gps verify it. I'm not going to do it again... I have no interest in swapping out another motor until I have my stroker built.

Can't speak for the Renix, as I don't know what's in the relay block (or even if there is one) but I've started my HO using jumper wires from the battery to the ignition and starter relays in the main relay block. Check for spark by sticking a screwdriver into the end of a spark plug wire and holding the shaft 1/8" or so away from a bare metal surface that connects to ground, like a head bolt or something. You should be able to see it spark while a helper attempts to start the engine. It's easier to see the spark in the dark, of course. You can also do this for the coil wire to check the coil.

^^That. Mine wasn't going to throw me off the road or anything. It just didn't seem particularly happy to be doing 75mph. It also seemed to get better after that.

Nice dash bezel. :thumbsup: