gogmorgo

So this is what I'm talking about. From the front: The lower one is the tv cable. The other two attaching on opposite side of the same point are the throttle cable and cruise control. And from above, (the top of the picture is towards the front of the truck. Top is throttle valve, and the other two are the throttle cable and cruise control. It's set up to move opposite the throttle cable, by that I mean that as the throttle cable pulls the throttle open, the throttle cable retracts into the sheath, but it pulls the tv cable out of its sheath, and when the throttle is closed, the throttle cable extends but the tv cable retracts. Looks like the throttle "arm" could be different between manual and automatic, just not having that extra cable attachment point for the tv cable. Beyond the Renix/HO difference of course.

Easiest way to find out is to swap it with a known good one. Best bet is one that matches your transmission's year. They don't go bad all that often, but that would make it seem to be a problem, yes.

This is indeed the way the transmission behaves when the tcu is unplugged and/or the trans fuse is removed/blown. I would look at the fuse first, and then the connections, like you're doing. Also check the wiring under the truck and in the engine bay, trans connector are near the trans dipstick. Make sure the wiring's ok before dicking with solenoids or the torque converter. Pretty sure if a solenoid went bad that it wouldn't shift at all.

Any engine can handle nos. it's just a question of how much and for how long. (That's what she said) Universal DIY kits exist with everything you need. Summit racing, Jegs, eBay... Do a google. When you blow it up, sell it to another member on here, don't just scrap it... :thumbsup:

I'm ASSuming everything is similar to my '91 4.0/AW4, so can't confirm accuracy. But here goes. 1. Can't comment 2. The linkage pivots are ball-and-socket joints. I've used sturdy screwdrivers and/or needle-nose players and/or trim fastener removal tools (whatever was handy...) to pop them apart. A good squeeze with channel locks pops them back together. The pivot that mounts to the body, though, is another animal. I've usually undone the bushing bolts and let the rod fall out as I dropped the trans, since the bracket bolts welded themselves to the trans tunnel. This makes an extra consideration when putting the trans back in, but if you don't have to adjust the linkage after pulling everything, all the better in my mind. 3. You should be able to find several write-ups for the trans removal to help with this. In addition to the two top e12's, there are two bolts at ~9 and 3 positions. I want to say 15mm but memory's fuzzy, they could be bigger, but they should be regular hex bolts. There should also be a couple dowel pins in there. This ASSumes you're pulling the bellhousing off the engine, not the trans. 4. If you're using a trans jack with adjustment, make sure you figure out how it works and that you get the trans on it the right direction... it sucks getting it all set together only to discover all your adjustment's in the wrong direction. You don't need a special jack for the job, although it makes it easier to get things lined up than just a floor jack would, and it's a lot of weight to support with one hand while you're fiddling with bolts in the other. Expect the job to take three times as long as your worst-case scenario, it's not hugely difficult, just a steep learning curve. It was much easier the second time I did it. Hopefully I've helped, and maybe someone with ba-10 experience can chime in.

Can't guarantee the Renix setup will be the same, but the HO one attaches to the same pivot as the throttle cable. There are three on there, the throttle cable, the cruise control, and the throttle valve. The cables are held by a bracket that bolts to the intake. I'll snap a pic tomorrow if I remember while there's daylight.

His responsibility to make sure it works for his application, no?

I used the electric window panels with my crank window doors, just cut a small hole in the panel for the winder. The trim and everything from my old winders worked great, and covered up any rough edges. I'm a few days away from my MJ, but I'll post up pics when I get home if you want.

I would talk to whoever rebuilt your head first, before seeking legal means.

I suppose a bit could have happened since then, given age, but the wood-grained dash bezel I pulled from an '86 waggy with a tan interior at a jy is a perfect match for the wood grain on the grey door panels from the '93 country I picked up this summer. Not that this answers the op's question at all...

Couple other things that strike me as odd are that it's sitting on turbines instead of the Elim's ten-holes, and also that the grill was redesigned for '91 so it can't be flipped upside down. Doesn't mean much, I suppose, could be a good reason for it all, but just a little funny when you start putting it all together. But still a solid truck :thumbsup:

Per the owner's manual, you can shift between high ranges (2wd, 4hi part-time, or 4hi full-time if equipped) "at any legal speed". For shifting into or out of neutral or low-range, it recommends the trans is in neutral and vehicle speed is below 3mph.

I find that the "shift at any speed" doesn't always work that great. Typically there will be a bit of binding that prevents the gears from engaging or releasing. Lifting off the throttle is usually enough, but sometimes I've had to shift to neutral and/or roll to a stop as well to get it to shift. It's normal. So long as it engages.

You've got the right url, but you want to use this button. Alternatively, if you're on a platform that doesn't support the above interface, use the format [ img ] www.url.com/xxx.jpg [ / img ] without spaces.

You could probably rig something up off an old 4.2, but why? It's a step backwards. Several, depending on who you ask.

^^^that. Not sure you understand. The frame is part of the body. You can't separate the two without striping pretty well everything and drilling out thousands of spot welds. There's no convenient one-piece subframe or anything. Lifting the body off the drivetrain is going to be lifting the entire vehicle minus whatever you pull off. Better have a LOT of friends is right. This summer, I swapped a 4.0 with trans and tcase as a unit from an XJ into my MJ in my back yard. That's grass beside a gravel driveway. I threw down a few sheets of 3/8 plywood to make myself a dancefloor and got to work with a cheap harbour freight-type cherry picker. Sure it was a pain rolling around that much weight by myself without a level floor, but way less of a pita than lifting the vehicle off everything. Also, I had to change a hydrostat in a skid steer at work this summer. Most awkward thing I've ever done, there's nowhere to sit or stand or anything. But it was still less awkward than what you're planning.

Yup. So long as the electrical switch goes into the tcase.

No. 2002 isn't an XJ/MJ.

First thing check your codes. The only tool required is your ignition key. http://comancheclub.com/topic/28111-reading-obdi-91-and-92-mj-fault-codes/ When you say it's not shifting to 2nd, (I'm assuming it's an automatic here, sorry if it's in your signature, can't see it on my phone) do you mean it seems like it's revving right out in first and not shifting or skipping 2nd? What happens when you try to select lower ratios? Have you disconnected the trans computer to see how it acts? When you replaced the fuel rail, did you check to make sure you plugged in all the electrical and vacuum connections? When you replaced the brakes, if you touched the booster/master cylinder, did you bump any vacuum lines? Assuming again you've got an automatic, you've got an AW4 transmission. Don't worry about replacement until you've figured out what your problem is. General tip, if you want specific answers, you need to ask specific questions, and provide as much specific detail. Good grammar and proper punctuation helps as well.

It's been done. Google should pull up a few write-ups. It's the same as doing it in an XJ. The firewall and radiator supports will need modification.

Are you looking for a lift? If that's the case, yeah, you are having a fart. Blocks will lower a spring-under setup. Or is that your goal?

I always support keeping the MJ alive, however whether or not the rolling chassis has a good title would be the clincher for me. Depending on where you are, getting it retitled could be pretty difficult.

Depends on the add-a-leaf. A longer shackle would give you some lift, although I don't know if it's recommended to go that high with only shackles. A 2" Chevy drop shackle will lift the MJ 2", and is pretty commonly done as part of a budget boost. Shouldn't be too hard to find an extra 1.5" in an add-a-leaf. Usually, however, given that there are vastly more options for lift in the front (since it's the same as an XJ) it's usually recommended to set up the rear lift first, and then figure out how much lift you'll need in the front to level it out.

Well, it's a spray bomb... I totally forgot about this. My mind is a sieve. Lol. I think I remember seeing cans like that. I'm on a road trip right now (currently in kamloops) so I'll have to keep my eyes out for a Hh.

Gotta watch with those circulating heaters. Some of the pumps operate as check valves, so if you hook them up backwards you'll get great heat, until you turn on the engine. The regular block heater still won't put out enough heat to warm the engine up in one mile. May not even get the coolant up above freezing from 0f, but I'd have to look back at the charts. (The studies everyone cites were done at my university, and the results are proudly on display). Two hours is where the heating slows down, and it'll climb a bit after that, but not much past the four-hour point. Something else to keep in mind is blasting the defroster on high heat onto a cold windshield is a good way to crack it...