steering wheel play

[dwa175]

1990 mj  steering wheel play,truck is hard to drive straight,local shop said it needs lower control arms,note moved to fla from conn have to garage to help and I do not have my shop anymore,any help here. oringal mj 159000 miles,i servived this truck since new,has been no front end parts problems    dwa 175.

[Dzimm]

Can you describe the play more?  Is it rotational play like you turn the wheel and the Jeep stays straight until the wheel is really turned?  Does the whole wheel move if you move it laterally in any direction?  

 

I find it hard to believe lower control arms would affect steering wheel play.

[thecodemonk]

A bit more detail on the truck would be nice too...is it lifted with wider tires?  Depending on the tire, the grooves in the road can throw you around on the highway (especially if the highways are deeply rutted).  Is the steering linkage stock or aftermarket?  (some after market designs end up with tie-rod roll after a truck is lifted, which can lead to play)

 

While it's possible LCA bushings being shot could affect steering play, but you'd normally hear clunking and other things from that.  

 

Also, you should be able to easily verify that yourself by jacking up the truck in the air (using non-harbor freight jackstands :) ) and checking for play by pushing/pulling on the front axle or LCA.

 

 

[omega_rugal]

9 hours ago, dwa175 said:

steering wheel play,truck is hard to drive straight

 

how much of a turn it takes to feel that the wheels are turning?

 

you have some loose components but lower arms? sounds like BS...

[75sv1]

I'd go with play in the steering gear box, tie rod ends worn and or trackbar. If you ever driven with out the trackbar attached, it real fun. Also, I'd check that the steering gear box is properly attached to the frame. I'd replace the stock aluminum spacer with an aftermarket steel one. Also, could be hub bearings. But you'd probably hear some noise from them. 

[AZJeff]

The most commonly recommended course of action here for ANY reports of wandering is to do a thorough examination from underneath the vehicle.   This requires a helper to do it well, and here is the method:

 

Have the helper sit in the vehicle, with the steering column unlocked.  His/her job is to turn the steering wheel back and forth JUST ENOUGH to load all the steering linkage to the point where the wheels are starting to move off of center.

 

While they are doing that, you are lying under the vehicle and doing a visual examination of every joint or fitting in the entire suspension.  A flashlight helps to see motion between the two parts of the joint.   Also, any rubber joints that look dried out/cracked and distorted are targets for replacement, regardless of relative motion.

 

I also like placing my hand around the steering linkage joints.  Don't use a death grip around the two parts, but be firm enough that you can feel relative motion between the two parts of the joint.

[Eagle]

Off all the things that might cause loose, wandering steering, control arms is among the things that I would not even put on the list. You need a different shop.

 

 

[Warren Mohler]

Track bar

[AZJeff]

I agree with Eagle.  I am betting other parts are FAR more likely to be the cause of your issue before control arms and their bushings.

[Eagle]

First up is track bar, then tie rod ends, then drag link, then steering box adjustment ... and sliding in for last place is ball joints. Control arms for wandering steering? Nope.

 

[MontanaManche]

if it feels like the column itself is loose and bouncy you could check out this video from nickintimefilms. he goes really in depth on how to fix it ive seen some of the stuff he does he is really smart with old renix xj's and mj's.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RQ-koHkpECI

 

[87MJTIM]

I was having problems with wandering and slow responsive steering.  I did all the above checks: had someone turn the steering wheel while I got down under the truck and checked/felt all the steering connections.  Couldn't find anything loose.

 

Took it to my mechanic.  The problem was between the gear box and the steering wheel.  Turned out that the steering shaft u-joint was wearing out.  He was surprised.  Those things very seldom wear out, but it is 30+ yrs. old.

[Eagle]

Here's an insider tip from an olde pharte who remembers what steering was like in the days before everyone had power steering. For reference, the steering box ratio for the XJ and MJ (with power) is 14:1. In the old days of AMC, the standard manual steering ratio for the Javelin and AMX was 20:1, the optional QRM (Quick Ratio Manual) was 16:1, and the power steering was a variable ratio that went from 17:1 to ... something. (It was horrible).

 

The thing was that, with manual steering, even the slower 20:1 ratio (which gave more advantage to the driver), you could not turn the front wheels unless the car was rolling. It didn't have to be rolling fast, but it had to be rolling. Now, with power steering, it's easy to just crank the wheels lock to lock while the vehicle sits still. Well, guess what? That puts a TREMENDOUS strain on the entire steering linkage -- the steering box itself, the tie rod ends, the drag link, the steering column u-joint, even the ball joints. So, if you want to keep your steering tight as long as possible, DON'T crank the steering wheel unless your vehicle is rolling.

 

The original track bar in my '88 XJ lasted something like 200,000 miles -- and the '88 didn't have a grease fitting. By contrast, the track bar in my late wife's 2000 XJ lasted about 80,000 miles. But my wife was from the "crank it before you move it" school of driving.

 

Take it for what it's worth. The '88 XJ is now approaching 300,000 miles (if I ever get to replace the leaking injectors). It has a replacement track bar, but the tie rods ends and ball joints are all still original.

 

[omega_rugal]

3 hours ago, Eagle said:

DON'T crank the steering wheel unless your vehicle is rolling.

 

before power steering most people couldnt do it, required a lot of upper body strenght... but is soemwhat inevitable when for instance, you are getting in or out a tight parking space

[JIMMYRIG]

I’m having this issue now with my 89. I backed out of a tight spot and had the wheel cranked all the way. Then heard a loud explosion. The best way I could describe the noise was like my tire popped all of the sudden. I got out and did a check under and around the truck and didn’t see anything out of the ordinary. I later found the plastic liner in the passenger side front wheel was hanging loose and cracked. I was hoping it was just that but I’m starting to notice a lot of play in the steering since it happened and I’m now thinking they’re likely related. Anyone know if there’s anything in the steering system that could’ve just exploded like that? I thought maybe the hydro assist exploded from pressure since I was cranked all the way. Maybe there’s been an underlying issue causing steering play and the hydro assist was keeping everything a little straighter and more aligned? Any help is appreciated.

[Salvagedcircuit]

It could be the steering gearbox bracket / spacer. For some reason, the triangular shaped bracket is a thin cross section cast part. When cast iron fails it usually creates a fatigue line and then snaps. Sometimes it releases stored energy and makes noise.

Here's the direct link to what I'm talking about:

 

[Classy Comanche]

So a while back I had my jeep serviced since if I turned left or right it would pop loudly, loud enough that it is very clearly heard even outside the vehicle clear as day. So it turned out my track bar was shot. I also had about 5-10° of play in the wheel but would turn. After that it has absolutely none but but pops very quietly now to where it only does it rarely/softly. I would almost wonder if that popped off or maybe if your drag link went? [Those are wild guesses. I am not mechanically inclined.] 

[JIMMYRIG]

Okay I’ll take a look at the steering box and then maybe take it to someone and see if it’s the track bar. I have like 90+ degrees of play and it’s making it really difficult to drive. Thanks for the pointers 

[rokinn]

90+ degrees of play means something is seriously wrong and you shouldn't be driving it if you value living.  I'd be looking at steering gear as first on the list given your description but could be other components as well.  If you have to take it to a shop have it towed there.  Otherwise start looking for what might be broken.  I was inches from going in the river when the tie rod on my grandfather's old jeep pickup broke.  A little too close for comfort as they say.

[Eagle_SX4]

I had something similar happen when backing out of a parking lot. The cause of mine was 2 of the 3 bolts for the steering gear box had fallen out and the third one finally snapped when I turned the wheel. Thankfully it happened in a parking lot and not on the road. Check the steering gear box mounts.

[AZJeff]

In addition to the actual steering box mounting bolts, check for CRACKS in the "frame" where the box attaches.  When guys add larger wheels/tires to an MJ/XJ, the strain put on the mounting location of the frame can increase substantially when the steering wheel is moved while the vehicle is stationary.   This can lead to cracks in the boxed sheet metal structure that forms the "frame" in that part of the vehicle.

 

You will probably need a flashlight and a helper to do a good inspection.  Have someone turn the wheel just enough to apply a load to the steering box and steering linkage, and while he/she is doing that, look around for motion between the box and the "frame" (and any steering linkage parts as well, of course.)