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Wrenches Gone Wild!!!


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Been REALLY enjoying this build and I'm looking forward to seeing the finished product. jamminz.gif

 

As many others have noted before, what you've done to your Comanche is something most of us dream of doing to our trucks. Keep up the Excellent work mate and cheers from another Comanche nut in Finland. ;)

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Thanks again to all the great comments. I really wish I could stay on track with this. I haven't done to much as far as progress but have picked up a few things.

A slightly used Currie crossmember.

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Front brush guard. It had the sides for the lights but I'm thinking of just using the center as the sides are a little tweaked.

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Also picked up a front diff guard. Managed to clean it up, paint, and install it.

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The liked the lighting on that pic. It's really all black under there. I'm hoping this weekend I'll make some real progress.

:cheers:

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man, what a fantastic job. I just used the Purple Power and some pressure to do my underhood, and put the engine back in -- I feel ashamed! LOL

 

 

You put in all new hard lines...supplier? Did you do all the bends/unions yourself??

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man, what a fantastic job. I just used the Purple Power and some pressure to do my underhood, and put the engine back in -- I feel ashamed! LOL

 

 

You put in all new hard lines...supplier? Did you do all the bends/unions yourself??

 

Nothing new, just cleaned up the old. Took either 400 or 600 grit to them. Just enough to get the old undercoating overspray and grime off.

 

Purple Power is the greatest stuff since sliced bread. I just picked up 2 gallons on sale at Advanced. :brows:

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Is that just the pic or is your bolt on the upper control arm not tightened down? :eek:

 

Yep, and if you look closer, the nut is not on the bottom either.

 

I'm in the process of changing them all out with newer style bolts. The ones in there are pretty rough looking on the threads. I'll still only put the new ones in a little snug until the motor and tranny get back in. Then all will be torqued to spec's. ;)

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
I love this build and was wondering if there are any updates.

 

Nothing really exciting here lately. Been busy with other things and when I do get some time working on it, something that should take a few hours, turns out to a few days/weeks. Will be re-focusing the plan and getting things going again. I'm still picking up parts for it here and there. New project goal is to finish before Christmas.

 

:cheers:

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why are you removing the rear window?

 

Two reasons, one there is a small dent where something slid forward in the bed. It's still functional, but I have to pull it to fix the dent under the window.

 

 

and two, I'm stealing this idea from someone that posted it up on here.

 

http://www.crlaurence.com/ProductPages/ ... ml?Origin=

http://www.trucknvans.com/Truck_T_Slide ... _s/815.htm

 

Looking at the POWR version. :drool:

 

You might want to check on that to be certain that it exists. I was told that only the three-glass manual slider is really all that they sell in spite of what the website states.

 

Also, BEWARE of aftermarket sliders. I ordered a new 4-glass aftermarket slider off of e-Bay (not certain, but it might have been the same aftermarket company) and it turned out to be crap. The contours did not fit the natural contour of the Comanche's sloped jam...sort of like your experience with the parts from RRO. I cannot speak for the three-glass model, but the sliders on the four-glass model that I purchased from e-Bay were very loose and wobbley when they were open...not a good part at all.

 

Don't discard your factory slider until you know for certain that the aftermarket slider fits as well or better than your OEM part. I am very thankful that I did not trash mine before learning that the aftermarket slider was garbage. I ended up ordering a new OEM rear window seal and re-installing the original slider.

 

Please keep us informed if your aftermarket slider is of a quality make. Also, your rebuild is awesome! I am proud to know that you reside here in the Commonwealth! jamminz.gif

 

Sic Semper Tyrannis!

 

CC

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  • 3 weeks later...

 

 

You might want to check on that to be certain that it exists. I was told that only the three-glass manual slider is really all that they sell in spite of what the website states.


Yeah, they stop making them, however I have a glass guy searching the country for one on a dusty shelf. :brows:

 

Don't discard your factory slider until you know for certain that the aftermarket slider fits as well or better than your OEM part. I am very thankful that I did not trash mine before learning that the aftermarket slider was garbage. I ended up ordering a new OEM rear window seal and re-installing the original slider.


Too late. I sold it to a CC member. ;)

 

Please keep us informed if your aftermarket slider is of a quality make. Also, your rebuild is awesome! I am proud to know that you reside here in the Commonwealth! jamminz.gif

Sic Semper Tyrannis!


You can count on it and thanks. Hoorah :thumbsup:



Well have been laid up recovering from surgery and can't do any real wrenching. Thought I'd put the doors back together and do a little part painting. Got the handles and vent cover done.

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Went to work on the doors. Pulled the regulators back out and figured I'd do a little sound deading. Looked at all the professional alternatives and didn't like the price, sooo, off to Lowes. Pick up some foil type insulation. It's about a 1/4 inch thick. Basically two pieces of foil with a piece of bubble wrap sandwiched in between.

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It provides a R4-6 rating, is fire retardant, is light weight and flexible, and a lot cheaper than the professional stuff. Should prevent some road noise and help with the speakers acoustics. Plus heating and cooling benefits. biggrin.png

Used adhesive spray to install and aluminum duct tape for any joints.

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And here's the results.

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Since I had the regulators out, I figured I'd check the coils for the infamous rust. Yep, it's there. :headpop:

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Well that pretty much stopped the progress. It's off to the JY to find some better ones. I did manage to finally get the window trim painted from the 97+ mirror mod. It only took 3 different kinds of paint and 6 coats to get a finish I could live with however I won't put them on until the new regulators are in.
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agreed with the professional stuff is pricey now that was a good find what made you decide to go lowe's for the insulation :hmm: . I was looking for something like foil you have found to keep the out side noise down and insulation to the cab. the question i have now what about water vapor between the insulation and the exterior door. i believe MC Hammer said it right when it comes to the work that you have put into this build "You can't Touch This" :cheers:

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Well after looking at different products on the market, it just made since that all the sound deading material is basically a form of insulation. True it is constructed differently and more science is involved. I had read on a couple of other forums where some people have used a product called fire and ice, which is a type of underlayment used in roofing. That's how I ended up at Lowes to check it out. At about $60 a roll and the fact that it is a petroleum base product, I steered away from it. It smells like tarpaper as well. I then wondered the store the way most men do when shopping for something and came across what I used. Here's a link. At $26 for all I would need and the fact I can use it around the house, sold me on it.

 

Far as moisture. I had the same concerns. The 3M adhesive I used is great stuff. I made sure I had as close to 100% coverage on the foil and as much as I could reach on the inside of the door before sticking it on and pressed the crap out of it to hopefully make it gap/air pocket free. The tape on the seams is added protection and seeing how it is meant for heating and ac ducts, it should hold up to heat and moisture. I will check it from time to time to see how it is holding up and post the results.

 

Keeping the drain holes clear and the mod I did on the inner fender as well as newer gaskets/wipes on the window should help keep the moisture low too.

 

Now I wouldn't use this on the floor, but on vertical surfaces and the roof above the headliner, it should hold up. Only time will tell.

 

Also, even the professional stuff uses either a self adhesive tape or spray on stuff like I used so I guess they have the same chance as I do with the moisture getting behind it.

 

:cheers:

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what is the name of that paint? and what was it from? I think I am going to copy you and put it on my 65 stang!!!! lol ;)

 

the 3800 is starting to shift towards this paint color also... :cheers:

 

keep up the good work Paul! :cheers: :D jamminz.gif

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what is the name of that paint? and what was it from? I think I am going to copy you and put it on my 65 stang!!!! lol ;)

 

Well it will be right at home on the stang. It's a Ford color. Dark Shadow Gray Metallic. It's a tad darker than the Chyco dark gray and looks better at night under the street lights. :D

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what is the name of that paint? and what was it from? I think I am going to copy you and put it on my 65 stang!!!! lol ;)

 

Well it will be right at home on the stang. It's a Ford color. Dark Shadow Gray Metallic. It's a tad darker than the Chyco dark gray and looks better at night under the street lights. :D

 

go figure. I thought that it looked like the newer gray that is on the stangs. I just showed the wife and she want's something darker. still on the lookout i guess.......

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go figure. I thought that it looked like the newer gray that is on the stangs. I just showed the wife and she want's something darker. still on the lookout i guess.......


Check out the dark gray that VW has. That was our second choice and I think it was a little darker.

Well back to the show. These doors are really starting to piss me off.

Decided to pull the door checks and put the newer ones in and found more problems.

This came out. No big deal, was replacing it anyway.

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But this sucks.

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What a design flaw. I've seen a lot like this but was hoping I would be spared. At least the passenger side was good.

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Will also have to replace the body side piece as well as you can see from the pic, the hole is wallowed out.

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So to fix the door, I took two pieces of flat stock, drilled some holes in it, and with bolts, sandwiched the door area in between to get it close to flat again.

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Was going to use the same pieces of flat stock to reinforce the hinge side however it's to thick to allow enough thread for the bolts.

Well stopped again. I'll go to lowes and find something better. :roll:
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I bought a roll of that foil bubble stuff too. I'm planning on trying to make a layer over the head liner, under the carpet, and like you did. how long you think the 3m spray will hold?? I was wondering how to install that stuff into the doors, but I really don't want to do it again...

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I bought a roll of that foil bubble stuff too. I'm planning on trying to make a layer over the head liner, under the carpet, and like you did. how long you think the 3m spray will hold?? I was wondering how to install that stuff into the doors, but I really don't want to do it again...

 

The 3M stuff I have pictured is heavy duty. It's for putting hedliners on so with as light weight as the foil is, I'm thinking you'll have to scrape it off before it falls off. Far as installing it in the door, I used two pieces. The first one covers from 1 inch below the upper body line to about an inch and a half before the bottom. The second piece covered about an inch below the window opening and butted up to the first piece. Then used the tape on the seams. Even with everything out of the door, its a bit tricky. Make sure you do a dry run fitting it in before you put the adhesive on. It will show where you may need to trim to get it to slide in without getting stuck. :brows:

 

:cheers:

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