Catatonic Comanche

The "headliner" eBay point of contact that I provided also makes replacement panels in addition to refabricing kits...

Headliner Carpet Cheers! :cheers: Paul

"uhm" the ones I have are missing parts. That image came from googling "Comanche Dome Light" and it is NOT the lights that I am receiving. It is someone elses eBay sale/purchase. Nice detail pointing out that which you allege is broken, but that is not the light/s that I purchased. I hope that was not a chop-busting attempt... V/R :beerhead: Paul

I have seen some awesome aftermarket mods on this forum courtesy of hornbrod and BLHTAZ and if these allegedly "OEM" (Renault) lights fail me in any iota of the install, I will definitely follow their path. This is a last-ditch effort to stay OEM... :cheers: V/R Paul...

That is an awesome find 89! :thumbsup: I couldn't find anything locally...apparently, MJ owners have discovered the rarity of these lights and are stripping them whenever they can. Oh well...at least I didn't pay $100.00 like that guy on eBay that was mentioned in an earlier thread. Thanks for listening to my griping! :cheers: V/R Paul

...finally located a pair and paid $40.00 (including shipping) for them...didn't think they would be so difficult to locate. :rant: V/R Paul

Obviously, this was a stupid question...

Is it possible to relocate the heater/AC control to make room for a larger stereo/GPS unit...like possibly in the open area at the front of the center floor-console? Sorry in advance if this is a stupid question... Thanks, :cheers: Paul

You can either open the passenger door everytime you desire total access to the glovebox or replace the entire MJ dashboard assembly with an XJ 97+ dashboard assembly. Some forumers here are actually replacing their entire MJ interiors with XJ 97+ interiors...must be an electrical harness nightmare! More power to them I suppose... V/R :cheers: Paul

I could not accept the fact that the 97+ passenger door does not allow an 84-96 glovebox to open when it is shut. Also, jerry-rigging the striker issue difference disturbs me as well. I ended up replacing 92 manual MJ doors with 92 XJ electric doors as a result. Good luck... Paul

The light pulls out about 10 feet (?) and has a magnetic side to it so it can be attached to any metal part, kind off cool. So WHERE does the power-source wire of this engine-compartment light connect? I just grabbed one off of a 1988 Cherokee, but the power wire was snipped... Thanks! :cheers: Paul My recently purchased used underhood light has no spring retraction. Has anyone taken one of these lights apart? Thanks, Paul

Sorry Brent, As a Pats fan previously assaulted by Steelers nazis, I can only pray that God will interevene and deliver victory to the Cardinals. :brows: The results thus far appear to reveal that God has more important calls to answer. :???: It looks as though the Darth Vadar team is about to exterminate their rivals... :ack: Paul

The light pulls out about 10 feet (?) and has a magnetic side to it so it can be attached to any metal part, kind off cool. So WHERE does the power-source wire of this engine-compartment light connect? I just grabbed one off of a 1988 Cherokee, but the power wire was snipped... Thanks! :cheers: Paul

:agree: Nuke the rust at all cost!

It looks great, Wade! Welcome to the Eliminator Club! :thumbsup: Paul

I am not a welder either. I know a guy who is used to arc-welding floor pans into old Willys and he laughed at my MJ's floor damage compared to what he is used to repairing. Anyway, here is a thread of a non-welded floor repair: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=8740&st=0&sk=t&sd=a I think this guy did a really nice job using sheetmetal and machine screws. Please keep us updated with you repair progress. :cheers: V/R Paul

My driver's side was less rusty as the one that started this thread when I first pulled the carpet. I sanded every speck of rust the naked eye could see, doused it with a couple of cans of Rustoleum Rust Converter and coated it with bedliner paint. Two years later, I noticed a stain under the gas pedal. I poked the stain with a heavy screwdriver which punctured a hole in the floor! :doh: I then started pounding around the hole with the end of a crowbar and this was the result of the damage that would ultimately require repairing: Arc-welded floor pans! Good luck with this and please take it VERY seriously. V/R Paul

...oh...and thanks for all of the helpful advice. You guys know everything about our MJs! :cheers: Thanks, Paul

Does anyone out there have any pics of using bolts? I apologize in advance for beating such a minor and unimportant thread to such a bloody pulp... :cheers: Thanks, Paul

Hornbrod is the chrome expert! :cheers: Paul

I wonder if Mike will offer a license plate illumination kit for people who reside in Virginia... :hmm:

Does anyone know a junkyard that might possess a set of OEM metal flare retainers in decent condition? Thanks! :cheers: Paul

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 0295500165 Dude, you were never even close to sniping me...hehehe! V/R :beerhead: Paul

Dude, the nearest local rock would not deter any thug from bashing out a solid rear-glass over a slider any day of the week... :eek: In fact, thugs are more likely to just ignore the rear-glass and simply bust the frontal-door glass over busting your rear-glass. Sliders are better simply because of the breeze they allow... V/R Paul

What is the BEST glue for re-attaching "Comanche" logos, "Jeep" letters, "4x4" logos and the "4.0 High Output" logo? I was considering using "Mighty Putty". Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Also, any advice of aligning those "Jeep" letters for re-gluing would be gratly appreciated. V/R :cheers: Paul