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what did you do to your MJ today?


JeepcoMJ

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I asked my rother to plug the 87 in today so that IF I get home tomorrow from Iowa, I can start it up no worries.

 

oh, and also was told the new crankshaft and connecting rods for the 3800 are sent off to be hardened *shrug* idk what's involved in the process, but I sure am glad for nice (albeit late) christmas gifts.

 

 

-Pat

 

p.s. I'm stuck here b/c 6.5 turbo diesels suck REAL BAD.

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It's been sitting, waiting for my 19lb Ford 5.0 injectors from precision auto to arrive.

 

I smelled gas from the 1st injector area on cold starts, and have noticed it more frequently. No liquid leaks as far as I can tell, but the vapors are extremely strong in that area so I'm not risking it. This would proably explain the loss of pressure in my fuel system as when I remove my gas cap is never lets off pressure any more.

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oh hey i found out that my IAC was dirty and sprayed the hell out off it with throttle body cleaner and now it idles at about 750 RPM big change from 1300RPM :rotfl2: now to see if my milage on gas is better :banana:

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Finally solved my eratic high idle issue.Pulled the new iac solenoid I put in the other day and cleaned it.Still idled to high. To make a long story short I found out my front two intake manifold bolts were about ready to fall out. :eek: I turned them back in with my fingers! Tightened them up and shes running good again.....Now its time to plow some snow again... :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :banana: :banana: :banana:

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Pulled some of the crappy wiring the previous owner did. Also installed my full XJ cluster. After all the crappy wiring I saw I decided I should probably check the CD player's wiring. Good thing I did because the crimps are loose and most of the wiring is sticking out of the crimps.

 

Also noticed that the engine was idling around 400-500 RPM sounded a little low too. I'm going to clean the throttle body and IAC tomorrow to see if that helps.

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Well.... I put a new air line on the compressor today, and tried to track down a misfire code on the XJ.. Replaced the wires, pulled the plugs and cleaned them up, same with cap and rotor. While I was on that side of the block, also cleaned the block grounds.. Still after driving it around for a bit again popped a CEL... :rant: :headpop: :wall:

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I installed the door wiring, power mirrors (yay no more chrome...garmj your chrome mirrors are on the way :D), and power switches and lock solenoids. still need to put the power window motors in, but waiting until I pick up the tinted windows to put those in.

 

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Blew the high pressure power steering hose today. Removed it and was about to install an old one I had laying around but noticed the one I had taken off had chewed up little o rings on each end. Are they really necessary? :hmm: They can slip over & behind the slightly flared ends. If so I suppose I'll have to find a couple tomorrow.

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Blew the high pressure power steering hose today. Removed it and was about to install an old one I had laying around but noticed the one I had taken off had chewed up little o rings on each end. Are they really necessary? :hmm: They can slip over & behind the slightly flared ends. If so I suppose I'll have to find a couple tomorrow.

 

yep, they're necessary.

 

 

today I put the old school sony cd player in the 87, and put the passenger side power wiring in. all that's left to get tunes in is take the knee board off, and install the crossover harness for the power windows locks and mirrors, and hook up a couple connectors. then put the window regs in.

 

still not done with the interior wiring for the interior and cargo lighting though...

 

 

OH! almost forgot...templated out my new rear bumper mounts using wade's from hucks4wd templates and expanding upon them. they're 24" long for the outer brackets, and 20" long for the inner brackets. the center bolt from the factory mounting location is located 14" forward from the clevis mount.

 

now chris at hucks will cut them out from 1/4" steel plate and drill them for me this week. they'll use 8 bolts on the frame on each side, and a brace between the inner and outer piece which will have two bolts each side. side pulls will be no problem.

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Replaced the CCV vacuum line. It was working (clear last week) when I dumped a little Seafoam in the crankcase. All the crap that dislodged the vacuum apparently sucked into the line. It was plugged hard as a rock for about 2 inches a 1/4 of the way down the line. Of course the old line was brittle and snapped in half when I ran a wire down it to clear the blockage out. Such is life. :shake:

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Started the dual diaphram booster swap. I got all of the old stuff out, but hit a snag. The pedal assembly I got from the 1995 XJ is slightly different. Because I have the column shift, the transmission shift cable mounts to a bracket on the old assembly. I'm going to have to see if my local machine shop can cut the bracket off and weld it to the XJ pedal assembly.

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Started the dual diaphram booster swap. I got all of the old stuff out, but hit a snag. The pedal assembly I got from the 1995 XJ is slightly different. Because I have the column shift, the transmission shift cable mounts to a bracket on the old assembly. I'm going to have to see if my local machine shop can cut the bracket off and weld it to the XJ pedal assembly.

 

 

the main bracket is interchangeable, except for the brake switch on the pedal. just swap the pedals themselves...remove the long bolt and swap.

 

did this on my 87 pedal assembly by putting the 87 pedal in the 95 bracket so that I could keep using the 87 booster for now.

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the main bracket is interchangeable, except for the brake switch on the pedal. just swap the pedals themselves...remove the long bolt and swap.

 

did this on my 87 pedal assembly by putting the 87 pedal in the 95 bracket so that I could keep using the 87 booster for now.

 

The brake light switch bracket is much longer and lower on the 95's assembly. I don't think the pedal will contact the switch if I do that. I suppose I could bend some piece of metal to extend the switch down further though.

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the main bracket is interchangeable, except for the brake switch on the pedal. just swap the pedals themselves...remove the long bolt and swap.

 

did this on my 87 pedal assembly by putting the 87 pedal in the 95 bracket so that I could keep using the 87 booster for now.

 

The brake light switch bracket is much longer and lower on the 95's assembly. I don't think the pedal will contact the switch if I do that. I suppose I could bend some piece of metal to extend the switch down further though.

 

it will contact. the brackets are physically the same from what I saw (did my swap a few weeks ago) except for some small differences, like the switch position and the lack of bracket for the shifter cable.

 

but, that's your best bet.

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MJ left, XJ right.

 

If I swap pedals, it won't contact the switch. What can I use to make a bracket that allows the switch to mount lower.

 

 

put the pedal from the right in the bracket from the left, and I firmly believe that it will contact. the pedals are the same length IIRC and the contact point is simply higher up for the brake switch.

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put the pedal from the right in the bracket from the left, and I firmly believe that it will contact. the pedals are the same length IIRC and the contact point is simply higher up for the brake switch.

 

I am holding the two assemblies next to each other right now. If I pull the pedal on the MJ's bracket all the way up to where it contacts the switch, it is much higher than the XJ's pedal when it contacts the switch.

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put the pedal from the right in the bracket from the left, and I firmly believe that it will contact. the pedals are the same length IIRC and the contact point is simply higher up for the brake switch.

 

I am holding the two assemblies next to each other right now. If I pull the pedal on the MJ's bracket all the way up to where it contacts the switch, it is much higher than the XJ's pedal when it contacts the switch.

 

I'm not sure what you mean.

 

had no problems on my end of things going the other way around.

 

 

I would use the MJ bracket and simply build a new switch contact if you're sure that's going to be the problem.

 

gometrically, I'm pretty sure they should contact.

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I finally istalled the new wheel bearings I've had in my toolbox now for over a year, I changed the tranny oil, the rear diff oil, and scored a free set of front brake pads for it ( wish I would have had these when I was doing the wheel bearings ), and adjusted the rear brakes trying to get my parking brake to work better, although I did get more at the brake pedal, the P-brake still seems soft. Guess I need to look into adjusting the cable. And just bought an 86 MJ 2.8 4x4 5 speed LB for parts or whatever, been a good week.

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