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Front tow hooks?


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There is an accessory mounting kit that attaches to the frame where the bumper brackets go, and then the bumper brackets attach to that. Last I knew, both Rusty's and Custom 4x4 both offered essentially the identical kit. Not certain, but it vaguely think I might recall that I may have seen it in a Keystone catalog, too ... but as individual parts rather than as a complete kit.

 

Here ya go:

 

http://www.custom4x4fabrication.com/rec ... l#brackets

 

towhookbracketst.jpg

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I believe I have seen a set of mounting brackets that have both the tow hook mounts and the bumper attachment. They look similar to the pictured by eagle buy with bumper mounting points also. :hmm: Unfortunately I don't remember where right now. If I see them again I will post the location.

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I believe I have seen a set of mounting brackets that have both the tow hook mounts and the bumper attachment. They look similar to the pictured by eagle buy with bumper mounting points also. :hmm: Unfortunately I don't remember where right now. If I see them again I will post the location.

I've been told that if you bought tow hooks as a factory option, the brackets were welded together. Mine were added later, using Jeep parts room brackets.

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I've been told that if you bought tow hooks as a factory option, the brackets were welded together. Mine were added later, using Jeep parts room brackets.

This is correct, I pulled some brackets/hooks from an XJ and the tow hook bracket was welded to the bumper bracket. See this post for pictures, disregard the "mystery" brackets. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=12548

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I would HIGHLY recommend the C4x4 one's over anything else. They include a very key part that helps prevent the brackets from bending. Rusty's, and Omix-Ada (sold threw Keystone and may other retailers) do not include the additional bracket that keeps them from bending during a side pull. I can't tell you how many sets of Rusty's I've seen bent after a few pulls.

 

Unless you can find a set of OEM one's for cheap, the C4x4 one's sell for $75 powdercoated and are super beefy. We've yet to have a customer tell us they've bent a set. We run them on our own rigs and I've came down REALLY hard on them a few times on a rock and they've held up great.

 

Here is a photo of the additional bracket I'm referring to.

 

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Get a set at the junkyard, they are pretty easy to find and my charges about $5. then use all new grade 8 hardware! its a good item to add, until you get a heavy duty bumper. :D

Thanks for the tip. I will be looking for a set next weekend at the JY half price sale. :D

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Motion, Can you run these with the stock front skid plate? Do you have to remove the steering box to install them?

Yes they can be ran with the factory front skid. And no, you do not have to remove the steering box to install them. The bracket on the driver side does not touch any of the bolts holding the steering box to the frame rail. The rear nut on the drivers side sits behind the box, and is a bit tricky to get to, but with either small fingers or taping the nut to a wrench it can be done without removing it.

 

(ignore the "blue" hook, they come with black ones)

 

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Motion, Can you run these with the stock front skid plate? Do you have to remove the steering box to install them?

 

You don't have to remove the steering box, but if you use the additional "L" brackets in the front (highly recommended), there is a small aluminum block inbetween the front of the box and the front radiator support that has to come out so you can tighten the lower bolt/nut on the driverside. Once you get the fastener tightened you can reinstall the block. The block is held by one bolt that screws in from the bottom.

 

Jeff

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You don't have to remove the steering box, but if you use the additional "L" brackets in the front (highly recommended), there is a small aluminum block inbetween the front of the box and the front radiator support that has to come out so you can tighten the lower bolt/nut on the driverside. Once you get the fastener tightened you can reinstall the block. The block is held by one bolt that screws in from the bottom.

Jeff

There is another screw that holds the front air deflector in place that I had to remove in order to remove that steering box "stop" block.

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  • 11 years later...

Instead of making a new thread I'll revive this one and add to it. I will be adding these to my truck. Will I have to remove the bumper and the small cowl peice made of plastic to do so? Also will the tube bumper that's welded on interfere with the mounting?

20200223_175702.jpg

20200224_104829.jpg

20200224_104838.jpg

image.png.2499d28c55cbadba208bdaf8db263473.png

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You will have to remove both the bumper and air dam. If I were to do it all over again I would use a drill saw for the tow hook holes. Remove your bumper and see where the bumper guard is welded and see if it interferes with the brackets. Test fit the tow hook/bumper bracket and see if it will interfere.

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3 hours ago, rylee144 said:

Instead of making a new thread I'll revive this one and add to it. I will be adding these to my truck. Will I have to remove the bumper and the small cowl peice made of plastic to do so? Also will the tube bumper that's welded on interfere with the mounting?

20200223_175702.jpg

 

 

image.png.2499d28c55cbadba208bdaf8db263473.png

Your picture looks like a complete set of brackets.  Do you also have the nuts and bolts?  Specifically, number 33 in the diagram is a special nut made to fit the large hole on inside pass side mounting point.

IMG_5038 copy.jpg

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52 minutes ago, schardein said:

Specifically, number 33 in the diagram is a special nut made to fit the large hole on inside pass side mounting point.

Did you ever find it odd that only one side has this nut? I thought my set was just messed up but now that's how it is.

 

Rylee if you need one I think there might be one or two left as NOS.

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