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Found 4 results

  1. Ronnie

    1Jtmw66P4Jt207206

    1988, Comanche, Pioneer 4.0 L / 2WD / Long Wheelbase Build date: Sticker Un-Readable Current Location: South East, Georgia, Atlanta Status: Still on the road - no rust - Work in Process Notes: I purchased this from a guy who had 3 Jeeps - Cherokee and 2 Comanches. I own two 95 YJs that I have tinkered with that my kids now drive. I wanted a truck and something else to tinker with so, I thought this would be a good option for me. The previous owner did a ton of mechanical work on the truck. I have stripped down the doors and windows and replaced all the rubber and fixed the vent windows, Replaced the big front bumper with a stock one. Had the Jeep painted. I am currently working on the stock flares and brackets.... you know the drill and plan to get the front window frame powder coated - the paint I tried did not work well. What's Next... Replace Carpet Lettering on Tailgate Rear Shocks - The Jeep has a 4 1/2" Rubicon lift but has the stock shocks on the rear which are topped out. Idle Sensor Tinker with a starting issue. Doesn't crank on the first try - much prefers the second turn of the crank. Bed Liner Hitch or Rear Bumper w/ Hitch A/C has a slow leak Spare Tire Holder Cabin Lights Reverse Lights Emergency Brake Tool Box and what ever else comes up or I think is necessary or desirable... Mostly - Just have fun. :cheers: This forum has been AWESOME. There are some very talented folks and the information that is shared really helps us weekend tinkerers. A BIG "Thank You" to everyone who shares.
  2. Hey all, Here is the model and information you need to know about my Jeep. 1989 Jeep Comanche Eliminator, 4.0L Straight 6, Automatic Transmission, 2x4, I have A/C and cruise control. I have managed to complete my closed to open cooling system conversion. I did not spend a lot of money and I also did not go the cheapest route. I shouldnt have to replace any more water pumps or worry about cooling ever again. Here is a list of components that I bought: //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// 2-Row Radiator - $100 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EVWTXLY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Quality: 8/10 Functionality: 10/10 Comes with elbow and straight radiator cooling line fittings. Radiator Cap - $35 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F93S3E2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Quality: 9/10 Functionality: 7/10 It is very hard to turn on and off the radiator. 4' of 5/8" Black Heater Hose - ~$15 total Autoparts store 4' of 3/4" Black Heater Hose - ~$15 total Autoparts store (2) 5/8" to 3/4" Hose Adapters - ~$15 total Autoparts store One Gallon of Concentrate Coolant - $15 Autoparts store One Gallon of Distilled Water - $3 High Flow Thermostat Housing - $33 http://www.hesco.us/products/7882/cooling-system/133247/hi-flow-thermostat-housing-hfth2#.WRuBvWjyuwU High Flow 180deg Thermostat - $19 http://www.hesco.us/products/7969/thermostats-and-housings/43013/hp--gmfordamcjeep-thermostat-180-degree-4364#.WRuIYGjyuwU Thermostat Housing Spacer - $37 http://www.hesco.us/products/7969/thermostats-and-housings/43017/thermostat-housing-spacer-hesths#.WRuIiWjyuwU High Temp Blue Silicone Gasket Maker - $12 Autoparts Store Hi-Flow Water Pump w/ Gasket - $87 https://www.4wd.com/p/flowkooler-high-flow-water-pump-natural-1747/_/R-GNLS-1747 Hose Clamps - ~$10 Autoparts Store 6' of 5/16" Hose for Radiator Vent - ~$10 Autoparts Store (1) 5/16-18 by ~2" long (1) 5/16-18 by ~1-1/4" long *Not exactly sure on length because I gave up on using the housing spacer (I will explain later) *The housing spacer and thermostat housing comes with gaskets. Total: ~$396 Well worth it, will never have a cooling issue. Works like a charm. My Jeep is preventing global warming from happening. //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// A few pictures of stuff I bought... Start taking off parts... I had to take off the supports on top of the radiator, loosen the belt, and accessory fan. See photo below. NOTE: See the square rubber supports on top of the radiator? You need to reuse those. Take them off and put them on the new radiator so you do not forget... :doh: At this point I drained the coolant and took off all the hoses and transmission cooling lines. There is no pressure in the transmission lines so no fluid should leak out! Here is my old radiator taken out of the truck. This also shows the fitting types for the transmission lines. See the bottom elbow transmission fitting? My new radiator came with a replacement. The stock one is one piece and not a swivel fitting like the new fittings. You MAY have to grind, file, sand, etc. the diameter of the new elbow fitting so the plastic quick disconnect fitting will slide on the new fitting. Either that or you can file the plastic piece like I did. See below. ^^ That plastic piece goes on the elbow fitting ^^ I found that there was two holes that did not line up to support the radiator...Both sides. So I zip tied them on. Not too important since there are other brackets supporting the radiator on the top. First issue I found with the housing spacer... The belt comes pretty close the to lower housing bolt. See below. Also you can see two brass inserts. That is a 1/4" plug on the right (wrapped in teflon tape) and 3/16" plug on the left. Normally sensors go there on the newer jeeps. The Renix older jeeps have the sensors elsewhere. Second issue because of stupidity (Halfway my fault). Hardware store worker said the housing bolts were M8-1.25. They are not... They are 5/16-18. So I stripped out the holes and the bolts. I said screw the spacer and used original bolts. Bad luck for trusting the hardware store kid. :fs1: A little fabrication was needed for the radiator cap on the support bracket. It comes pretty close. Also, the vent hose is a 5/16" hose. I re-purposed my coolant reservoir bottle for my overflow tank. I forgot to take a picture but the two heater hoses go straight into the heater core. This shouldn't affect the A/C as the heater valve is open when the A/C turns on. This info is straight from the Jeep service manual I have. Heat comes out of the vents when the blower fan isnt on which is the only case which could be bad... Heat could build up without the blower fan on and melt/overheat things in the HVAC. Other helpful things to note: Make sure to put fan belt shroud/cover on before the new radiator is in. Make sure to put the rubber supports from the old radiator onto the new radiator. !!!!!!!! LET THE SILICONE CURE BEFORE FILLING THE SYSTEM WITH COOLANT !!!!!!!! Feel free to message me for any questions about my experience with this upgrade. :cheers: :rock on: :clapping: :waving: . :MJ 2: .
  3. DIY convert from closed to open cooling. This Write up is how I converted from closed to open cooling. You may choose other parts to achieve the same end result. I am converting because I am tired of messing with the pressure bottle, to remove the heater flow valve, and replace old hoses. Parts: Radiator with filler neck $82.57 * Part number: CU1193 Radiator cap $24.99 * (I bought a fancy cap with built in thermometer.) Part number: 2471S 2 Gallons antifreeze coolant $14.99 ea ($24.98 for 2) *** Item number: 7020022 10' 5/16 hose $19.90 *** $1.99 per foot Item number: 5194083 4' 3/4 heater hose $5.56 *** $1.39 per foot item number: 5192978 4' 5/8 heater hose $5.56 *** $1.39 per foot Item number: 5192951 Two 3/4 to 5/8 hose adaptors $2.99 ea ($5.98 for 2)*** Part number: 80424 A junkyard radiator bottle (I think mine was from a ZJ or WJ dad snagged it for me) Total conversion cost: $169.54 + S&H and tax Optional Parts: Later model thermostat housing with temperature switch new water pump Dual Fan Controller Second Electric fan for dual conversion Wire Relay or Fan Controller Power Switch MJ or XJ 2.5L Radiator Bottle $16.99 ** Part number: 52003213 MJ or XJ Bottle Cap $7.97 ** Part number: J3223202 Ordered from: Amazon.com * Morris4x4.com ** Advanced Auto Parts *** Tools: Gloves Safety glasses Knife or box cutter Phillips and flat head screwdrivers Bucket T-25 T-30 8mm Socket and or wrench 10mm Socket and or wrench Getting Started Start by draining out the old radiator fluid, removing the upper and lower radiator hoses, fan temperature switch, and if you have an auto transmission the transmission cooler lines from the radiator. Use an 8mm socket or wrench to remove the electric fan and clutch fan shroud. The radiator support is held on by several bolts 10mm and T-25 or T-30 (sorry mine where all stripped before I started not exactly sure the actual size). The bolts removed connect the support to the frame and front clip, then they are all out remove the radiator support. The radiator should come out without much fuss. With the radiator out of the way now would be the perfect time to convert to Dual electric fans and replace the water pump. Sadly I was running out of time due to fighting with stripped bolts so i was not able to do ether.... Depending on the radiator you get you may not need to change the thermostat housing. My thermostat housing is from a later model XJ, and can use a temperature switch. However the radiator I purchased has the hole for the fan temperature switch. Remove the 3/4 hose and the 5/8 hose from the thermostat housing and the water pump. Remove the old coolant pressure bottle and the hoses going to the heater core. Cutting the hose may be needed. The new hoses will need to be adapted from 3/4 to 5/8, the reason for this is the thermostat housing outlet is 3/4 connecting to the heater core that is 5/8, and the heater core outlet is 3/4 connecting to the water pump inlet that is 5/8. After all the old hoses are removed take your new 3/4 and 5/8 hose and route it however you like, then measure where to cut the hose in half. Use the 3/4 to 5/8 adapters as needed. Again the hose routing is: 3/4 from thermostat housing 3/4 to 5/8 adapter 5/8 to heater core inlet 3/4 from heater core outlet 3/4 to 5/8 adapter 5/8 to water pump The new coolant bottle is the next challenge. I ordered a 2.5L MJ/XJ coolant bottle that should fit on the drivers side fender, I will likely need to go back to a cone air filter to make room for it. Till I decide for sure what bottle I am sticking with I used one from a Junk yard Jeep and slightly modified it to work. I had to remove the old pressure bottle "shelf" to make room. I used a self tapping screw to attach the radiator bottle to the back of the engine bay where the old bottle was located. I routed the 5/16 hose around the back of the bottle and used the heater hoses as a bridge, ending where the radiator filler neck will be. Install the new radiator and reconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses. Reattach the radiator support. Connect the Coolant bottle hose to the filler neck. For good measure I zip tied all the new hoses in place. Fill the radiator system with 12 quarts (3 Gallons) of coolant. Must be a 50/50 mix, you can use pre-mix or concentrate with distilled water. you may not be able to fit all 12 quarts as there will likely be some coolant still in the engine. Bleed the air out of the system, Renix engines have a coolant temperature sensor on the back of the head accessible from the engine compartment. Clean up and all done Prior to this conversion My Jeep would boil over in 20 minuets and interstate travel was a no go. Now the temperature has yet to pass the 210 mark while traveling 75 mph on the interstate. A side note, my A/C seems to be blowing cooler as well now....
  4. I just picked up a 2wd 88 eliminator and id like to do a 4x4 conversion. What all will i need to do to accomplish this task? I believe all i will need will be a front axle trans and matching t-case all linage involved a bell housing and a front driveshaft. Now this is my plan: I'd like to do a Dana 30 with 4:10 gear ratio, a bell housing from a late 93+ Cherokee with the external slave, an AX15 trans with matching NP231 t-case 23 spline, a new center console to account for the 4x4 shifter lever, and a custom front driveshaft. Now am i able to keep my original rear axle or will i have to swap that as well, And if i can keep it how can i change it to make it work with the 4:10 gear ratio i'm seeking? Let me know if i'm missing or forgetting anything. I'm also looking to give it a 3"-4.5" lift. With that lift what size tire would ​you recommend? I'm thinking of running 35's. ​​ :driving:
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