Minuit

Hmm, I'm starting to get the feeling that you like the color red....

BTW I have not forgotten about the floor mats. Working the hours I'm working now leaves little time for anything but posting on CC before and after work

That's good news that it seems to be correctly made. The gas gauge (especially the discrepancy in float arm length) does somewhat concern me though. I'm one of those people that expects an accurate gas gauge, especially on a new fuel sender. Adding 5 gallons bringing you from 7/16 to almost full doesn't compute. You should be a little bit under 3/4 of a tank. Were both of these readings taken on flat ground? Almost makes me wonder if they got the potentiometer sweep correct. Does anyone know off the top of their head whether the factory Renix fuel sender has a linear resistance range or not? Can you post back next time you completely fill the tank until the pump shuts off with what the gas gauge said before you filled it and how much it took to fill?

A nice Comanche is worth taking cross-country with you. That one leans heavily towards "not a nice Comanche" on my patented "Not a Nice Comanche to Nice Comanche" sliding scale. For any rust visible from outside, here's my rule of thumb: imagine it being twice as bad on the other side, and then multiply that image by 10 - that's probably what it's really like. If you buy that, I see lots of rust repair in your future. Putting someone else's project back together is always annoying ESPECIALLY if it's your introduction to the platform - One of my trucks was unmolested, the other one was multiple people's project before it fell into my hands. I had to spend a significant amount of time undoing someone else's shoddy work before I could get started fixing underlying problems, and I'll never really be free of "previous owner $#!&" on it. If your previous owner was a talented mechanic that took pride in his work, it'll be easier, but you'll still have to get inside his head a little bit to figure out what's going on. Just some thoughts. From what I see, I wouldn't move that truck across the county. At this point, I'm not sure I'd bring my '89 with me across country yet. I'd bring my '91 to the moon if I had to. Start with a nice shell, unless you plan to bounce it off rocks or drive it through mud holes - in that case, don't ruin a nice example.

I was part of the way through an open cooling system conversion on my 89 when Pete stopped by. He makes a great helper!

Milwaukee M12 batteries also accept male quick connect terminals on the top. I've made up a bunch of different leads to test different things with one. I normally have a bag with test harnesses for overhead consoles, Jeep and Ford radios of various eras, etc. The junkyards I go to usually pull every single fuse out of the vehicles, so "powering up" the vehicle itself usually isn't practical. It's fun to see people's reactions to me powering up various electronics in a junkyard. If I'm gonna be there a while, I've been known to find a radio and hook it up to the antenna and speakers of the vehicle I'm pulling parts from.

@Manche757

The OEM fuel sending unit (for HO anyway, my Renix one doesn't work right yet) is quite accurate if working properly. The low fuel light comes on at almost exactly 3 gallons left. Empty is a little below "Empty" and full is a quarter needle above "Full" but it's still quite a consistent and useful instrument. If these new ones are in the ballpark, I'd be satisfied. If they can duplicate the OEM accuracy which is more than good enough, even better.

Son of a gun. Always like to support businesses like that. Once someone confirms fit and build quality, I'll be in for both a Renix one and an HO one once available. I'd be very curious as to which fuel pump they supply. They seem like Bosch guys so far.

Guess today was "Open System Conversion" day The 2.5L bottle fits perfectly, except for getting in the way of the ballast resistor, cooling fan relay, and EGR solenoid. The EGR doesn't even work on this truck, so I've made that a problem for future me. There's enough free wire on the cooling fan relay to move it away from the bottle, and I just bypassed the ballast resistor as it was cracking apart anyway. On my truck, two piloted holes matched up perfectly with the tabs on the 2.5L bottle, so no drilling was required - just run a screw into them to cut threads. The only thing about it that doesn't look factory is how the overflow hose has to make a 180 degree turn to face the bottle, but I'll live. The wiring harness has to be tucked under the bottle, but there is a cut-out in the bottle for it to make room.

The '91 has the silver valve cover I've always kinda wanted! and a bad electric fan that will hopefully get replaced before i have to drive it to work again The '89 has a working cooling system! .... and an absolutely disgusting engine bay. Geez, that's nasty. @Pete M made the first stop of his big trip to hang out and spend the night. Great seeing you as always Pete!

Looking good!

I've had these seats apart and looked at every little detail, and this is one of the things that I was wondering myself when I first "built" my seats. Unfortunately, the frames are pretty much completely different where it pertains to flipping forward. I don't see any practical way to convert an 84-94 4dr XJ seat to flip forward.

I hate that stupid, worthless, dirty, rotten, good for nothing friggin' defrost panel SO MUCH. Not only are the screws a pain in the @$$, but it's a real party to remove non-destructively once you eventually get the damn screws out.

I converted my '91 to rear discs not too long ago. On a c-clip axle, you don't even need to drill any holes. Other than replacing the studs with the ZJ studs, it's 100% removing old parts and bolting on new ones. The drilling holes part is for the 1989 and earlier D35s. The ZJ parking brake cables even fit, although they won't be routed correctly.

I'd volunteer a third thing to add to that list - ZJ disc brakes. Easy enough and very much worth it on the '90 and up axles. If I were doing the work, I wouldn't feel bad about a bearing job on one. Sure as hell wouldn't pay for someone else's labor on a D35 though.

Usually plugged into the cigarette lighter/power port. They also usually have built-in batteries or supercapacitors. They can also be hard-wired generally to ignition-on power, usually by using a 12v to 5v converter. Some have standby modes that will let the camera idle overnight and turn on if it detects motion or acceleration. I've got a bumper with artillery shells in stock right now! They go fast, so be sure to buy quickly.

My D35 has 183,000 miles on it, and those are puny numbers compared to what I've seen in junkyards. The gears still look absolutely fantastic, but the bearings howl. That's a wear issue, not a D35 issue though. I have an MJ D44 ready to be put together the way I want it, but do I NEED the extra strength the D44 provided? Nope, but I do have a bit of an obsession with overbuilding things and I wanted the correct MJ D44, damnit! I realize that my choice to buy, build, and install a D44 in my truck is not rational, because nothing I do poses significant risk of breaking my D35. "Backing out of the driveway" style failures are usually a result of previous abuse causing damage in the axle that slowly and sliently grows (for example, a crack in a gear) until one day it just breaks doing something mundane. If you search this forum, I know you'll find at least a couple of reports of people blowing up D44s in their driveway too. I remember reading them, but I'll leave that as an exercise to the reader. Consider if you have an actual problem with the current setup before proceeding down this potentially expensive and annoying path. Anything but another MJ rear axle will involve its fair share of headache (and even swaping MJ35->MJ44 will most likely require you to shorten your rear driveshaft). A Chrysler 8.25 from a later model XJ is relatively easy, as is an 8.25 from a KJ Liberty. Most KJ Liberty axles come with disc brakes, as a bonus.

The mono sound system is a property of the radio, not the truck. So that means the truck probably came with one of these: or the even more barebones AM-only version. All null and void if a stereo radio has been installed. They wired it for stereo anyway. The mono radio just happens to send the same signals to both speaker channels. Grounded-negative instead of balanced +/- too.

At this point we really do need to see detailed pics of the areas you're asking about to be able to say for sure what's going on. You're doing a good thing, but you may have inherited a bit of a "sticky situation" if you get my drift.

Honey tan interior and Laredo trim says 87 to me.

Wasn't she on Mythbusters too? Damn.

May you be soon blessed by the gift of cold

There are OEM door switch panels for power locks but no power windows. Not very common, but they do exist.

If you're going to keep working on A/C, forget about that stupid can with a gauge on it and get a real set of manifold gauges. To do proper A/C work, you need to know both the LOW and HIGH pressure of the system. You only have a low-side gauge right now. Any data that does not include BOTH pressures at any given time is pretty much useless. When someone asks an A/C question on here I tend to ignore any measurements taken with one of those stupid recharge kits. They're usually pretty far off of the true reading anyway, since they're cheap junk. A low pressure gauge only, especially one from a recharge can, is not an acceptable diagnostic tool for A/C work. You currently have no idea what your high side pressure is. It's probably just fine, but what if it isn't? Clutch air gap should be between 16 and 31 thousandths of an inch, if anyone is curious. What you're seeing when you say the gauge goes into the red is the static pressure of the system when it isn't running. For R-134a, the static pressure happens to be roughly equal to the temperature in Fahrenheit inside the system. If the truck has been off for long, that's roughly the ambient temperature. All that static pressure tells you is whether or not there is some amount of liquid refrigerant inside the system. There may be a teaspoon of it in there or it may be stuffed to the gills. There is one correct number that this should be for a given temperature. If it's not that, you either have an empty system (or close enough) or contamination. When you said it was "almost 100", I'm betting it was somewhere around 100 degrees outside, right? When the compressor kicks on, it sucks refrigerant out of the low side of the system and squeezes it against its will into the high side, so the low side pressure will drop and the high side will climb. If you know the pressures on both sides of the system, you can tell quite a bit about how well your system is running. The pre-'97 XJs and MJs have a very different system that basically NEVER short-cycles. Refrigerant flow is regulated by an expansion valve, and compressor duty cycle is controlled by a thermostat in the evaporator. '91-'96 systems, and I'm pretty sure the earlier ones too, have no true low-side cutoff switch. One big downside - it also has this funny little feature where it will let the compressor pull a vacuum on the low side without skipping a beat in just the right circumstance.