Minuit

I'd get those things nasty in nanoseconds, but I still kind of want them after seeing them If they could replicate the "Jeep" logo as it appears on the factory mats, it would be an instant buy for me.

C0010: Left Front Inlet Solenoid, an ABS code. ... so a service that she isn't subscribed to cold calls her about a problem with the vehicle. The vehicle has no ABS light on and no drivability concerns. So the dealer charges her over 200 bucks to grease the... transmission control module connector on suspicion that the contacts have physical damage due to fretting corrosion on a 4 year old car? I have to wonder what evidence led to this diagnosis. Why not clear the code and tell the customer to come back if an actual problem or ABS light shows up? Guess I'm not dealership material. This whole thing sounds kinda scammy.

Thanks guys

That's the thing. I told him to post here. I don't have the '87 FSM to have definite wire colors. They should be the same as the radio, but without the FSM I can't say that for sure.

That would appear to just be a Car-Part.com interface. In which case, you can expect most of the listings to be several years out of date. At least, if my experiences are anything to go by.

You're supposed to add fluid until it starts dripping out of the plug hole. Make sure you're on a level surface for an accurate fill level. There isn't a drain plug if it's a factory Dana cover. You're "supposed" to remove the cover to drain the fluid (also gives you a chance to look for metal shavings and inspect the gears) but there's no reason you can't suck the fluid out with a pump if you know the axle is in good condition or don't care.

Dang, I could really use this thing for my '89. Alas, no time and my fun money has better things to go to.

That's either an 84-86 "Type 1" cluster or an '87 Renix cluster, most likely '87 because of the odometer font. We need to know what year your truck is and the engine at the very least. I suggest putting this info in your signature. I have an '87 cluster in my '89 specifically because I like the way it looks. When I got it, I had to replace the temperature and oil pressure gauges because they both read about 15 degrees of gauge travel too low. I used gauges out of an '87-'90 "3/4" cluster without a tachometer, and it's worked beautifully ever since. I know that the '84-'86 clusters had trouble with faulty gauges, and the '87 clusters might have had the same problem too. If Eagle's test doesn't make the gauge do anything, double check that the plugs are pushed in all the way, and check the printed foil circuit on the back of the cluster for corrosion or damage. If those both check out, you might have to replace the gauge in the cluster. Not as big a deal as it sounds like, as long as you can find an OEM gauge of that style to replace it with.

None of the colored plastic pieces on the column are remotely easy. Might worth the work for a rare color like Honey. About 45-60 minutes of work at a fast pace. To remove the upper shroud, which is the bit with the ignition cylinder in it. Remove steering wheel, lock plate cover, lock plate, lock plate spring, turn signal cancel cam, turn signal stalk assembly, hazard light handle, tilt lever if present, turn signal switch, key-in-cylinder sensor contact, high beam follower, ignition cylinder (T20? Torx for '90 and down, spring-loaded latch for '91 or newer). Upper housing is retained by three T30 bolts. Wiper switch generally stays with the upper shroud but can be removed separately. If wiper switch is to come out with the upper shroud, unplug it under the dash and thread it up through the column. The upper shroud also contains a bearing, at least on tilt columns. The lower plastic is even worse, especially on a manual column.

I was cleaning and this turned up (just posting the Comanche parts, this is a big brochure): (yes, that is an Eliminator with a mini console)

Man, you don't mess around. I normally just stuff way too many tools in a bag and have to carry it around with me. I need to get organized.

Correct. Still looking for it and I'd prefer an OEM cap over something off of an oil jug. Clarification: I just need the cap (and maybe the baffle if you feel like grabbing it), I already have a bottle.

- Even if the upholstery is junk, the seat frames can still be combined with Brandon's or OEM MJ floor pedestals and turned into MJ bucket seats of whatever variety you want. - The switch panels are desirable and can be used for an MJ. They will require slight modifications to a ground tab if used with (I think) '91 or newer wiring, but that's not a huge deal. - Interior parts - 2.5L stuff if it is a 2.5L. - If the original radio is still in it, there are a distinct group of people who would be interested in that. If it says "made in Korea" anywhere on it, it is junk and is not worth shipping cost. - Gauge cluster can be used in another 84-86 XJ or MJ. - Front grille parts if they are still present, including the 10 slot grille. Those can be used on trucks up to and including 1990.

That is, in fact, my backup plan if I can't make the 2.5L bottle work (there are a couple of relays and such in the way). I was hoping to delete the Renix cooling bottle and that whole funky hose setup entirely, but the one in my truck is pretty new, so if I have to keep it, that's what I'll do. Mainly I want to do something a little different, and I told someone at All Breeds (87MJTIM?) that I would try it to see if it worked.

I'd totally wear that to a show, but that's just me. Clothes are for wearin'!

Working on my '89 MJ. 4.0L Renix. Going to be converting it to an open cooling system soon. Thought I might try using the 2.5L overflow bottle that goes next to the airbox as an experiment. I have a backup in case I can't get it to fit, but there's a big wiring ratsnest where an HO coolant bottle would mount and I want this to look OEM if possible. The bottle itself was super cheap, no issue there, but I can't find a cap for it. Anyone have a source? I've tried a bunch of caps from 5qt oil jugs and various other containers with no joy. It's just an overflow tank, so it doesn't need to be anything fancy - as long as it screws onto the threads on the bottle, it's good to go. The part number for the OEM cap (3300 0438) and baffle (3300 0576) appear to be long dead.

Yes, and most likely as a simple waterproofing measure. It'll work just fine without any grease, and it's probably a good idea to clean that off anyway. The grease's only purpose is to prevent water from corroding the contacts and keep it from passing through the connector to get inside the cab... since they decided to use an UNSEALED connector on a friggin' bulkhead...

And I thought Pennsylvania and back was a hike...

I did not get the LSV that went to the truck the D44 came from, but the LSV is present and working on my truck, and I do intend to keep it with the D44. The '91 LSV is adjustable without an adjustable rod (although it's kind of a pain to do) and I have it adjusted for slightly more rear braking than stock. Still, your point is well taken - I have not verified my brake bias since the disc conversion and I need to do that.

Good info all. I can't quote everyone, but thanks for the good info. 1) I went and looked at my u-bolt plates. The holes in use appear to be slotted, and there are four extra holes, one at each corner of the plate. So this would mean that I can reuse the '91 plates? 2) Teraflex appears to have the solution here. My axle has the "early model" flange bolt pattern. So Teraflex part numbers 86311 and 86312 are the backing plates, 86262 being the required preload spacers. The only question left is whether their kit uses ZJ or Ford Explorer parts, and I can't really tell because the parts are practically identical between the two. I'm leaning towards ZJ. The pads and calipers seem to be the same between the "early Jeep" and "late Jeep" kits, and the "late Jeep" kit instructions from the 2010 catalog, not the new one (sneaky sneaky!) specify that the parts are interchangeable with ZJ parts. Not a huge matter as long as they're from SOME type of OEM installation, since I'll probably assemble another disc brake setup so that the axle truly is bolt-in when I'm ready and I won't have to rob parts from my D35. As long as Teraflex will sell me their backing plates separately and I can determine a source for everything else (or just use the calipers, rotors, and pads I have on my D35) I think we're set here. 3) Alright, sounds like I'll be shortening my driveshaft. Or getting a new one made 1" shorter than stock. Or waiting until the inevitable 4WD conversion and doing all of it at once. 4) So the Truetrac comes highly recommended. I don't hate the TracLok, but at the prices I was seeing for new parts, there were too many downsides for it to be an option. The maintenance every so often is a downside, as is the price (more expensive for new parts than a Truetrac!) - if there is a situation where I come upon a used Traclok for dirt cheap and it works out to be at least a couple hundred bucks less than the Truetrac, that's fine with me, but it seems to me that the Truetrac or other geared LSD is the better system. I do want to be clear here - my truck is at stock height on highway tires with no plans of any true offroading. Ever. Anyone see any holes in this?

How did the new motor fit? Any problems with the cooling hose on the side?

Hmm, good to know. Shame they only seem to work on 97+ stuff. Wonder if they'd be interested in making covers for the older stuff if someone sent an OEM cover as a pattern. I'd be VERY interested in replica 87-92 Limited upholstery.

I have an '88-'90 MJ D44 that I'll be swapping into my '91 MJ in the relatively distant future. I have plenty of time to get my ducks in a row on this project, but I want to get as many questions out of the way as possible. I have the what the parts manual calls the "axle assembly" plus most of the drum brake setup. I do not have the u-bolt plates, u-bolts, parking brake cables, or load sensing valve that go with this axle. I have not taken the axle apart yet, so I do not know what condition the shafts or bearings are in. My plan is a limited slip differential of some kind, most likely 3.73 gears, and disc brakes. I will be doing all of the setup work. 1) As I mentioned, I don't have the u-bolt plates. Are these going to be difficult to find? Am I correct in assuming I will not be able to reuse the u-bolt plates from my '91 D35? 2) I have a complete ZJ rear disc setup on my current D35 that works great. I'm aware that this will not be a direct swap to the D44 due to differences in the tube diameter and brake backing plate retainer. I'm aware that they can be made to work with significant modifications. Does anyone know of anything that will let me use at least some of my ZJ disc parts, WITHOUT drilling or elongating the holes in the ZJ backing plate and retainer? What about the aluminum ZJ D44? 3) Am I correct in assuming that the driveshaft will need to be shortened by roughly 1"? 4) My axle has 3.07 gears and an open differential. I'd like neither of those to be present on the final product. I'm strongly considering the Eaton TrueTrac as my differential. Does anyone have any experience with these in either an on or offroad use? Driving is 95% on paved roads, with occasional driving on wet grass or mud (why I want the LSD). Am I correct in assuming that the Trac-Lok is not worth messing with at any price?

I've heard a lot of very good things about those Grey Pneumatic Duo Sockets. I'm lusting after Sunex's range of impact sockets recently. My tools are a mix of consumer and old pro grade tools. Lots of Wright wrenches with some others mixed in. Mostly mid 90s and older made in the USA stuff. The import stuff is a LOT better than it used to be. I've broken lots of older import tools, had very few problems with the newer stuff. Out of the usual suspects, stuff made in Taiwan has served me the best.