Minuit

They changed over in '91. My '91 has a single key for everything. Funnily (scarily) enough I can start my truck (but not unlock the doors) with the key to a GM car that's 13 years newer. Just that fact is about enough to make me consider re-keying entirely when I swap over to the tilt column I have sitting around.

I agree, but why not start with the best kit and build from there?

That might be on the low side Don. Looked at some prices on their site recently... Jesus.

thou shalt, whenst thou taketh notice of a [ ]||||||||[ ] front end, wait in childish anticipation of viewing the backside of said vehicle (such as whenst one passes thou on the other side of thine road) to determine whether it is a Cherokee or Comanche.

I'd expect that behavior from a "new" reman part. I'd rather pull a part off a 500,000 mile XJ than run a reman of... pretty much anything, really. I'd be sending it back to the parts store in a heartbeat, unless it was something like a plug that needed to be taken out of a port or something. You bleed the system by putting the front of the truck on jackstands and turning the steering wheel lock to lock at least 20 times without the engine running. Keep doing that until the fluid level stays consistent. When it does the system should be clear of air.

Wish I could say the same for mine. I have to slam my doors way harder than I'm comfortable with even after several months (they used to close with the slightest push) and overall wind noise actually seems higher now. I'll keep looking for NOS sets, but I'm getting tired of having to slam the $%^t out of my doors constantly. Can't be good for the latch and striker.

Thanks. Any idea how they fit? I've been very displeased with the fit of my aftermarket 97+ door seals and I'd rather not gamble if the Crown part fits just as poorly.

We all know that blurry photos add credibility to any claim or argument :P

Does anyone know what the Mopar part number is for the '84-'96 (not 97+) door seal?

When re-installing the oil pan, DO NOT forget the half-moon shaped piece that braces the rear! If you forget this piece you will have a severe oil leak at the rear of the engine that no amount of bolt tightening will fix! It looks like a stupid piece of sheet metal but it's important! I decided to replace my standard sheet metal rear oil pan brace/seal/thing with a newer design, which I'm told makes a better seal: I think you can still get these new. I purchased mine from a certain Chrome Freak, who packaged it with two socket head cap screws to make installation easier. Also, the picture really shows how nasty my engine bay is. Now that I had the engine running, it was time to tie up a few loose ends. Namely, a driveline vibration, the lack of a working heater, and some extremely worn upper control arm bushings. In the interest of getting it driveable, I decided to tackle the driveshaft, which I'd suspected to have been out of balance for some time. A local driveshaft shop determined it was out of balance (and unfixable), so a few bucks later I had this: It's a good idea to replace your u-joint strap kit every time the driveshaft is removed (Moog #47310 or Dorman(yuck) 81020 are correct) With the new driveshaft it drives pretty well. It still has a vibration, but significantly less than before. The transmission mount is noticeably bad (I can grab the transmission tailhousing and make it wiggle and clunk) but I'm not sure how to proceed here. I'm not ruling out the D35's multitude of bad bearings either. Naturally, the truck decided to take its revenge on me for waking it from its slumber by sprouting a severe fuel leak at the filter the very next day. It was quickly fixed with new soft fuel lines and a new filter. Next, I decided to do something about my upper control arm bushings. They looked like this: Editor's note: I intend to make my UCA bushing replacement and later heater core replacement into DIY writeups, so they'll be written in a more instructive tone than my usual. This is intended to be the first in a series of a few in depth writeups covering difficult repairs on these trucks. No es bueno. On 2WD trucks such as mine, this job presents a unique challenge. For whatever stupid reason, Jeep decided they didn't need to make the upper control arm bushing mounts strong enough to survive the process of pressing out the bushings without a special tool. Fortunately, the junkyard and your local home improvement/hardware store has everything you'll need to do this job without breaking stuff. Before we replace any parts, let me make some things clear: - You will probably see the bushings listed as being for a 4WD truck. They are the same part, whether your vehicle is 2WD or 4WD. - As an optional upgrade, you can use bushings for a WJ (1999-2004) Jeep Grand Cherokee. The design of the bushing sleeve is superior. I used the stock replacements in this procedure (Moog K3128) - I recommend replacing the upper control arms rather than replacing just the bushings. The cost is similar, and the stock control arms are not very strong. - The control arm contains only the frame end bushing; the axle end bushing is pressed into brackets on the axle. To brace the bushing mounts, I used the #1 main bearing cap from the same engine I pulled the oil pan from in the first part of this chapter: It's a tight fit that will require some tapping, but this will keep your bushing mounts from bending in under pressure. If you don't have a main bearing cap handy, the same thing can be achieved by cutting a "saddle" out of heavy steel tubing. Either way, you absolutely can not skip this step. If you do not use something to brace your bushing mounts, they WILL bend. The most common recommendation you'll come across for a pressing tool is a ball joint press (rentable at pretty much any auto parts store for free). This is a bad idea for a few reasons: - A ball joint press is pretty heavy. The thing weighs in the neighborhood of 20 pounds. Sure, it might not seem like that much, but you don't want to wrestle with that much weight above your head if you can help it. And you probably don't want to break your face if you drop it. - A ball joint press is big and the screw is rather long. On one side of your work area, the oil pan is in the way (I did this job with my oil pan off so I didn't have to worry about this). On the other side, the spring is in the way. Space is very limited in this area of the suspension. Instead, I decided to make something with a few nuts and bolts that does the same job with a much smaller profile and much less weight: This is a press I made using (from left to right) a 3/8"-16x6" Grade 8 bolt (not the bolt in the picture), an assortment of washers, a 1" knockout cup, a 1-3/4" knockout cup, more washers, and a matching Grade 8 nut. The left side presses out the bushing, and the right side receives it. If you don't have knockout punches available, sockets can do the same job (I recommend impact sockets as they are less likely to explode or chip under pressure.) This press can also be used to press in the new bushing by reversing the position of the cups. The 1" knockout cup I used is almost exactly the diameter of the bushing, so I needed to be careful. If you use something significantly smaller than the bushing's diameter, your bushing will probably come out in two pieces. With this setup, both bushings came out in 1 piece. Remember to only do one side at a time! If you remove both upper control arms, it will be very difficult to get the axle to line up when you're done. With these tools, the job is relatively straightforward. On my truck, the axle-end bolts had a T50 Torx head (inboard) and a 15mm hex head (outboard). The frame end bolts have anti-spin collars on them, so you don't need to hold the bolt head. The frame-end nuts are also 15mm hex, I believe. Be VERY careful to not strip the Torx head from the axle-end bolt. Make very sure you are using the correct size socket (the Torx socket should fit very tightly in the bolt head) I recommend spraying the bolts with penetrating oil in advance of the job, and having a torch ready in case the bolts decide to seize. Here you can see just how little room you have to work with. The shiny thing in the top left is the bottom of my oil pump. Anyway, once the bolts are removed (they can sometimes be hard to get out of the holes) the control arm simply lifts out, and then you can replace the bushing. When pressing the new bushing in, be very sure that it gets started straight. If you're using a press similar to the one I talked about earlier, you can also use it to press in the new bushing. Make sure the new bushing's lip is seated flush with the bushing mount. Once that's done you can proceed to reinstall the control arm. No matter how careful you are to make sure the axle doesn't move, chances are you will need to adjust the axle's position to make everything line up again. The factory bottle jack can be used to push the axle away from the frame, and ratchet straps can be used to pull it closer. Alternatively, you can just leg press the axle into position :D Torque specs on the bolts are 55 (axle end) and 65 (frame end) ft-lb. Make sure to torque the bolts with the vehicle sitting at ride height. The factory service manual cautions against using the Torx head on the axle end bolts to apply torque. This chapter still isn't over, but I have quite a bit more material left to cover. Maybe I shouldn't go as long in between updates next time? :banana:

It's going to suck not being able to say "I'm the one with the Jeep truck" and have people know exactly which one I'm talking about anymore :(

I'm kind of a tool junkie so I spend quite a bit of time there to say the least :D

'92. All the benefits of the '91 improvements without the occasional '91 weirdness (like using Renix gauge senders) MJs truly did improve every year, which can't really be said for other Jeep models.

Oh man, I have so much updating to do. Hang on fellas, this is gonna be a long one. Timing Chains And Oil Pans Are A 3,000 Mile Replacement Item: November 2015-January 2016 This update will be pretty light on pictures. I did not take many, as my thought process was "just get this damn thing put back together" rather than "I want to tell the internet just how much I suck!" If throughout this thread you have gotten in your head any idea that I'm a good mechanic, the first part of this chapter may change your mind. The weekend after I wrote the last post, I went to the junkyard and picked up a timing cover from a '95 XJ. As far as I know, all 4.0 timing covers between 1991 and 2000 interchange. Not sure on the Renix years. My 1995 cover does not have the boss near the harmonic balancer, but it does have timing marks. I've been told the timing marks were eliminated in later covers, but I can't prove that personally. Anyway, mine looks like this. Notice the lack of a vertical boss near the timing scale. Not sure what its purpose is, besides making it a PITA to put the serpentine belt back on: Be VERY careful when threading the front oil pan bolts into the timing cover. The timing cover is aluminum, and overtightening the bolts will strip the threads. This is what got me into trouble in the first place. Once I had my timing cover, I picked up where I left off with my timing chain re-replacement. It all went back together a lot easier than the usual. The engine ran fine (but sounded crappy) when I started this job, so I didn't pay much attention to the timing marks past more than a quick glance. I figured I'd just put it all back together the way it was. So I did. The truck didn't run that day. It didn't run for another month and a half. Make sure your damn engine is in time when replacing your timing chain, people. And just to put the dinglecherry on the $%@t sundae, I also discovered this: Pretty sure an oil pan isn't supposed to look like that. Don't know how it got this way. I don't care. Let's just fix it. Also, Dorman oil pans are crap. They don't fit right even when they're the right shape. If you need an oil pan, go to the junkyard and pull one from a newer (~95+) XJ. The factory gasket for the later engines is rubber, which is nice in that it's actually possible to remove the oil pan without damaging it beyond use (unless unlike me, you are extremely lucky), unlike the earlier engines. Done. Courtesy of a 1995 XJ with about 260k. Thankfully this yard doesn't poke holes in oil pans. This particular XJ had been pretty picked apart and had the transmission removed. I could grab the engine by the flexplate and tilt the engine, which made the job easier. The oil pans on these later engines just fall off when you take the bolts out. Don't bother with an earlier one. Factory oil pans are also of a FAR higher quality than aftermarket and will actually fit the engine. While I'm on the subject, don't let anyone tell you the oil pan bolts are 11mm and 13mm. They're 7/16" and 1/2". The 4.0 is an AMC engine with a design dating back to the early '60s. Many nuts and bolts that directly interface with the engine are English sizes. Regardless, use the socket that fits properly and don't blindly believe what people on the internet tell you. Alright, time to go back to work. I decided to remove the old new oil pan and wait until I had the front of the engine together to install the new old oil pan. It's easier to fit the timing cover without an oil pan in the way. Line up the timing marks like this. Don't just look at it and think it's fine. Make sure they're actually lined up. There should be a straight line through the middle of the crank sprocket, timing marks, and cam sprocket. You probably don't want to do this twice. Surprisingly, the engine ran when timed correctly. It even sounded decent! I'm in a time crunch right now, so this is as much as I can put up for now. Tune in some time in the near or maybe far future for when I actually get my truck driveable! Note to self: I need to take more pictures

What do you mean by "fat bellows" type? The aftermarket sender I just put on mine (Standard Motor Products PS315) looks exactly like yours and seems to work fine, or at least believable (60-65psi cold idle, 35-45ish warm idle)

A-ha! I got mine on video when I hit 150k: Seems like such a long time ago. It's about at 160k now. Congratulations on the milestone :thumbsup:

Since the door has been apart, my bet is that the triangle vent window (which is also half of the window frame) is ever so slightly out of alignment and jamming the main glass against the door. Those triangle vents can be a PITA to get lined up right. You might want to try loosening the triangle window's screws and bolt and see if you can adjust it. I had to go through this when I swapped over to opening vents.

Kind of late, but the Mopar 82204675 floor mats are my favorite. Very thick and beefy, they say Jeep, and there's provisions for holding the driver's side to the floor. Occasionally an NOS set pops up on Ebay:

Added to the big list :thumbsup:

We got about 3-4" in Columbia. Just enough to make the roads pretty sketchy. I-40 and 840 were just getting bad about 8:00 when I passed Nashville on my way home. If I would've left Cookeville 30 minutes later I would have been stuck.

Look underneath the truck while it's running and make sure no oil is dripping onto the exhaust crossover where the engine and transmission meet. It's possible that a small-enough-to-not-really-show-on-the-dipstick leak might be throwing a couple drops of oil on the exhaust and burning enough to where you can smell it. You might also want to check the CCV tubing parts on top of your valve cover. Take both of them off and give them a good spray with throttle cleaner or similar - they tend to clog up over time. Might help to avoid building up pressure inside the valve cover. My truck drove MUCH better after I put in new lower control arms, upper control arms and bushings combined with an alignment. I don't think you ever said how many miles are on it, but if your suspension feels just "okay" that's a likely culprit. Mine looked like this:

You did the right thing and I think most people here would agree. We're biased towards MJs but that trade wouldn't make any sense unless you really (and I mean really) wanted a poorly maintained '92 4-banger 2wd that sat for a while for a project.

This is probably the single tool I've used the most out of all of my tools. Bought one about a month after I first got the MJ and somehow haven't lost it yet. Useful for way more things than popping off door panels.

Every Lisle tool I have is awesome. Nice to see they're still making stuff here.

No idea on your first question, but I'm pretty sure the 242 was always paired with solid axle shafts.