Minuit

That. Don't believe anyone who says a '96 cluster won't work. I've seen that load of crap a couple times on various Jeep forums. A '96 cluster works perfectly in my '91.

For the life of me I can't remember where it was I read it or who came up with it, but it is brilliant. As long as the switch is hidden well.

A good suggestion I've read is to wire a cutoff switch to the ballast resistor. That way, "off" would make the truck run for a few seconds and then stall and "on" would be the normal behavior. My next choice would be a GPS tracking device. Without hacking up the wiring harness too much those are the best things I can think of right now. My only security device right now is having absolutely no desirable items in view. I'm gambling on potential @$$holes wanting something out of my truck (the radio, tools, etc), not the whole thing. Nobody's going to break into a truck to steal a tape deck, right? And if you want the ZZ Top tape in there that much I'll just give it to you. I'd much rather have someone break stuff and it stay where it was than have them drive off, get bored and burn it down. I didn't spend 4 years and who knows how much money making my truck the way I like it just to have some Richard Head torch it.

No way I'd pay that much for torn up seats. I recently converted to bucket seats by using MJ seat frames to make imitation Eliminator seats (a seat kit build if you will) and the total cost was just over a hundred bucks. Those are just the basic buckets too with a torn up cover. I'd offer $150, maybe 200 on the high side, and that's assuming the floor brackets (the most valuable part of the package) are included.

Good thing you got that slimy piece of $%#%'s face in the frame. I don't usually call people anything approaching "slimy piece of $%#%" but the situation demands it. Not much consolation considering you got to watch your truck being carted off to its doom in very clear detail. I'd write off everything in front of or at the cab. The heat damaged parts in ways that probably wouldn't be easy to notice. All the bearings and seals in the front axle, trans and T-case were likely severely overheated by the fire and won't ever be the same again. At the very least the T-case would need to be rebuilt. As gogmorgo said, check the fluid. The rear suspension and everything attached got off easy. Check the front of the bed for warping and cracking. I wouldn't trust anything within about a 5-7 foot radius of the cab to ever work properly again. Bed is a big maybe if it didn't get "customized" in the front by the heat. All said, I'd say you have $500-$1000 in parts if you assume $400 for the D44 (I wouldn't pay that much unless it didn't need any work at all, but hey), $100 for the springs (they can be re-arched if someone cares enough), $50-100 for the tail lights, $50 for the wheels, $100 for the tailgate, and however much beds go for for the bed assuming it's still usable + the extra stuff you have. I can't see a much better argument for garaging an MJ. These things are rare, beginning to appreciate in value, and very easy to break into what with their GM steering columns and lack of any security features whatsoever. Not that that helps if you don't have a garage, but I know mine won't be parked outside again once it gets painted.

To be fair, the energy that was used bending that bumper up didn't get used to break OP's neck...

Every green '92 I've seen has baaaad clearcoat fade. Hard to say if it's worse than normal, but my silver '91 is still shiny except for the roof and back of the bed.

No time to make a real update, but... And yes, they do flip forward. Details on how I did it to come.

7mm Allen.

I'm now partial to running 4 front mud flaps but I can definitely appreciate the originals still. :thumbsup:

Oh hey, I took my bench out today too! I'm not putting a bench back in though. Looks like a fairly solid truck, and I love the black interior. I'm SO jealous of how much garage space you have. Those funky clips for the headliner are factory. They grab the sides of the headliner to help with positioning it before you put the interior panels back together. The headliner is held in by the velcro, the metal clips, then finally the interior panels. Won't comment on the floors since I've never put floors in these.

I wouldn't worry about it. That's more or less the OBD1 way of saying "all clear" for no A/C. Certainly wouldn't hurt to check the codes every once in a while though. The OBD1 system very very rarely turns the CEL on in my experience, and I doubt it would turn it on for 33 or 35 (unless of course it's on in your truck :dunno: ). IIRC those codes are normally present on a non-AC vehicle anyway.

Ooh, I like this a lot. I like how specific the parts list is, even down to the air freshener :D

T-50 is also the same size as the bolts holding the bumper and a few other things so you'll need it for more things down the road. A comprehensive Torx set (T6-T55 are present in various spots on the truck, possibly bigger) wouldn't be a bad buy at all. And don't forget the E12 bellhousing bolts. Oh, and 7mm internal hex on some brake caliper slide pins.

Not an April Fools joke. I'm not 10 years old. This is a serious statement/question, and I would like to confirm for sure. Yikes. You see so much BS posted on the internet today that it's always better to treat everything you read with extreme suspicion. Actually, that's true for every day of the year but I digress. I also can't find anything to back this up. Perhaps the decision was very recent and no articles have come out yet. It's a somewhat believable story (and I don't doubt Federal Mogul would liquidate a competitor if it had the chance). I would call Timken myself to confirm but I'm about to head to class.

:laughin:

I hope this is an April Fools joke... but with the state of the aftermarket junk industry I believe it.

Running Out of Things To Fix: February-March 2016 Let's start this chapter right. For the past couple of months, I started noticing a faint "honk, honk" sound coming from the engine. At first it was very quiet and only occurred at most once every three weeks, so I thought nothing of it. As time went on, it started getting louder and more frequent, finally getting to the point where the engine would honk almost every other time I started it. A quick feel around the engine bay revealed that the noise was coming from my distributor. Upon taking out my old distributor, I was greeted with this: Here's a good chance to make an upgrade: Distributors from 1994 to roughly 1997 feature the same connector as early HO distributors (possibly also Renix?), but the sync sensor (aka the "pickup coil") is easily removable without pulling the distributor. 1994+ distributor in front, my 1991 original in back. I pulled my "new" distributor from a 1997 Grand Cherokee. I believe 1997 is the cut-off for these, as later engines I looked at had a different style of plug. The plug you want looks like this: This pic is awful, but there are 3 flat pins on the plug. As long as the plug on the distributor matches the plug on the vehicle, it will work (assuming the sync sensor on the junkyard distributor works, of course). The hardest part of this job is making sure you put the distributor in the right place again. The easiest way to do this is to turn the engine by hand until the distributor rotor is facing straight forward: If you get it a tooth off, you'll notice. It will probably take several tries to get right, since the rotor turns as it's lowered into the engine. Make sure to replace the gasket (Fel-Pro 70051) and make sure it's seated correctly and doesn't get damaged in the process. It might be a good idea to get a couple. Installation truly is the reverse of removal: While I was at it, I put on a shiny new brass terminal cap and rotor. The rotor is specific to 94+ distributors, but the caps are exactly the same. Now, if the sync sensor dies the distributor won't have to be removed to replace it, and the honk sound is gone! Not surprisingly, the engine runs better when it's not wasting a few horsepower trying to turn a nearly seized distributor. I'll go on record saying that I'm extremely disappointed the 97+ door seal swap. Perhaps results might have been better with Mopar door seals, but I'm not willing to shell out $174 per side to find out. The 97+ door seals made the doors require what I consider excessive force to close the doors, and caused the doors to visibly protrude at the top corners of their openings. That ain't gonna work, so I replaced the door seals with the correct and proper replacements, Crown 55025514. These fit exactly as I remember the torn up factory seals fitting, with only a very small gap at the top corner. Compared to the 97+ parts: Massive difference. The doors now close like they should. I've noticed absolutely no change in wind or road noise, either. At this point, I'm starting to run out of major problems that need to be fixed, so now I can spend time on my favorite things, small details. My soft inner fender liners looked like this: so I nabbed a pair of still pliable liners from a '96 Cherokee: These are pretty easy to remove, but you have to remove the fender flare nuts to get them off. Prepare a solution to re-attach the flares beforehand, because you will break some of the studs. The factory style brackets are still available, so I chose to replace them. Here's what came off of the driver's side: If those holes weren't there, I'd almost like the way these trucks look without flares. Good to see the fender under there is still in good shape. Anyway, after putting everything back together I had this: Much better. You may need to take the front bumper off to make the front of the passenger side liner fit correctly (as the vacuum bottle might get in the way). If you've been keeping up with some threads I've made in the past, you'll know I've been wanting to put a factory radio in my truck for quite some time. The previous radio was a Kenwood that I was happy with, other than the fact that it didn't look right in the dash, and the wiring behind it was... questionable at best. Only two speakers were hooked up, and they worked oddly, at best. However, I only wanted a radio that I knew the tape function still worked in (yup, I do have a modest collection of cassettes). Many thanks to TN bro relyt120 for hooking me up with not only the radio, but the somewhat difficult to find dash tweeters that came with the optional Jensen Accusound audio system. I've always liked the way these radios looked, and it turns out I like the way they sound, too. I took this opportunity to repair the wiring, using crimp connections as opposed to the twisted 'n' taped previous job with some wire nuts added in for good measure. Before: After: In my case, I had two different wiring harnesses on hand, one from a 1991 Cherokee and one from, if I recall correctly, a 1993. Both were identical to each other and matched the wiring colors on my truck's harness. I reused the stock wiring except for the front left speakers. I made a few posts in earlier threads discussing stock radios where I suggested that the Comanche and Cherokee wire colors were different, and that all Internet wiring diagrams (including the FSM) weren't correct. I was wrong, because I assumed the wiring diagram on the radio casing was looking into the front of the connector, which is not the case. In any case, the 1991 Cherokee and Comanche stereo wiring colors are identical, and the FSM and Intenet color charts are correct, at least for 1991 Comanches. Here is the wiring diagram for the factory radio harness. Note that the graphic is looking into the back of the harness, not the front. Anyway, here's an updated interior shot: When I was at the junkyard, I picked up a set of updated (1995-1996?) vinyl door water dams, as the ones on my truck were completely gone. They are made out of a thicker material, and also provide some sound deadening properties: I also wanted them to be easily removable for service: I also took this opportunity to add 5-1/4" speakers to the doors in the factory location: I also added the dash tweeters used in the optional "Accusound by Jensen" factory audio system. They are not very powerful, but they are noticeable. Imitating the factory wiring, they run off the same signal as the front speakers. The tweeters have integrated bass blockers so they will only play higher frequencies. The audio system responds very well to increasing the treble setting on the stock radio, which I believe is a result of the tweeters. I may replace these with either 2" tweeters or 3-1/2" full range speakers at some point. While I was in "car electrician" mode, I also did a simple mod that allows my cooling fan to be turned on by a switch in the dash, as well as by the ECU. More details here: http://comancheclub.com/topic/48804-electric-cooling-fan-issue/?hl=aux+fan&do=findComment&comment=496745 On the HO models, all you need is a switched ground on the wire corresponding to pin 31 on the ECU harness. On the '91 harness, this wire is blue and pink. I had one more place left for a switch on the dash, so I grabbed a factory fog light switch at the junkyard and installed it next to my (currently for show) actual fog light switch as per the wiring diagram in the link above. Now the fan can come on if the ECU decides the temperature is too high, the A/C clutch is engaged, or if the switch in the dash is flipped. Nice to have when sitting in traffic, as my truck does run slightly warm (220ish indicated) when not moving. Being able to manually control the fan certainly does help to keep the temps a little lower. Recently, I got my hands on a set of NOS Cherokee front mud flaps, which I installed on the rear. This gives a far cleaner look than the regulation Comanche rear mud flaps. I detailed the exact process of making these work in a DIY writeup: http://comancheclub.com/topic/49907-using-front-xj-splash-guards-on-the-rear-of-an-mj/ My front right wheel center cap started making a really annoying clicking noise (thanks, tire shop who broke them!) because it was slapping against the wheel with every rotation, so I took it off in my apartment parking spot. I got some pretty odd looks from my neighbors for jacking up and taking a wheel off of my truck in the parking lot, but the noise is gone. These wheels probably won't be on the truck for very much longer. They photograph nice, but the clear coat is missing from a couple of them and one is starting to develop surface rust. If you're in the middle TN area and you're selling a set of nice Ravine wheels, hit me up. Next time, maybe I'll do something with these? :wavey:

Hm, it has factory (or aftermarket ripoff) tow hooks. Don't see those very often. And the new style windshield gasket. And it looks like either new or painted front clip parts. At some point someone put some thought into it, maybe? Congrats on the additions! I've also never seen a hood like that...

At this point I don't think any (realistic) amount of cash would make me sell mine. I've become far too attached to the damn thing, even if it does decide it wants to piss me off every once in a while.

:agree: Just ignore the "social media" part of it and it's a reliable and simple host that hasn't given me a single bit of trouble. I started using it when I joined this forum in 2012 and every single one of my pics (894 as of this writing according to the site) still works. Nice sizing options too (normally I use Large Thumbnail for everything)

I think I've seen those seats in ZJs before but I can't seem to find a picture that looks just like them. They do look very nice though. :thumbsup: I have the '91 electrical manual but wouldn't be able to get to it to make scans until this weekend. I'm sure someone on here has the '92 version, which would probably be more correct anyway.

I don't know if the WJ ever had manual seats. Maybe on base models? Got a pic?

Fair enough.

Looks like a nice project. Too bad about the paint fade and the rust. It seems like a non-rusty Canadian MJ is a unicorn indeed. Any MJ, especially a green '92 is worthy of a restoration. Is that the outline of a swoosh I see on the bed? WJ seats are very nice indeed. Did they keep the power adjustments when they swapped the seats in?