Minuit

You way overpaid for all that stuff Adam. It's just pieces of plastic! I could help you get rid of it, since I'm sure you're so embarrassed to have paid so much for plastic :D You couldn't be convinced to part with that cluster, could you?

I'm gonna make a DIY writeup of exactly what I did, don't you worry :thumbsup: I use crimped on female d-sub terminals. They grab the pins perfectly and can be removed easily. Obviously not everyone has a crimper that can do tiny (28 AWG in my case) open barrel terminals, but it's the best solution IMO. I think the radio bleed through is a signal strength problem. The stronger the signal through the 2 pins, the more the radio attenuates. My phone is an LG G2 which is notorious for having really weak sound output. Maybe a volume booster (I've never found one that actually works without rooting) or preamp of some kind might get rid of it? If I tune to an empty frequency there's just a tiny bit of static in the background so that's what I normally do.

I've done this with 2 different models of this Chrysler deck: Not sure if it's possible on the older AMC decks since I've never taken one apart and I don't have one to experiment with. I've seen pics of one taken apart and it looks pretty different from the Chrysler decks, but I wouldn't be able to say for sure unless I could get my hands on one to play with.

If the rear bumper is as straight as it looks that's a good buy just for the bumper.

I just finished adding an aux input to my stock radio. Can be done on all of the models of the Chrysler AM/FM/cassette radios. The process for doing this is on this forum, but would anyone in the club be interested in me making a plug 'n' play cable for this? I figure cost will probably run in the $20 range. I intend to publish detailed instructions for making your own regardless :thumbsup:

Neat. The 89 is still on R12 so I'll have to keep that in mind when... if I ever get the A/C working in it.

I run 5w40 because that's what my engine likes best in my approximation. I will freely admit I have no studies whatsoever to back my opinion up. Yes, I know about the temperature-oil viscosity chart. It seems to build oil pressure a little quicker on a cold start and maintain it a little better once warm with the Rotella vs the Pennzoil 10w30 I was running before. Sounds better too. Regarding the zinc, not really in the case of T6. It has almost exactly the same ZDDP content (~1250ppm) as oils of the late 80s and early 90s so it's at most as bad for the cat as oils that were around when our trucks were made. Modern oils top out at about 800ppm. Even if it did make much of a difference to catalyst life I would rather preserve the flat tappet camshaft than the easily and relatively cheaply replaceable cat. When the oil pan was off, I noticed the cam lobes didn't really look all that pretty, so I figure the cam could use all the protection it can get. Does it make a big difference? Maybe not. I'm not an engine builder or a scientist, but almost all of my research tells me it does make at least a little bit of difference. The 89? Gets the cheapest 10w30 I can find. With an engine that makes single digit warm idling oil pressure, I'm not going to fork out extra for fancy oil that's just gonna drip out onto the ground. As soon as I get the time and money it's gonna get an early HO long block anyway.

My 91 loves Rotella T6 5W-40 with a wix or Mopar filter.

I'm pretty sure you could always get automatic on the floor, but you had to option it up quite a bit. Seen a couple 86s with automatics on the floor. Very uncommon though. Here's an 86 brochure that lists a floor shift auto as an option.

Yes, the 1991s and 1992s are across the board better than earlier models. Better parts availability, less wacky French stupidity, more reliable. Rustproofing didn't get any better, though. All other rust and body related concerns are still valid but HO models just work better. My 91 and 89 seem about as powerful as each other in town but the 91 can use its power much better on account of its 3.55 gears. The 91's engine is also in much better shape than the 89's and the 91 is automatic while the 89 is a 5-speed, so not really a valid comparison, just an anecdote. Do keep in mind that all 4.0/manual trucks got 3.07 gears from the factory, which are fine in the city but HORRIBLE on the highway.

That oil pressure gauge is attached to an idiot light sensor. Either it started life as a no gauges truck or it had the wrong sensor put in if the original one died. The gauge will peg past 80 when the sender for idiot lights would command the idiot light off.

I think FB is terrible as far as tech help goes. The quality of help is MUCH better around here. I think we should wake up the ComancheClub page (hell, I'd offer to do it myself) as far as news posts go but point any tech questions/stuff for sale to the forum. The classifieds sections on here are way more readable than FB for sale groups anyway.

Since it's a 5 speed, check the fuse box VERY CAREFULLY. Wiggle the fuses. They should be very tight. If the fuses are even slightly easy to pull out or wiggle (my 1991 requires pliers to pull fuses out) do not buy the truck. My 89 has severe fusebox damage and there isn't evidence of it on the firewall, but the fusebox is absolutely trashed. The badges are in the wrong place. The 4x4 badge is about an inch too high and there shouldn't be badges on the bottom of the tailgate (they belong in the recessed rectangle where the JEEP letters are). The re-paint was probably a half assed job like most re-paints are. The badges should be exactly where they belong if the paint job is of good quality, not wherever Cletus felt like putting them. And what's up with the inside of the bed? Another detail I just now noticed is the uneven panel gap on the hood. Possibly it was in an accident, or someone took the hood off and didn't care to make it line up again. Neither are good signs. Not a $6k truck. A $6k truck will have original paint in good condition or a very high quality repaint, original rear bumper, etc and there should be absolutely no problems. That's a $3k truck to me, tops. I wouldn't drive all day to look at it. Most likely there's a reason the pictures are so terrible. Most likely it photographs well from a distance but doesn't hold up to any sort of scrutiny. They all say there's no rust. Disclaimer: I'm a ridiculously anal retentive detail oriented freak. Your mileage may vary.

Lame!

Just for you, Don. I don't think the console would fit with the wrong duct.

Curious since my belt adjuster is a little wonky but not broken yet - will switching to the new style power steering pump get rid of this adjuster?

I've had 2 brand new Cloyes timing sets have a worrying amount of slack and make noise right out of the box. I don't know what a brand new factory one is like, but it seems like the aftermarket parts suck across the board.

If you do end up getting 10k to spend, that'll get you one hell of a Comanche once the right one comes along. Other than rust in the floors, rocker panels, and rear of the bed (problems for all model years), 87-90 models are prone to electrical problems (mostly ground related) and will need some fixes to bring them up to 100% if not done previously. 91s and 92s are much more solid in this regard. It seems like you know what you're doing but make sure to check all of the obvious stuff too. Leaks, engine noises, etc. Get it up to a decent speed and hit different bumps to check for death wobble (my 89 triggers death wobble hitting bumps with the steering loaded up at more than 60mph, for example. Its track bar is in very bad shape) That indicates worn front suspension parts. If it happens unexpectedly you'll know when it happens and you'll probably remember it the rest of your life. Once again, all model years are susceptible. If you're looking at one with a manual transmission, check the fuse box under the dash. Make sure the fuses are strongly retained inside the fusebox. They should be difficult to pull out and should not wiggle even slightly. If they pull out easily or wiggle that's a sure sign the fusebox is damaged. The clutch master cylinders like to leak and they're directly above where the wiring harness goes inside the cab. I'm dealing with this right now on my 89 and none of the options to fix it are pretty. If you're planning on spending that much, you're best off avoiding the 1986 model year completely unless the 2.8 V6 has been replaced with a real engine or if you're feeling lucky and go for the extremely rare 2.1 diesel. I'm assuming you don't want a 4 banger.

Can you get one from a junkyard?

This is normal. All of the engine sensors have to "check in" before the engine will start. The Renix models take even longer to start, and that's also normal.

Think it's this one. https://www.facebook.com/groups/247776865279443/

I mounted the toolbox in the bed using this kit. That kit is awesome! Wish I had known about that, would have definitely got a couple sets. You are really working out a lot of the bugs in that truck, glad you took it off my hands! Stumbled on it while I was at TSC for unrelated things. Sometimes I'm lucky like that... A new toy has joined the Minuit ranch. I'll be needing this for many projects on both trucks, and one very big one on this truck that I'm sure you all can guess. I like to do things right, that way I can buy more tools! I don't have anything to share, just wanted to show off.

Probably turns the lights on any time the camera is accessed.

I mean, you have to admit it's pretty cool to just look at your phone and see what groceries you need. Dumb and unnecessary, but still cool. Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

The HO has little need for "do these 153 fixes as soon as you get it or else" type advice. The electrical systems in the 91s and 92s are generally very solid, an across the board improvement on the Renix system. If it's a manual check for fusebox damage - if you have any intermittent circuits or odd issues that should be the first place you look. Not an issue on automatics. What sort of problems are you having? If you give us more details we can lead you down the right path rather than taking shots in the dark. The factory service manual is not 100% perfect but it's a million times better than the worthless Haynes or Chilton garbage out there - plus you get wiring diagrams. Not the best wiring diagrams, but they're there at least. Both paper and electronic versions of the FSM are readily available.