Minuit

That appears to be the rear piece of your oil pan gasket. The factory gaskets on the older engines were 4 separate pieces. Your new gasket will (hopefully) be one piece. The part you pulled off isn't needed.

Here's a set NOS mud flaps for the front at a very nice price. I bought a set already so they may have several: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-OEM-Jeep-Cherokee-Front-Splash-Guards-/272170892794?hash=item3f5ea63dfa:g:UaUAAOSwmmxW5zRT&vxp=mtr

Just to provide some closure, I wired up a switch in the cab (a factory fog light switch from the junkyard does the trick) to turn the fan on. All that's needed is a switched ground to a blue/pink wire (at least on a '91) corresponding to pin 31 on the ECU harness as given in Don's link above :thumbsup:

Ooh, good eye Ben. They knew exactly what they were doing there I think. :agree: The cutesy look doesn't do it at all for me. They can black out the wheels and put aggressive tires on it all they like, but it's still too "cute." A 5 foot bed wouldn't be enough for me either. Sometimes 6 feet of bed is cutting it close. Of course, I use my truck for work every once in a while - no such worry with the Cute Comanche.

Too round and too much focus on the dumb easter eggs. The size is right though. Small trucks these days aren't so small. I love that M715 crew cab except for the stencils on the hood.

Is it a really awful, deep knocking sound? If it's an automatic I'm willing to bet it just needs the flexplate bolts tightened. When I first got mine I was told it needed an engine RIGHT AWAY but 20 minutes and a few tightened bolts later and it no longer needed an engine.

So what we've learned from this thread is that all shocks other than Bilstein and OME suck, it just depends on who you ask :D For the record I've had Monroe shocks (sensatrac front, load leveler rear) on mine since 2012 (about 10k miles) and I haven't been disappointed yet.

Just did this mod using a factory fog light switch in the cab and it works great. On my 91 it was exactly the same as the wiring diagram - ground out the blue/pink wire and the fan comes on as long as the key is on. Very easy and I would highly recommend, as my electric fan doesn't come on automatically until the temp is WAY too high for my liking.

:(

I have Sylvania Xtravisions on my truck. No particular reason why, just because they were cheap and better than what was in there. I'm not impressed or disappointed by their performance, but my headlight wiring is still stock.

Self service junkyards in my area charge about $15 a piece for them. Just find an XJ in the yard that has smooth window movement. As long as the window moves easily in both directions the regulator still has plenty of life left in it. Later (~94 and later I believe) use bolted in regulators rather than riveted in. On your MJ you'll need to drill I believe 6 rivets to get the regulator out. I pulled a pair of regulators from a '96 XJ and my windows work great now. Hardest part is getting the glass separated from the regulator.

I've heard that the Dynomax Super Turbo gives a stock-like but very slightly deeper sound.

Wish I would've known this before I put a Spectra in mine. At least the one in OP's pic has the bottom mounting hole. OP, the Spectra fits fine but is otherwise unsatisfactory.

The blue Felpro gasket also comes with plastic guides you thread into the engine and snap the gasket, then the pan onto.

I like how the RHD climate controller is just the LHD one upside down. :yes: Lazy as usual, Jeep.

Or that.

Honestly I'd just look for another wheel in better shape, but I like things to look factory.

It's been very nice this weekend. Too bad I've been working on either the MJ or my dad's Buick. Going to use the MJ to move some furniture for a friend tomorrow. (hey, he's paying me :dunno: )

:agree: Birmingham is either a 2hr or 4 hr drive depending on where I'm leaving from. If there's a half decent number of people (and I could get the time) I would be willing to show up.

That's the sender for the ECU. The one the gauge reads from is at the very back left of the head. Still worth fixing that harness, though.

For this final installment of "crap I did over the winter break," we're going in deep. Open heart surgery. Here's how they put these things together in the factory: Step 1: Suspend heater core in air. Step 2: Build vehicle around heater core. Around May last year, as I was finally getting the truck on the road again after the rear main seal replacement from hell, the heater core decided it had done its job long enough, and began puking coolant at an alarming (and floor-covering) rate. Not willing to dive in after spending so much time working on it, I elected to bypass the heater core and deal with it later. It wasn't cold in May, but it's cold now, and I'd like to have working heat again. IF YOU HAVE AIR CONDITIONING, THE ENTIRE A/C SYSTEM MUST BE COMPLETELY EVACUATED PRIOR TO THIS PROCEDURE. YOU MUST OPEN UP THE A/C SYSTEM TO REMOVE THE HVAC BOX. FAILURE TO EVACUATE THE SYSTEM BEFORE DOING SO CAN RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY. REFRIGERANT IS NO JOKE. Since you are opening up the A/C system to the atmosphere, you should also replace the receiver/drier unit afterwards. They are extremely cheap and help to prevent corrosion in the system. It's a $13 part on Rockauto. There's no excuse for cutting corners this small. If you can swing it, there's no better time to replace your A/C evaporator. It's $60 on Rockauto, but do you really want to do this twice? To do any of this, you need to take your dash out. Don't believe any idiot rednecks that say you don't, because you do. There is an excellent writeup HERE. This writeup also covers the process of heater core replacement in far more depth than is appropriate for this build thread, including a full teardown of the heater box so I see no reason to make this into a writeup. Here's the heater box out of the truck. The weather on the day I did this could not possibly have been any better so I was very happy to do this outside with the garage door open rather than inside on the bench. Uh, you're not supposed to be in there. Don't put anything you want to keep on top of the dash or it stands a good chance of falling down inside the HVAC box. Actually, just don't put stuff on top of the dash period. I can see no reason why this would possibly leak. Watertight like a sieve! Here's the new heater core: Spectra "Premium" part # 93024. I have a generally very negative attitude towards aftermarket parts, and this thing exemplifies why. It completely lacks one of the screws that the factory heater core has holding it to the heater box, and the one screw hole it does have is too small to accept the factory screw without being drilled (or punched) wider. The foam seal around it is also about 25% the size of the original one, but the original seal is probably soaked and unusable if you're doing this job. It does fit correctly in the heater box though, but that's about the only good thing I can say. Oh, and Spectra packs these things terribly. They don't cushion it at all. I had to have Rockauto send me a second one since the original one they sent me was "customized" at some point in shipping. Mopar heater cores run in the multi-hundred-dollar range, unfortunately. Make sure the new heater core holds pressure (cover one of the holes and blow into the other) before you put it in! Be very careful that you don't dislodge the defroster door. As far as I can tell there's not anything holding it in place and it's a huge pain to get put back right. Make sure it's in place before you put the dash back on. Once you have the new heater core in place, just put everything back together. Make sure you're not pinching any vacuum lines and make sure everything stayed together and in its proper place. I strongly recommend getting someone to help you put the heater box back in. It's probably the only part of this job that requires it. To cut a very long story short, my heat works very well now. Here's a picture of my dogs not looking at the camera. I was very lucky to stumble upon a set of NOS Mopar slush mats, part number 82204675. These are one of my proudest MJ possessions at the moment. They look and fit way better than the aftermarket junk that was in there. The driver side floormat comes with a plastic barb you screw into the carpet to hold the floor mat, pretty cool. And for the first week or so they made the truck smell like an old dealership :) After that, it was time to get the temperature and oil pressure gauges working again. Simple enough - you just need to swap out two sensors on the engine. The part numbers I used were: Temperature: Wells TU108 Oil Pressure: Standard Motor Products PS315. The '91 shares gauge senders with the Renix years. As always, prefer Mopar to the aftermarket junk part numbers given above. I have read in a couple of places that 1996 gauge clusters don't work with '91 trucks due to "electrical differences". Like most things you read on the internet, this is total crap. 1996 XJs don't have a temperature sender in the head, but the cluster doesn't care where it's getting the information from. The oil pressure sensor is pretty simple to change out. It sits right by the oil filter. I couldn't find a wrench that fit it, so I just used a crescent wrench. The temperature sender is located on the back driver's side of the head just in front of the engine ground and is a major pain to get to. It's a 13mm hex. (pic not mine) If your experience is like mine, you'll have to go a sixteenth of a turn at a time with a wrench behind the intake because the valve cover prevents you from getting a socket or a gearwrench on it until the hex part of the sender is above the lip of the valve cover. :fs1: It took longer than it should have, but knowing what temperature my engine is running at is more than worth the trouble. Once I fired up the engine, I got a nice little surprise: Never thought my engine would be making over 60psi of oil pressure when cold and 40 when warm. I was worried I wasn't even going to reach the minimum acceptable 13psi, but this little MJ is full of surprises! I also observed that the engine runs at exactly 210... as long as you're in motion and above idle. A quick poke around revealed that my fan clutch was on the loose side, so a replacement is on the way. That brings us up to around the end of January. Just in time to make another update about what I've done since then... :papers:

Yeah, listen to 91Pioneer. That CD unit would clash with your interior Don. Not enough chrome. It'd look a lot better against the black trim in mine, methinks. :D The Kenwood KDC-852 is the least hideous aftermarket headunit I've come across. Still gaudy and very clashing with the "boxes everywhere" interior design of the MJ. The factory tape decks just look so much better. To be honest, pretty much all of the aftermarket things I can think of are uglier than their factory counterparts.

I've also experienced leaks in that area coming from where the heater box meets the firewall by the blower motor.

Perhaps you could try a thinner oil next time? I briefly (had to change it after 500 miles due to the possibility of having aluminum shavings in the oil, long story) ran Rotella T6, which is a 5W-40 oil. At the time I had no working oil pressure gauge but it seemed to build oil pressure and turn off the idiot light significantly faster and slightly quiet my typical noisy 4.0 valvetrain. Naturally, you'll get 30 opinions from 20 people anytime you ask about oil, but T6 specifically comes highly recommended.

I was in the parts store parking lot changing out my wiper blades and checking fluids last weekend. Maybe took me 35 minutes tops. In that time, 2 different people came to talk to me about it, and one offered to buy. It's nice driving around something people appreciate, and I don't see myself ever getting tired of talking to people about it.