Minuit

Aftermarket weatherstripping? It's garbage. About the only thing you can do is make sure it's seated completely.

All the SCs I've seen have had a black interior with vinyl buckets. There were 2 kinds of vinyl - a flat basic pattern and the "perforated" vinyl that one looks like it has. Pretty rare, and I need a clean maroon set for my '89

It looks wrong with the 2dr doors. Totally out of proportion. I respect the work that went into it though. Kinda sad to see such a low mileage MJ get hacked up, but who knows, it could've been rusty or something.

Damn, that does look good.

Yeah, the connector for the front lighting harness is notorious for this. That's the first place I would check.

I gots a set of those coming too. Will see how they do in my truck and see how they affect the numbers.

It certainly won't hurt, but don't expect it to cut down road or wind noise. Dynamat and those kinds of products work wonders on highly resonant panels that make noise when they vibrate but they won't block noise from passing through them (which is what road noise is). For example, a whole sheet of Dynamat on the roof made driving in the rain much more pleasant - no more noise from rain hitting the roof, and about 50% coverage on the doors made them sound a little better when they close too.

Prepare for disappointment - I'm just saying this because I installed about 30 sqft of Dynamat in my truck and it was almost no help. The last 2 pages of my build thread have some discussion on this and some real numbers. In short, nearly full coverage of dynamat made very little change either to my ears or a sound pressure meter - fully lining the floors and cab wall with mass loaded vinyl reduced overall cab noise by 5-8 decibels. That's without doing the doors and without fixing any wind noise.

I spent about 2 hours looking for it last weekend. No luck.

No reply option on desktop for me either.

I wasn't going to post them, but I have taken some preliminary sound readings: 55 mph: 70 dBA 65 mph, behind a semi with very little noticeable wind noise: 71 dBA 80 mph in heavy headwinds: fluctuated but the highest number seen was 76 dBA 70 mph in moderate wind: 73.5 dBA Previously, at 70 mph in moderate wind I recorded a very consistent 78 dBA. At 55mph with no noticeable wind noise, readings varied from 75-76 dBA. All were taken with the same situation as before - radio off, A/C on but on the lowest fan setting, both windows all the way up. The sock on my meter is about at nose level in the middle of the cab. All readings are A-weighted, not sure if I ever mentioned this. My SPL meter is this one. Fun fact: don't take sound measurements with your phone. I downloaded a few different apps on a few different phones: my Motorola Nexus 6, my mom's LG G3, my old LG G3 (the two G3s didn't even agree with eachother), and my dad's Galaxy S7 and every different configuration gave vastly different readings, some disagreeing by about 20 dB! Don't bother taking measurements if you don't have a real meter, preferably one that displays which scale it is recording in. Here's a site with a huge list of readings from modern European cars. Irritatingly, they don't indicate what weighting these readings are in. dBA gives significantly less weight to low frequency noise than dBC, for example - without knowing the weighting of two sound measurements they cannot be directly compared. dBA is the most common one to see. Maybe they're in unweighted decibels, but most meters out there record in dBA. Without clearly defined and appropriate units, your measurement is useless! For some more useless but neat measurements, Motorweek reviewed the XJ in 1984 and got a reading of 74 dB at 55, calling it "just short of loud" My goal for this project is 68 dBA at 70 mph. I think that's achievable - I have more room to work with still. Keep in mind that I have done nothing to the doors (this means I have 2 huge holes in my "bubble" that line up directly with my ears) and nothing that could affect wind noise in any way (at the moment, I'm piecing together a full set of NOS weatherstripping). When not in the wind, the difference in noise from before is substantial and immediately noticeable. The minor pinion bearing noise that used to come from directly behind me now comes from the passenger side armrest. On a side note, I've been very impressed with my Michelin Defenders on this truck. Much better handling, much quieter, and much rounder than the Coopers I had on here previously. I know some of you guys have good luck with Cooper tires, but after what I went through having 2/4 tires being out of round from brand new, they're firmly in the "never again" pile.

I think he's talking about a floor shift XJ cable. Bet it'll be too short, the floor shift cable comes out at the base of the trans tunnel and the column shift cable comes out at the top D/S firewall.

Can the aftermarket not even get that right? Here are some delicious Chrysler part numbers for your enjoyment: On 1/27/91 they changed from mounting with nuts to being glued taped on. Here's the part numbers for the older ones. I think the header panels all have the holes for the studs anyway? J is 55010901 e is 55010902 p is 55010903 The full set in chrome is 55294922.

Start with an infrared thermometer. Need to get another idea of what's going on. They aren't precision devices but should be accurate enough to get a better picture. If the engine is running just under boil-over temp then you need to know. That's still the first I've heard of the idiot light being "analog" so it's very possible you have the wrong sender, and if you had a gauge it would read in the normal range. The closed loop cooling system is a pain in the @$$ and has no benefit over the later, mostly self-burping open loop system. Converting it will save you headaches in the future.

Is it weird for me to want a 242 partly because that means both the PART TIME and FULL TIME lights in my cluster will have a purpose?

Just popping in to add that my brake lights also quit working because the plug for the turn signal switch came loose somehow. No other symptoms - must have been just one or two of the contacts. I felt really stupid after jumping the brake light switch to the body harness in the middle of the night so I could drive it, getting home, tracing the wiring diagram to the turn signal switch, and noticing half of the connector wasn't latched.

Does it to me too since yesterday.

Ok, someone please set this straight for me... Do the carpeted dash mats available for the XJ/MJ have a separate piece for the glove box, or is it all one part? The reason I ask is that my new dash is almost perfect except for a tiny split on top of the cover. A dash mat should cover it fine, but I don't really want to cover up the glove box.

Of course :)

Here is the bracket - the slotted holes attach to the fender mount, and the threaded holes mount to the antenna assembly. I guess it is kind of a stretch to call it an L bracket Also shown is the wiring, which assumes you're using a Chrysler factory radio. All Chrysler factory radios I've tested, tape decks and AM-FMs, are compatible with the power antenna. The wiring should be the same for at least 88-96, since the p/n for the antenna never changed. The actual location of the relay may change, but I haven't looked at enough XJs to say for sure. I was really going for the OEM look, so I removed the ANT fuse's connector from an XJ at the junkyard and added it to my fusebox. It's just a 2-part Pak-Con connector, so you can buy it new and crimp it yourself. That's the first time I've used the forum's image hosting! Neat, but I noticed it takes a while for the post to show up.

I want to say there is going to be automatic resizing in the future. But if there isn't, I can't really use it. Most of my pics are ~1 MB each, more with my new phone.

I finally don't have to look at those damn holes in the door panels anymore... My new phone can take panoramic pics. I suck at making them look decent.

You want an 87-90 cluster with a blue housing. An 84-86 can be made to work if you change the speedometer (or cable). A 91-92 cluster will not work without significant changes - the speedometer is electric, almost all of the gauges have different inputs, one of the connectors is different, etc.

This crap again............ I'd buy the hell out of what Eagle made. This thing? No way.