Minuit

Unless Photobucket either goes back on their "give us $400 a year to host pics" decision or the owner of the pics manually moves them to a better host, they're gone. You can see them if you right click on them and open them in a new tab.

Probably your best option right here.

I think I remember reading that there are some minor differences in programming between the auto and manual ECUs, but it should work just fine.

"Just go to the junkyard and get one" is a less useful answer with every day that passes. It's gotten so bad where I live that it took me 3 months to find a grey 84-96 dashboard in good shape and even it isn't perfect. A couple of years ago, back when every junkyard had 5 XJs to pick from, finding one would've been a one-day affair. It's a shame really. I've seen one Renix XJ in a junkyard all summer. Rockauto has Pioneer CA 3068. It very unhelpfully doesn't mention whether that's a 2wd or 4wd cable. I THINK it's 2wd based on a few other people asking the same thing but can't say for sure. Auto vs. manual should be interchangeable. The parts manual only differentiates between 4.0L vs 2.5L, cruise vs no cruise, and 2wd vs 4wd.

That seems like a good idea considering that the cables snap sometimes. I wonder why they quit offering it?

Ok, I must have missed it somehow because my 87 brochure says it too. It lists the Trac-Lok rear, off-road package, and MT package as coming with the D44. None of those packages mention the D44 in my August '87 printed brochure for the '88 model year though. I'm sure some slipped through the cracks and I'm sure at some point someone was sweet-talked into slipping a D44 under an '88 shortbed. I'm done arguing about this. His truck has a D44 no matter who put it there. Without the build sheet we'll never know :)

Coolant temp sensor resistance values (intake air sensor will be the same) Temp *F Ohms 212 185 160 450 100 1600 70 3400 40 7500 20 13500 0 25000

Check the vacuum line to the MAP sensor on the firewall again. I had this exact problem on my 89 and it turned out that the vacuum feed line to the MAP had a crack in it. Check it very closely, the crack in mine was VERY small and I had to look very carefully to see it. The sensor is very sensitive. Ohm specs for the sensors coming, gotta look at my FSMs.

You have to use the "direct link" option and paste the link into the little picture icon when making your post. I don't think it lets you imbed albums, just single images. That looks like a very nice truck. I wouldn't worry too much about anything, just the basics like everyone has said. 91s and 92s are the best of the breed.

Imgur is what I use for all of my pics. Just sign up for an account, add your images, and when you go to post the photo on CC make sure to use the "direct link"

Hey, considering that HOs make up somewhere from 5-10% of Comanches, it's not a bad bet to start with the Renix tips :)

Work is just beginning, this pic is from a while ago. Time for a little change of furniture! Found this very rare '91 Briarwood dash bezel on eBay. It's classier and less shiny than the Country version, not to mention less likely to crack. AMC DNR radio for display purposes only. I plan on finding a set of Country door panels with worn out wood on the tops and wrapping them to match the dash bezel.

Oh yeah, if one of you grabs the radio can you get me a few inches of the harness that comes from the dash too? Thanks much :)

If the radio is still in it I'll pay you to grab it for me. Working or not.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/84-96-JEEP-CHEROKEE-OEM-Full-Set-Of-Seat-Covers-MAROON-VERY-NICE-Rare-/201968380509?hash=item2f0640ea5d:g:Qk0AAOSwz71ZU~ds&vxp=mtr Would've bought these for my red truck but they're way too nice for how I use it. These are correct for 88-90 basic bucket seats but should fit any year as long as they don't have the big bolsters.

Very nice truck! You did a great job cutting out the tach for the gear indicator :)

If it helps anyone, I ordered samples from Stockinteriors and the closest match to my eyes to the OEM grey carpet is Mist Grey, code 8019. The shade is pretty much dead on but the OEM grey carpet has a little bit more blue. It's an almost exact match for the carpet on grey door panels, too. The other greys wouldn't look half bad though. The regular cutpile carpet is comparable to if not a little better than the OEM carpet in feel, but the backing on the OEM carpet is much higher quality. The "ultra plush" carpet is much thicker than OEM. Rockauto doesn't have as many colors as Stockinteriors but they're the cheapest way to go if they have the color you want. Stockinteriors seems to have a lot more colors than anyone else.

I don't doubt that the WJ is the better option if you're willing to modify the firewall, but I'd never be able to live with myself if I did that on my truck. I've had a 96 XJ booster sitting in my garage for almost 3 years now. Shows you how fast I move :dunce:

The most common places to find them are either tucked underneath the seat springs or behind one of the door panels. If this can be proven as a factory install it would be the first example I've ever seen of a stock SWB with a D44. If someone swapped that in (still what I'm leaning towards) they did a half decent job. I see some other things that aren't quite as they were from the factory. But don't take this as me knocking your truck, that's an absolute gem of a truck you have as far as I'm concerned :)

apparently (from what I've been told) some later years could have been had with the 44 under a short bed (some sort of offroad package?). but only long beds had the metric ton package. If so it was never "officially" available from what I've seen. I have brochures up to 91 and none make any mention of the heavy duty axle except in the MT package. I could see it happening though. Possibly a case of "well, if you REALLY want it..."

I prefer the floor shifter too, but column shift with a tilt wheel was a pretty rare option on these trucks. May have been swapped in, considering short beds never came with a D44.

No!!! Not the squiggles! :rotfl2: I wonder how many squiggles managed to leave the factory. Maybe a couple thousand tops? According to this study, about 12% of light trucks live to be 25 years old. There can't be many squigglies left.

Start on about page 8 or so if you want to read through the whole thing. One thing I've seen so far (I'm on pg. 18 right now) is that the measurements suggest that Peel 'n Seal and I would assume by extension the other duct insulation type products are next to useless as a CLD. You can also see the owner of Sound Deadener Showdown being an @$$ to the guy conducting the tests. Good stuff John, thanks for posting :thumbsup: Also, I don't think it's highlighted in the results post at the end but his testing strongly suggests that FatMat is literally just Peel 'n' Seal in a different box.

I decided to drag the working part of my collection (except for the Dolby unit in my '89) out for a pic. There's actually 3 more, they just don't work. All except the AMC decks and the 56002467 in the middle were either bought to sell or are currently the guinea pig for new ideas, but they decorate my house just fine for now. Now ask why my AC overhaul (or much of anything else) on the '91 isn't done yet! Notice a new addition? Say hello to the 8936001127. That's its AMC Eagle part number, but it is identical to the nicest non-cassette radio you could get in your new Jeep, Renault, or AMC circa 1987. This one is in almost pristine condition. I suspect it was probably removed sometime in the 90s or early 2000s and put in a box, because this isn't what a radio that gets used every day for 31 years looks like. Side note, the AMC decks store your radio presets after the battery has been disconnected! I noticed this when I came back to take this pic today. The radio had been totally unhooked from power since last night but my stored radio stations were still there. Another cool feature that makes me still think that these long forgotten AMC radios are worth looking at.

You've got the basics right. You won't lose anything by covering everything in CLD/dynamat but it's an area of diminishing returns for sure. Foam is to stop things from touching eachother. MLV doesn't work very well if it's right up against a vibrating panel. Technically you could put almost any soft foam between the CLD and MLV but the most common recommendation is neoprene foam rubber since it doesn't really absorb water and it's pretty sturdy. I'd definitely suggest MLV on the B-pillar almost up to the roof to block as much wind noise as possible from the cab vents. Those have always been a problem for me on my trucks. Here's 40 sqft of MLV on Amazon with free prime shipping. Second Skin has a pretty good reputation from what I've seen but they're expensive. I would definitely do the firewall and floor first so you only need to rip out the whole interior once. You can always come back and do the other stuff later. The more complete your coverage of MLV is the better.