Minuit

I wonder why that could be? :D

I already grabbed one for myself, might as well share. I mistyped a part number for a radio and found a number of NOS power window/lock switch panels with switches on eBay. These are what you want to add power windows and locks to a Comanche (or 2-door XJ) Sadly, no door handle is included but you can swap over your old one. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X56007219.TRS0&_nkw=56007219&_sacat=0

I agree. I very, very rarely use the tape deck, and for a guy like me it's extra frustration because the tape decks are an extra point of failure and hard to source parts for. The main advantage of going with a tape deck is the extremely easy aux input, not the use of the tape. The Chrysler era AM/FMs don't have the TP371 and TP471 pins. Not that that would stop you from soldering an input cable somewhere else. They just don't show up very often, so I haven't gotten as many chances to play around with them. Once I get a chance there's one in the '89. I'll pull it out and poke around in it.

A "crank no start" situation that fixes itself after a few hours (usually when the sensor cools off) is a common failure mode of the CPS.

Both my '89 and '91 owners manuals say at "any legal speed" as well. I take that to mean up to at least 70 mph, although I don't know what kind of situation would necessitate shifting into 4hi at that kind of speed.

Glad you're back :thumbsup:

Not as common as the AM/FM/Cassettes but they're out there. None of them to my knowledge have the aux input pins, so any aux input added would need to be slightly more creative. In the AMC era you see them more often. In the Chrysler days they only came on the very most basic XJs and MJs, so I assume most people opted for the cassette player. I have a 94-96 one in my red truck right now, and it sounds perfectly fine. I like the sliding bass/treble controls. Edit from the future: With a bigger sample size, the AM-FM only Chrysler decks are roughly as common as the cassette decks.

Damn. Damn. Someone buy this before I do.

(for the record, I did reply to A-man but it was via PM. I'd rather leave business to PMs.) I really don't know much about antennas. I rarely listen to FM myself but the stock antenna has always been fine as long as they're making a good connection. There's a connector for it under the right side of the dash with a spring inside that can get corroded . I'd find that connector and make sure it is plugged in properly. Some people unplug it and remove the spring also, but on my truck the spring is still in there and my FM reception is great.

Just the right amount of crazy. I like it.

That sounds like they all do. You've got nothing to worry about.

They actually have service manuals for these things? Color me impressed; I didn't think they would have something like that for radios back then. I figured it was "if it works, great! If not, we'll order you a replacement free of charge!" type of deal. If you want to take the time to scan it, I'd be interested in reading it! I haven't ever found one for a Jeep radio newer than 1988. That's a shame because they're really helpful. Pinouts of all of the integrated circuits, PCB layouts. Neat stuff. I'll be able to get to it this weekend. This week is finals week, and well... I've spent too much time talking about radios this week as it is. :)

Oh yes - Red, forgot to mention this. I have the full service manual for the AMC Dolby unit. If you think it could be useful, I could send you some scans of it. If you're feeling lucky I'd love the chance to get my own hands on it too, but my tentative guess is that the heat burned up a component related to the FM tuner.

Looks like another variation on the 2467. The ad is ambiguous as to whether or not it works. I wouldn't bid any higher than about $40 shipped on it, but if nobody else bids that's an ok deal. That's a YJ bracket, but I can't tell you at this very moment whether or not the XJ bracket will bolt on. I imagine it probably would. If it turns out not to work then there's things we can do to fix them. I was kinda hoping you'd chime in eventually! I'm sad to say I'm not surprised by your Dolby unit's overheating issues. These radios actually use dual chip amplifiers (which are 4-ohm stable themselves), but the heat sinking on them can sometimes be insufficient for extended use at high volume - those old chips waste a lot of energy as heat. Also, the amplifiers are mounted very close to several electrolytic capacitors. The Chrysler era radios use a much larger finned heat sink and have better thermal isolation for the parts overall. I'd be willing to bet that this is the main reason these quit working - the amps burn the capacitors up. If I were to install an AMC unit in a truck, I would only do it with just 2 4-ohm speakers, or 4 8-ohm speakers. I suspect you could get away with running 4 4-ohm speakers by installing an external amp (which I highly recommend anyway) and turning the gain up to offload the work from the internal amplifiers. Kind of a bummer, because my Dolby unit sounds great too. Every time I've used a tape adapter (not very often) in my Chrysler radios it went into metal tape mode. I bet the "tape" in the adapter is similar to what a metal cassette would have. I do like the mechanical cassette transport. I suspect the DNR radio uses a very similar cassette transport to the later Chrysler offerings. Accordingly they're probably a source of problems. Edit from the future: The DNR cassette mechanism is even more complex than the Chrylser version. From my small sample size it actually seems more reliable, but kinda finicky. Thanks very much for your input. Do you mind if I add some of it to the main post?

Going in order, It started as a collection, but it's kinda morphed into a small side-business. At the moment I sell by request - the CC member who bought the 88 radio reached out to me asking what the best radio was for his needs - turned out to be the 88 radio in the pics. All of these radios have the same single DIN form factor and all will fit 84-96 XJs and MJs. The AMC radios have a different plug arrangement and antenna, but all of the Chrysler radios are interchangeable. The years each radio was original equipment are listed in the main post, but you can put any of them in any truck. Edit from the future: The antenna plug on AMC radios only looks different. It works with the Chrysler connector. The one with the best FM reception seems to be the 56002467, which is the one with the green display and DX button. Actually, it's the best one all around in every category other than raw power without an amp hooked up, not a concern if you want to use an amp also. Sadly, they are very difficult to come by since they were last used in 1991. I can point you to a couple of eBay listings, but they're IMO overpriced for what you're getting. The 92-93 56009004 should also be pretty good, since it shares a lot of similarities with the 2467 on the inside and uses a lot of the same components, but I can't say for sure, but I have one on the way. The 94-96 56007214 IMO is unremarkable. It's the only one that has the "MPS" lettering on the Seek button. It really doesn't do anything better than the others in my opinion, which makes it an ok 3rd choice. Sadly it's also the most common. All non-AMC cassette decks are much, much easier to add an aux input to - the 2467 works best with this. I combine adding the aux-in cable with adjustment of the AM radio volume. I have a prototype aux input solution on one of the AMC decks, but I'd really like to keep the one I have. If you don't care about having the cassette player you may also consider the AM-FM only radios. They aren't as super easy to add aux input to as the cassette decks, but it can be done. I did a writeup of installing a tiny Alpine 45Wx4 amp in my '91 on the last page. I'm very, very, very pleased with the results. So much so that I recommend at least a small amp to anyone who wants to retrofit a stock system into their truck - the way I did it keeps the wiring completely original as well. If you can't tell, I really don't do brief answers :)

While we're on the subject of '88 radios, the one pictured is no longer in my possession. I sold it to a member on here and performed a basic service including adjusting the tape deck, replacing the buttons and giving it it a good cleaning up. Before, with worn out buttons, etc. The tape deck worked, and played at the proper speed. I usually find these to play slightly fast for some reason. However, when ejecting the tape the transport would cycle back and forth, and never give you the tape back. That's a very common problem. To fix it, carefully bend the tab circled in red outwards. If it doesn't depress a switch next to it enough, the transport will cycle endlessly. After bending the tab, the deck should spit out the tape without taking it in again. You should have to push the tape in for the automatic transport to kick in. The capstans, play head, and rollers looked great, and the belt was in good shape. I doubt this radio has played many tapes. If you want to replace the belt, it's on the underside of the cassette module under a protective plate. For this service I elected not to. I then replaced the worn buttons and replaced the foam backing behind them. The buttons now stand to attention as they should and feel much nicer to press. After a good cleaning, and unsticking the treble and bass knobs, it looked as good as it ever has. Like a new old radio! These '88 radios have some "early version weirdness" - the faceplates are unique, the internal layout is different, and illumination bulbs are soldered on rather than in twist-lock bases.

My 89's engine has probably been making single digit warm idle pressure for 10 years, and it's somehow still kicking. These are durable engines, don't sweat it :thumbsup: Of course, verify the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge. You may be pleasantly surprised. If the pressures are really that low, I might not pull the head to replace lifters if I was in your position. The readings are in spec, but they are barely within spec.

You need the wiper switch inside the column and a little control box under the dash. The wiring is all there but swapping the switch isn't easy. The wipers parking off the windshield is probably the plastic bushings in the wiper linkages. Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk

That's a little low. My '91's original engine is in good shape and makes 60 psi cold idle, 40 psi warm idle, and 60 psi on the highway. Readings were verified by a mechanical gauge and the truck has Mopar senders. The oil pressure jumps immediately from 40 to about 55 psi taking off from a stop once warm. The factory says 13psi at hot idle is the minimum allowable level, and that it should be between 37 and 75 psi above 1600 rpm.

The 4.0 is a great engine, but let's not fool ourselves. 190hp and 225 ft-lb is nothing by modern standards. My other vehicle is 21 years old now and has "only" 205 hp and 280 ft-lb and it embarrasses the MJs at any speed by a huge margin. That said, I'm a little bit of an I6 purist and GM engines don't really do anything for me. IMO the best way to keep an old Jeep in the modern era performance wise is a stroker. Dino Savva reports a 0-60 of 5.9s and a 1/4 mile time of 14.55s with a 4.6L stroker in a 5 speed XJ. I really doubt the typical stroker gives that kind of results, but that shows it can be done. IIRC he had a ton of miles on his stroker too.

Say it with me kids... this is why we don't use the crank bolt to pull on a harmonic balancer! I keep saying this and I feel like I'm just talking to myself! There's not enough thread engagement to do it safely! I know you know this Cheyenne, but this should be an example to anyone who still suggests doing this. I think this is the right way to go. I believe the crank bolt is 1/2-20. On a critical bolt like that I'd use red loctite when putting the helicoil in as an extra safety measure.

My first ever wrenching experience was my '91, which hadn't been driven for 8 years at the time I took ownership. It wasn't that bad getting started. Compared to modern stuff an MJ is downright crude in some respects, and if you're a novice that's a good thing. The MJ's capabilities are perfectly in line with your needs.

Yeah, the power seat mechanisms are significantly taller. About as tall as the manual rocker buckets in early XJs if I recall. The XJ's floor pan is flat and the MJ's isn't. To keep the same seating position in the XJ, they changed the length of the seat pedestals depending on what type of seats you had. That's not an option in the MJ, since the MJ bucket seat pedestals are basically as low as you can get them in the rear anyway due to the heavy slope of the floor.

5'11, 210ish. Picture the average American and that's a stunningly close image, not that that's a good thing. The MJ interior fits me like a glove. I have it back all the way and I don't recline very far. For what it's worth I gained some legroom when I went from a bench to manual buckets.

This. I even feel bad pulling parts off of junkyard MJs sometimes.