Minuit

95 XJ also. I agree, replace it with the dual diaphragm booster of your choice. Don't just get a stock replacement, now is a good chance to upgrade. The 99-04 WJ booster requires the firewall lip to be bent out of the way (for me a deal breaker) but is easier in other ways. For a 1987 truck, both the 95-96 XJ and 99-04 WJ boosters will need the pushrod modified. There are a number of excellent writeups on swapping both the XJ and WJ boosters.

On the '91 and '92 MJs the light is controlled by the computer. On the Renix MJs it's a "dumb" timer. It just counts like Eagle said. The 91 and 92s can have the light reset with the proper scan tool (MT2500, DRB-II, etc) but most people just pull the bulb and forget about it. It's just the early incarnation of maintenance minders you see on newer cars. It hasn't gone away.

Nice!!! I'd totally be in for a plain Comanche one in grey/silver. Doubly so if you make one with the squiggly SporTruck stripes :thumbsup:

Yeah, buy new. At that age heater cores are a time bomb. A friend of mine had the heater core pop on their 12 year old car. It's a fairly straightforward job but there's a lot of screws and bolts to keep track of for a novice. The dash and HVAC box has to come completely out. If you have A/C it needs to be evacuated. Keep track of how everything went together and you'll be fine. As far as heater cores go, it's a pretty easy one.

And even then, imagine finding all of the sensors. That option was discontinued in what, 85 or 86?

That's an old style serpentine condenser. Dunno about the quality of the compressor but it says "made in China" for what it's worth.

Alright, so with Photobucket screwing everyone over with their new hotlinking policy many of the writeups on this list that were working before now have no pics. I'm going to start moving pics over to my own imgur account. I'll be marking the ones with broken pics with a regular asterisk. This will be a tedious job but you can help out! Here's how: - Find a writeup that has broken pics that say "100% third party hosting usage" on them. All photos that are hosted on Photobucket really need to be moved, but the ones that are broken are a priority. The more an image is seen the more likely it is to be broken. Some pics may work now, but once more people have looked at them they may break. - Right click on the "100% third party hosting usage" pics, and click on "open in new tab" or whatever the equivalent for your browser is. The picture should now show up. - Download these pics to your hard drive - Upload them to www.imgur.com - Send links of these re-uploaded photos to either me or an admin as well as the title of the writeup. I have editing privileges on the DIY forum so I can replace pictures in writeups.

Yes, moving the pics to imgur would probably be the best way to go for now. It'll be a big job but will help a lot of people out. I for one would be very happy to get some help doing that. :thumbsup:

I think on a 92 the lines still just use regular hex flare nuts. I know my 91 does. Is that compressor in the kit new? New Sanden compressors are fairly easy to find. I know for my 91 there's a kit on Rockauto with the (new) compressor, expansion valve, drier, and an O-ring kit for about 200 bucks. If you're converting to 134a the oil needs to be flushed out as I'm sure you know. When you replace the parts you'll get a good part of it out but it's still a good idea to flush the system to get all of the old mineral oil out. R-134a does not mix with the mineral oil that was used with R-12. If you're converting to 134a it'll cool better with a parallel flow condenser (looks like a radiator instead of a single serpentine tube). There's an aftermarket parallel flow condenser out there for not too much money. APDI Pro or something like that. If I were you I'd probably spring for as many new hoses as you could get, since the new hoses should be made from barrier hose that will do a better job of keeping the R-134a in. Or... you could go with R-152a aka difluoroethane computer duster and reportedly cool almost as well as R-12. I want to try it eventually but I just haven't had the chance yet. All of the above still applies. If using R-152a charge with 56% of the original R-12 charge weight. Late edit: Real Sanden compressors for the 91-93 systems are NOT easy to find. The "official" compressor from Sanden is aftermarket. The Sanden 4727 compressor for the 94-96 model years is still available, but who knows for how long.

Yeah, I was looking through the DIY index just now. Pretty depressing to see just how many good articles are useless now.

I've always used Imgur but that site is getting more and more bloated. As long as you ignore the cringeworthy social media side of it it makes a fine image host... for now, until it goes the way of Photobucket too.

Nothing at all. It's just empty space.

I have successfully tested a very broken 56009004 with very crude RCA pre-outs. Initial results with my Alpine amp are promising, although I'm sure there will be bugs to work out. If you are interested in helping with this project, I will be needing volunteers with amplifiers in their vehicles to test on a variety of setups. I am considering lending a prototype RCA-equipped radio to a small number of highly trusted CC members for evaluation purposes. Send me a PM for more details. Last page, I mentioned that the AM-FM radios don't show up very often. Since saying that I've had 7 Chrysler AM-FMs come through my shop. I also owe you an aux input technique for them, so here goes. Thanks insomnia! First off: almost all of the AM-FM decks are exactly the same inside for our purposes. The only exception I can think of are the Korean "Automatic Radio" series, distinguishable by their "early" black display, no clock, and brown buttons. These are by no means common. Our patient today is this 56007519: When I do this I normally need to get behind the faceplate to do other things, so I pop the faceplate off. The wires we're interested in also connect to the board that houses the volume knob, so you can also access it there. This is the normal workflow I follow, though. NOTE: To remove the faceplate properly, the top and bottom covers both need to be removed first. If you don't do this, you can break the faceplate. When putting things back together, the faceplate must go on before the top or bottom covers or it won't fit properly - it will bulge out at the middle. I have seen a few "refurbished" radios on eBay listed at exorbitant prices that have been put back together improperly in this way. Removing the faceplate on one of these is pretty simple. The top and bottom covers have one screw each. Once the screws are out, pry them up at the back of the unit and lift them off. Pull the tone knobs straight off, pull the volume and fader knob straight off, and release a plastic catch on each side of the radio. The catch on the left side of the radio can be a pain. Once the faceplate is off, you'll see this (except hopefully the lights will not be on, since you shouldn't be doing this with power connected - these pics were taken after finishing work on this particular radio.) See the connector above the treble slider? All audio signals pass through this connector before being amplified. Enhance! If you're adding an aux input, the two signal wires of interest to you are pins 5 and 6, counting from the right. As I've helpfully written on the connector itself, 6 corresponds to the left channel and 5 corresponds to the right channel. These pins carry the signal to the tone controls. You need to inject your signal into these wires somehow. How you do this is up to you and your particular installation. If you so desire, these pins can be removed from the other end of the connector by lifting up on the plastic catch above each contact.

Never been a fan of photobucket and this just makes me not like it even more. I can't imagine how much work it would be to go back through and re-do all of my pictures. That sucks man :(

BWD, either series, is worse than nothing at all. I have literally never had a part of theirs last a year before failing. Avoid at all costs. I don't really have a positive attitude towards any aftermarket part, but I have a special hatred for Broken When Delivered.

I did an almost complete coating of real Dynamat on my truck. The only worthwhile thing it did was make raindrops hitting the roof very quiet. Dynamat or anything like it does not block sound, it stops panels from vibrating. There was no noticeable or measurable change in road, engine, or wind noise. 78 dB before, 78 dB after. I would only use Dynamat or equivalent sparingly on panels that easily vibrate, like doors and the roof.

Added a new 7519 AM/FM to the list.

I don't know who started this rumor, but it just will not die... 2 DOOR CHEROKEE REAR FLARES DO NOT FIT ON A COMANCHE! The Crown kit will work fine for the front. I'm running the Crown stock replacement retainers on my 91 and I have no complaints. It's pretty much an exact reproduction of the factory part.

The 91-93 parts book has 52002497 for MJ, 52006394 for XJ up to 3-1-93, and 52009108 for XJ after 3-1-93 The 87-90 parts book has 52002497 for MJ, 52000097 for XJ 87-89, and 52006221 for XJ 1990. So the MJ distribution block stayed the same at least 87-92 according to the book.

Bricklin SV-1

The load sensing valve adjusts braking based on the distance from the bed to the axle, so on a stock vehicle more stuff in the bed = bed closer to axle. When you lift the rear end, you change this relationship. To get the stock behavior back, you need to lengthen the rod going from the valve to the axle by the amount you lifted the rear.

I've been giving this car a steady trickle of attention. In keeping with my promise of not being interesting, I've mostly done really boring stuff. I replaced the differential mounting bushings with polyurethane Energy Suspension parts. I didn't take pics, because by the time I thought to get my camera out I was almost done. A very easy job, and it greatly improved the feel of the car. The "thunk" I was experiencing when accelerating is almost totally gone now. Topped off the A/C. Ever since I got the car, the A/C has worked "just kinda ok". It never declined in performance, but it never really worked well. Based on a few factors, I figured it was low on refrigerant. (it's not Freon!) 73°F air on recirculate is good, right? When it threw a code for a short-cycling compressor I decided to check the running pressures... Hahaha, that's terrible! It was about 85 outside that day, so I should be seeing high side pressures at least over 200 psi! This is indicative of a system very low on refrigerant. Sure enough, after adding almost an entire can of R-134a, the pressures were in the right ballpark and I was blowing 45 degree air out of the vents. The high side valve leaks a little bit unless jimmied just the right way. Eventually I'll evacuate the system and replace the valve assembly, but it seems to be doing fine for now. Found some NOS Genuine Ford floor mats. Too bad they're in blue, but they were cheap and at least they aren't actively a hazard to my health by bunching up under the pedals! They fit pretty well overall: I'm slowly turning my interior blue without trying to. I wish I could find the correct grey parts, but compared to Jeeps a grey interior is downright rare in these cars. Of course, there were a lot more options. Off the top of my head, green, blue, maroon, tan, slightly lighter tan, grey, and grey with a black dash were all options at some point on the 94-97 MN12 cars. I can't find any pics to back me up, but I think I've even seen purple. On a side note, I've been pleasantly surprised with how well stuff fits together in this car, even if the quality of some plastics is questionable. I added an aux input to the original radio. It works ok-ish, but my research tells me I don't quite have the right radio for it. There's an eBay store selling single DIN Ford radios with aux inputs, but all of them either say "REV ERSE" on the tape buttons or have an eject button that sticks out. Next time I'm at the junkyard, I'll look for another radio. These radios are fully chip-controlled, and rather than the signal passing through volume and tone knobs, the signal passes through an audio processor chip. On my particular radio, the chip is a "70029SB" aka an ST Micro TDA7306. I'm not going to pay $145(damn, I typically let my Jeep radios go for $100 or less and I don't even put anti-tamper tape on them) to figure out what the eBay seller did, but I doubt it was anything extremely clever. I also found the build sheet. It was stuffed behind the trunk liner near the fuel filler. There's nothing really interesting on it, but it's neat to have. I did find out that my car was made on May 7, 1996 - that means I predate this car by exactly one week! That was a Tuesday, by the way.

That's no radio part number I've ever seen either. A quick search of it comes back with nothing radio related. If it truly is a '96 XJ Cherokee radio, it's either a 56007519 or 56007214.

Yep. ACC is the company that makes the carpets, Stockinteriors and the others just resell them. Rockauto sells the same stuff for cheaper than any of them.

Every one of those retailers sells ACC products. They're the only ones that make carpets for the Comanche.