dscowell

Leak the brake booster. Problem solved.

I was driving my truck and was having a lack of throttle response. I'd floor it and it would putter a long and want to speed up but couldn't. It sounded like at one point it was back firing but the sound was near the manifold not the cat. Pulled out of the way and turned my truck off. Started it back up and it had a terrible start idled at about 250rpms then shot up to 2000 then back down to 250. Didn't seem to be a timing or vacuum problem. Any ideas? 1990 4.0L

You would think this stuff would be straight forward but I guess not. After I get everything done, I may do a short write up and try to sift through all the info so people like me who know nothing about this stuff can understand it a little easier.

Thanks for all the input and links guys. What I see to be getting from all the reading is CLD stops vibrations in the metal but doesn't actually block any sound. CCF is pretty much just a inbetween lay that doesn't provide much of any sound deadening. MLV is the heavy stuff that actually deadens sound. That seems to be the jist of it, correct me if i'm wrong though. With all that in mind, I feel like it would be wise to put the CLD on pretty much every surface I can. One of the websites said only 25% of an area needs to be covered another said 60%. I'm thinking I should just do the full 100% since I'm not really sure where the 25% most effective area would be and I'd rather not tear everything apart again if I don't have to. I'm thinking firewall to back sliding window, roof and possibly doors (may not have money for doors right now). After the CLD is down then a layer of CCF. Since it's suggested to not put down MLV on roofs or hoods (since it's heavy) I'm thinking I won't need to put any CCF on the roof of the truck. All I have read says it doesn't do a whole lot to block sound and I'd rather not spend money and time on something that won't help at all. After that lay down the MLV from the firewall to back window. That should pretty much do it right? Anywhere else you guys suggest I lay some material down? I'm also thinking about going with Second Skin. http://store.secondskinaudio.com/ Atleast for the MLV and CLD. Anyone else recommend another company? I've heard mixed reviews on dynapad so I'm a little weary.

What's everyone using for interior insulation whether it's in their MJ or another vehicle? I've head Dynamat makes good products but then I hear people by cheap stuff from the hardware store and it's just as good and half the price. I wan't to put it on the floor, above the headliner and where ever else I can put some.

That was the first thing that came to mind! Could it possibly be anything else?

The past 2 years I have been having noise coming from my rear drive line. It start around the summer 2 years ago and stayed til around December that same year. The noise finally stopped when my rear u-joint on the axle end of my drive shaft blew up on me, lucky the axle pinion and driveshaft stayed intact. I replaced the U-joints and I didn't hear the noise come back until this summer and this time I made sure to replace them before they blew up again. Once again replacing the joints stopped the noise. This time when the noise came around I made sure to pay closer attention. It only occurred around the 2500-3000 RPM range no matter the speed, gear or how much throttle I gave the truck. If the truck is in neutral and I revved it to 2500-3000 RPM I wouldn't hear anything so it only happened while the wheels were turning. I'm thinking the U-joints aren't just bad because this has happened twice around the same time so it has to be something else right? This also didn't start happening til I put a C8.25 in the rear. The best way for me to describe the noise is squeaky. My truck has ~3" lift, C8.25 rear, stock driveshaft and transfer case. The rear axle was professionally installed so the angle should be correct.

You can pick up master cylinder and slave kits that are already pre-bled to make life easy. LUK is a good brand to look for.

Rock on! What are you doing a 4 wheel parts? Not sure if you are into offroading but if you ever want to hit a trail let me know.

Is it possible you can just get a new carrier and shafts for the 8.25 if you just want to switch it over to 29 spline? I have a 8.25 with disks and a LSD and I love it so far. One other thing to keep in mind is the yoke sticks out an inch longer on the 8.25 then the D35.

I will be in Colorado for the summer so if you need some help with anything let me know and I can see if I can lend a hand.

Forgot to mention my truck is a 90 4.0L manual

The other day I went to the gas station and after filling up my truck did not start back up. It would crank but not fire. I checked for a spark and got nothing so that should be my problem not the fuel system. First thought was the CPS since that seems to be the most common problem. Ended up buying a bad one so I got another one from napa that gave me all the correct readings. After cranking so much my battery died so I tried charging or having it hooked up to another vehicle when trying to start it. I brought it to the local dealership and they said my battery just wasn't charged. Got the truck from the dealership and it had a weak start but still started. Drove it home the next day it didn't start. The truck isn't even cranking now. Along with replacing the CPS I also replaced the ignition coil, cap and rotor, got a new battery, refreshed all the grounds and the ICU and cleaned my battery cable terminals. My starter was replaced a year ago along with my negative battery cable and the positive looks to be in decent shape. When I turn my truck on to accessory it will beep at me for not having my seat belt on and the stereo will light up so I am getting at least some connection. The only thing I can think of is my ECU took a dump and isn't working now. I'm not sure where else to look any help would be appreciated.

Bolt on SOA would be okay for on the street and some light wheeling but if you want to do anything more then that I'd get a kit you either weld on or just weld that kit on later down the line.

Hard to tell when your speedo only goes to 85. Past a friend going 105 one time, I was going down hill of course. My drivetrain had some crazy vibrations and shakes.