COMJNUT

here is a M&G idea, we should decend upon the cars and coffee saturday 10am meeting spot at the sears outlet at park meadows.

really guys? rocky mountain region roll call: http://comancheclub.com/topic/15863-roll-call/

I just laughed, after I remembered I did a VERY amature video (gawd...so bad...) on my 91 for that thread what feels like years ago now. just looked, December 2010...

Actually you don't need to rip anything apart, just have the engine running and have someone move the temp from hot to cold and back. You need to look near the firewall under the hood for a valve the looks like an "X" with coolant lines going to it and then into the firewall and see if the vacuum motor on it is moving back and forth while a buddy is moving the temp from hot to cold.

air path through the system is quite easy to figure out. The intake has already been stated, the vent in front of the windshield. It goes through the blower motor, then through the heater core, then to the air door system to divert the air to the different locations. One of my mechanic friends calls the valve that allows the coolant into the heater core is "the cluster-$#&*" valve, sometimes that valve gets stuck into the open position all the time. The selections that are available without A/C is "OFF" "VENT" "BI-LEV" and the "defrost symbol". The selections do not modify anything but the air doors to the system. The temp controls that valve that I previously talked about and the blend-door. You will always pull from outside air unless you have A/C and select the "MAX" setting (which is the recirulate function). Mine blows hot air in the summer from the sun beating on the cowling and heating up the vents within the system. If I keep the temp on cold and it is cooler outside, the air will be hot then cool down. If it is 90 degrees outside, it will blow 90 degrees if not warmer from it being heated by the sun. First thing to check is that valve that lets the coolant into the heater core. If it stays open, do two things: get a new one, and/or figure out where the vacuum leak is. If it works properly, find a shady location to park and leave the windows cracked.

rear axles and rear axle seals are also prone to failure. My parents and a friend that owns the 06 and 07 WK that has had their rear axle replaced and seals needed to be replaced after one trip on the trail.

I think I'm third highest...275400 now, 275003 when picture was taken about a month ago:

and finally passed the milestone...

Also, no difference between XJ and MJ consoles. that strikes me as a little odd. just looked in my jeep pron books from the dealship options, only pioneers and eliminators had the option of the full center console.

how is it a "full restore" if it has XJ interior in it...one big givaway is the center console, where's the parking brake? oh right...its a foot pedal on MJ's...and a hand lever on XJ's

I will have to take you up on that offer some time soon, that is somewhat of a collection! :thumbsup: :cheers:

98 white TJ, sold in a little over 24 hours after posting, the guy was a communications director at a local cable network. 93 miata, sold in 4 hours, some lady had a summer time itch. 93 lumina, sold in 1 hour, to a family that i go to church with (i definately didn't expect that) 98 green TJ, sold in a little over one week because it was a 4cyl...

I really don't have any "stuck" or "wrecked" pics, but i do have carnage from daily driving a 20+ yr old truck: Surprised this didn't leave me stranded on the side of the road...it was only a 2.5 mile drive home from work This is what happens when your clutch petal shaft snaps it weld: Fixed:

the gas station at the corner went from 2.95 to 3.59 in a little over a month and a half...the last three days: 3.59, 3.55, 3.45

its 400lbs less than a cherokee with the same drivetrain and we can haul more than a cherokee with the metric ton package if your in a emissions testing area, you have higher limits than a cherokee, because your a "truck" . :MJ 1: .

Here's a list that i've been on: MSV (FR114) (4) Boulder Lefthand Canyon (FR2025) (3) Coney Creek/Coney Flats (4) Boulder Loch Lomond (2) China Wall (4) Shrine Pass (1) Wurts Ditch (3) Switzerland Trail (2) Red Cone (7) Webster Pass (4) the ratings are from traildamage.com

Welcome, Hope to see ya on a trail sometime :waving:

the one thing that I saw that dropped my jaw on the video was that the hand on the steering wheel and the steering wheel moved with the steering of the model. and yes the closest thing that I've seen for a model size is the proline lexan body for r/c cars.

Here it is:

a lot of guys over in this region run the T&T Customs Y-Link. One of my friends has it and he beats the living snot out of his rig and it has lasted well.

didn't jeep do a '89 grand cherokee that was the full size version, or did they stop production a few years prior? ah, wagoneer...

good plan, I have something simialr (posi-lok), just make sure you don't have an exhaust leak or have cracked headers, it does melt easily.

So it sounds like your asking what is the regular top speed of one of our MJ's. The closest I've gotten to the 2.4L is driving the varmint. It got to 65 easily with the 4.10 gears with 235/75r15's at this high altitude, but it had a crazy good upkeep previous owner. Mine hit 105 on the GPS on a closed course with the specs in the sig line. If you really want to play with numbers, go to this page and enter in your specs in the left column and enter whatever you wish on the right. http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

yup