ftpiercecracker1

Yaaaa boyy. But seriously, 4.0s are plentiful and most of the time cheap. I pulled mine straight from a JY ZJ with something like 130k. It's still going strong 20k later. Paid something like 250 for it.

89 4.0 5spd 4x4 Must be from a 4x4, I don't think the rest matters. Need as soon as possible.

If you go all out on the WJ swap you could easily spend $600 if not more, but it can be done for a lot less. Junkyard knuckles, calipers, mounting brackets, economy rotors, basic pads, spicer lower WJ balljoints, wheel hub/bearing spacers $30+shipping, Offset TRE are the one expensive thing, DOM for the new links, a pair of heims for the new trac bar, OTA track bar mount (fab it, save money. Whatever route you go please for the love of pancakes take lots of pictures. FPC.

Have you considered doing a WJ knuckle swap? It can be done on the cheap, relatively, and upgrades your front brakes as part of the conversion. You can still choose to go either O- or U-TK, but IMO if your going to go through all that trouble it would be dum not to go OTK.

Are you asking about the ground for the tail lights? The ground for the fuel pump and the tail lights is located behind the driver's side rear tail light.

Literally blew my mind.

I think yearly inspections are a great thing. :D Thank god i don't have to deal with anything of the sort. :D :D But seriously, every single one of our (family) cars would fail even the most basic of inspections, guaranteed. BAD rust, emissions, non functioning equipment, leaks, you name it. The problem is what if you can't afford to buy a better car? For us, the only cars we can afford are the ones that are already rusted out and run down. :( Does the state buy the car from you or are you just forced to scrap/park it? Obviously you couldn't sell it to a private party, because they would just have the same problem with inspections.

Give that man a gold star! :clapping: It did turn out to be the fuse and fuse holder. Not knowing what high impedance meant i blundered on testing the line that delivers the power to the tail lights only to find that everything was in perfect order. My feelings toward my MJ at this point :rant: :mad: After mulling things over for for a few hours i go back to the fuse box and start rechecking things. At some point in my meddling i was inserting a jumper wire into the 'hot' wire of my brake switch and the other bare end touched a ground, but nothing happened, no arcing/sparks. :hmm: This peaked my interest so i rigged up my meter to see what was happening when the hot wire was grounded and low and behold the volts disappeared. I was already working on tracing the power wire so this just encouraged me even more. After a quick trace i found which fuse it went to and inspected it. Oddly enough the fuse was intact. No signs of damage of any kind. Checked the fuse holder clips and they looked good too, could be a little tighter, but nothing that would cause my current problem . . . . . . or so i thought. Using a jumper wire again i stuck it into the hot side of the fuse holder and scraped it against a ground. This time there was lots of fireworks, sparking and arcing oh my! I figured this had to be the source of my problem so i tightened up the little fuse holders and stuck a different/newer fuse back in and viola! brake lights! :banana:

Its been reported that loose manifold bolts can cause high idle, i have never experienced it, but it makes sense. Its just another place where vacuum can be lost. Another, is your IAC (idle air control) valve. It could be dirty and sticking open. This is the location for the IAC on an HO (91 models and on) On a Renix (90 and prior year models) it is simply on the front of the throttle body instead of the back.

Found it. Not to bad. Interior looks pretty sweet. :thumbsup: http://richmond.craigslist.org/cto/4661819454.html

If you arent able to buy/find the jeep specific cups, you will have to have a small piece of thick steel plate (1/4") to put between the cup and the arm (yoke?) This is another good video series and it also show you how to use the thick steel plate i mentioned. As for brand, you can't go wrong with spicer. That being said i am using XRF ball joints and I have nothing bad to report . . . . . yet. can't say how they compare price wise, but i am pretty sure they were only slightly less expensive than spicer.

Googled 'high impedance' still don't understand, but i will check the fuses.

Really appreciate the follow up guys. Unfortunately i think i jumped the gun, as my delay has not worked since that one time i mentioned previously. I have triple checked all my connections and everything is as it should be, well at least according to how it worked the last time. On top of that, i have ran into another electrical problem. :mad: It seems the more i try to fix the problems with this truck the more show up. Kinda like hydra . . . . . be a good name for a build thread don't ya think? :idea: Anyway, my brake lights are not working now and the issue really has me stumped. I have long since replaced that PITA renix brake switch with a super simple Chevrolet piece like the one pictured. Up until tonight my brake lights have always worked without fail. This is the problem. I tested with a multimeter and confirmed that i still have constant 12v running to the brake light and that the switch works perfect. Here is the strange part, using a jumper wire to bypass the switch and connect the two wires i discovered that as soon as i do my 12v disappears. Disconnect the wires and it immediately returns. There are no sparks as if it was grounded and the lights don't light. My running lights and blinkers work perfect and the brake lights themselves worked perfect as little as 5hrs ago. After spending all this time reconditioning the electrical connections only for this to happen has me extremely irritated.

Figured it out! :banana: It was just as i hypothesized. My only mistake was that i didnt wait long enough. The delay timer is not set the instant the ignition switch/power is turned off. There is a fail safe period that i was not aware of. I think this pause exists so that even if you turn the truck off before you turn your headlights off you still have the option to turn them off without activating the time delay. Here is the process. . . . 1. Key is in the RUN position with headlights on. 2. Key is turned to the off position, headlights are left on. 3. After about a 4 second interval the delay timer is set. 4. Turn HL off and timer takes over. 5. After approx 20-30sec HL shut off.

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That would definitely be helpful. Do you have a voltmeter and know how to test for continuity?

I appreciate the pic hornbrod. I thought i would be able to decipher it if a schematic could be found, but man i can't tell a darn thing from that. :( None of the wire colors match up and why are there wires going to/coming from a zillion different locations? Wiper switch, horn module, instrument cluster, chime module?? One thing it seems i can confirm from the schematic is that the sensor/module needs to see an ign power feed. I assume the module works something like this . . . . . . When you turn your key on, power is sent to the module via my currently absent wire. Then when your HL are turned on a secondary wire (tan/blck) also connected to the module is powered. At this point the timer is set but not triggered, for the timer to be triggered the ign power feed must be disconnected prior to turning off the HL. When this condition is met and both power sources are disconnected, a secondary connection inside the module is made allowing a 3rd constant hot wire (red/wht) to, in essence, back feed through the tan/blck wire to power the HL for the set time. This is possible because there is a splice in the Tan/Blck wire of the HL switch. This splice (same gauge & color) allows current to flow from the delay module directly to the selector stalk and onto HL. Clear as mud? :nuts:

Does anyone have a schematic/pinout for the connector to the module? I did some wire consolidation a while back and apparently i consolidate one to many. I currently have only three wires coming from the connector and i am pretty sure there are supposed to be a min of four for it to work. 16 guage Tan w/ blk stripe Power from HL switch 22 gauge Solid blk Ground 16 gauge Red w/ wht stripe Power from battery (B+) I believe i am missing a power wire from the ignition switch, and there just happens to be an untapped spot (solid brown) on my steering column connector (the really wide flat black one). I vaguely remember disconnecting a wire from the female portion of the connector, but just want to be certain before i go splicing something together that i shouldnt be. A pinout for that particular steering column connector could also answer this question. Thanks FPC.

Good observation/thinking on your part. :thumbsup: It will be a bish to track down, but that is probably going to be your best bet. Our wiring looms are notorious for having piss poor splices from the factory. :shake:

You put direct power to the pump and it still didnt work?

FWIW i just had mine made for $163

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Bunch of wimps, i don't need no stinkin internet. . . . not srs :typing: