ftpiercecracker1

Welcome to the club. :waving:

:agree: 110%

There is no electrical harness there. The only "harness" to speak of is a vacuum harness that is supposed to control the CAD operations and the 4x4 light in the the cab.

Check the fluid level in the t-case.

Maybe i am being dense here, but how on earth can the truck run normally with such a massive vacuum leak?? :eek:

I am very happy with my decision to go with MT springs, but i needed the extra payload for work. My old springs were very worn so i can't speak for how much lift, if any, i gained over new stock springs. If you can afford it i would go with the MT springs just because. The ride is stiffer, but not necessarily in a bad way. Bottom line, if you can't ever for see needing the extra payload then it would be a waste of your money to get the MT springs and you should probably just stick with stock replacements.

Just got off the phone with them, they have free shipping until the end of the week. Wish I could take advantage of it but I am broke as usual. On a separate note, does the ply of the tire determine the load rating? What is a good heavy duty all terrain tire that would fit a 15 inch rim

I am thinking there is something wrong with the torque converter when it goes into overdrive. I definitely think you're on the right track looking at the transmission though.

Has a date finally been picked for this event? I wanted to bring this back to the forefront before it got lost in the Twilight Zone of the archives.

There is very little clearance between the brake drum and the dust shield. If the dust shield gets bent it can rub up against the brake drum and cause a constant raspy metal sound. Or your brakes could just need replacing. Does the sound start as soon as you begin to move? Have you noticed the truck dragging when you let off the accelerator, as if the brake is applied slightly? When did it start? Have you taken the truck off road recently?

Take the air cleaner off the throttle body and completely cover it while the truck is running. If you're high idle persists you have to have a large vacuum leak somewhere else If the truck tries to die or the idle reduces greatly your IAC valve is malfunctioning in some way or another. Either the valve itself is malfunctioning or it is simply receiving the wrong signal. This is the same problem I'm having with my truck. Fortunately for me every once in awhile the truck will idle normaly. During one time when it was idling normally I disconnected the IAC valve and have yet to reconnect it because it has idled perfectly ever since.

Going on about a week now with no idle problems.

Also, a set of Sensa Trac load leveling shocks compliment metric ton springs very nicely.

The only question I have is, with the IAC valve disconnected will the computer never switch from open to closed loop or vice versa? Is there any reason why I can't leave it like this for now?

A small development, during one of the rare moments the truck was idling perfect (850-900rpm) I disconnected the IAC valve. I have done this before and noticed the idle did not change, but I have never left it disconnected to see what would happen after a drive. That is what I did this time. Whenever you disconnect the IAC valve it stays at whatever degree of opening it is at. As I had hoped, with the IAC valve disconnected my idle remained a steady 850 to 900 rpm throughout the entire day. This doesn't really say much about the valve or what might be causing it to malfunction, but I can eliminate the possibility of the throttle cable sticking or the butterfly sticking.

Those fuses can be the biggest PITA.

I would imagine you would put it in a pot of boiling water and check it the ohm readings. But to be honest if I'm going to go through the trouble to pull that sensor out I might as well replace it with a new one. How did the TPS cause your stalling issue?

As cool as it is how much of a power increase can we really expect to see?

Don't you hate when that happens? Just when you think you got everything working perfect and then BAM! Something goes out. You said you checked fuses and none of them were melted but did you actually pull them out and check them or did you look at the tops just to make sure that none were actually melted down? It could be the switch but the switch usually doesn't go out all of a sudden. Its tends to wear out slowly, at least from my experience. How about your dash lights to those work? And do your indicators light up on the dash or do you get nothing.

The truck is now stalling so often it is nearly undriveable. I would like to hear someone else's thoughts before I go out and just start buying sensors. And before someone says check the TPS, how does the TPS cause high idle? Since it only controls how the injectors fire. I have played with the TPS with the truck running and it has almost no effect on the idle. I believe I either have a faulty IAC valve or a faulty coolant temperature sensor. The IAC valve is new and I have visually confirmed that it is functioning (moving in and out) but I have no way of knowing if it is interpreting the incoming signals correctly. Keep in mind this is only an idle problem, I have no issues cruising down the highway at 70.

Sup fellas. I'll cut right to the chase. The truck never seems to have this problem on cold starts. But when it gets warm the idle will randomly drop to nothing and the truck will barely stay running/stall if I let off the gas. If I start it immediately after stalling it will rev to 3000 rpm. Sometimes it will stay there until I shut the truck off again, other times it'll come down on its own in a few seconds. The IAC valve is new and the throttle body has been cleaned. The throttle cable and pedal have been inspected and they are not sticking. Even when its running "good" the idle cannot make up its mind. It will sometimes surge and stick at 1500 to 2000rpm during acceleration. It never idles below a thousand rpm once it is warm. The only time it idles correctly is when the engine is cold. I am leaning strongly toward a faulty coolant temperature sensor, the one in the side of the block.

It's true that the Wagoner headlights suck, but cleaning up the wiring harness and connectors helps a lot. If you really want to get adventurous you could also set up a few relays to run your high and low beams together. This is how mine are and they are surprisingly bright. At some point I would like to either upgrade the bulbs all together or get a second set of high beams to replace the low beams so that I have single high beams or double high beams to select from.

My Eliminator is an 89 and a 4x4.

The HDM should trip the moment your ignition is turned off. your HLs should remain on for approx 30-40 sec. All MJ come wired for this option and it should be as easy as plugging in the module. I would try a different module and see if it works any better.

in it's most simplistic form, four wires is all you need.. Battery positive, ground, ignition positive and an outgoing wire that will carry the power to whatever you want headlights, fan, etc. Really killer idea for the timed cooling fan btw. On mine battery positive was a large red w/ white stripe. Outgoing was a large tan w/ black stripe. Ground, a small solid black and ignition positive I had to re-run completely because I had removed it entirely during one of my "wire consolidation" binges.