ftpiercecracker1

Cat has been hollowed out long ago. Well son of a $#@!%, the random cutting out is back. Cruising in 5th doin about 35mph tach drops to zero, dead as a hammer. Coast for about 1/8 mile trying to start it, finally she cranks back up and goes on. Heading home later on, I'm about 200ft from my drive way and she cuts out again, I ended up coasting to a stop directly in front of my mailbox lol. This time she won't fire back up, I try for several minutes but she won't even cough. Just pushed her into the ditch in front of my house. She had been doing fairly well all day. In order to try and further isolate the problem I disconnected the O2 and the coolant sensor on the side of the block. It's hard to say whether or not it made a difference. For whatever reason the popping and sputtering seem to be the most pronounced when in fifth gear. With the return of the random cutting out I am leaning towards a dieing coil, but how should I go about testing it and how do I know it's not a bad module? (The thing the coil sits on)

So as to conclude the Autozone CPS question, I believe the new (unmodified) Napa CPS has solved my sudden/random dieing issue, BUT now I have a new issue. This is the new problem. While trying to maintain speed, any speed, the truck starts to spit, sputter and pop through the exhaust. If you try to accelerate once it starts the problem only worsens. The symptoms grows worse and worse the farther you press the gas UNTIL you reach WOT at which point it accelerates normally. It is very erratic but very cosistant. It definitely seems to get worse as the truck runs. Not so much as the truck warms, because it warms up to operating temp in 5 minutes of driving, but the symptoms are still minimal. After 10 minutes or so is when it starts getting worse, BUT driving home last night (15min) it was fine. The very same drive into town just a few hours earlier was a huge PITA. Spitting, sputtering, popping, trying to stall, idle was all over the place (1100 - 200rpm). I tried disconnecting the TPS and that only served to exasserbate the symptoms. I have compulsively checked and reset the TPS about three times in the last three days, each time the symptoms get a little worse, then a little better and then worse again. Tested fuel pressure WITH a gauge. 32 w/ vacuum 39 without. Instantly jerks up a few psi when the engine is revved. Distributor cap and rotor button were trashed. I thought that might have been my problem, so I replaced them with the same thing i had on there, Echlin brand brass contacts/good stuff. There was no change to my symptoms. Plugs could stand to be replaced too, doing that sometime today.

Cruiser: I did/have always done both. I enlarged the hole and slide the sensor itself. It looked identical to my old one after I was done. Cody: I wish it was fixed. Well, I think the CPS issue is fixed but now I have a new problem. Why do these things always seem to break down together? I am going to start a new thread so people won't get confused.

Update: Napa part is 99% identical to the Autozone part down to the number printed on the part itself. There was one string of numbers that did not match, I assume batch number? Other than that and a slightly different box, it was the same d**n thing only $15 more. Got it installed, truck fired up fine, took a very short drive around the neighborhood, all seems well. I should point out that I did not modify this part at all. Out of box, onto truck. Maybe I screwed up the AZ sensor when I was doing Cruiser's mods? I've done it before without problems, but I'm not ruling out operator error. I need my truck for work tomorrow, so we shall see.

Called and ordered, should be here tomorrow morning. Edellman brand, never heard of it, but fella at the counter spoke very highly of them. Said it was the best they offered. $40 I guess I was so set on getting mopar I didn't even consider Napa. Will update in 48hrs

Pretty sure my problem lies with the title of this thread, but I always like a second opinion to confirm my thinking. About two weeks ago my truck started to die at complete random. Total light switch effect, one second it's running the next it's dead as a door knob. Tach goes to zero and stays there even if the engine is rotating; it's a 5spd so i try to roll start it as I am coasting. On a side note, it never would start that way. It would only fire back up if I cycled and USED the key. Otherwise the truck ran flawlessly. It got worse everyday until driving home the third day after it started it cut out and wouldn't start at all. Classic failing >>>> failed CPS right? Dealership says the part is unobtainable/discontinued. So, with great trepidation, I pick one up from autozone. Right off the bat there are problems. The truck has been stalling/cutting out/hesitating under acceleration/quietly backfiring since the moment I installed the Autozone CPS. Yes, I did Cruiser's CPS mod, just like I did with the last one. Can a poor quality CPS make a truck run crappy or are their symptoms more narrow. I.E. light switch effect. Where can I get a mopar/NOS CPS? Part number? thanks FPC

Let the flaming commence! :P

There arent many who have, but there are some. When well tuned most report the power/torque to feel similar to that of a stock 4.0 I believe Banks makes or did make a bolt on turbo kit for the 2.5 or maybe it was just for the 4.0 :hmm: I'm definitely for adding a turbo to anything. Just depends how deep your pockets are and how skilled you are at fabrication.

I can confirm the euramatec lights are damn near tailor made for our trucks. I had to make the holes a bit bigger horizontaly but other than that they are plug and play. Worth every penny.

If you end up pulling the calipers rebuilding them is stupid easy. Pry dust boot off with screwdriver/pick Pop out piston using hydraulic pressure or sliding flat round punch through bleeder valve. Use pick to remove inner rubber seal. Emory cloth to clean in cylinder/piston. Done. I also applied a very thin layer of antisieze to the piston. No idea if will help or not.

I agree and I wish I could tell you Minuit, but I never got the chance to see them. Sometimes I wish I wasn't quite so responsible. I don't want to go into details. Long story short, I'm poor again. No comanche(s) for me. :,(

So what are you waiting for? Money. Money is always the problem. I have $750 cash in my hand right this very second, but just because I have it doesn't mean I can spend it. There are a lot of things I would like/need to do that I just never have enough money to accomplish. It's also pretty rare for me to have a large sum of money like this so I have to think long and hard about what I will/could do with it.

Update: Nice older fella (Tom) Actually has two MJs. The 92 and an 88. He was very upfront in saying that both are in rough shape. 92: Front end "shot" No/bad reverse Bald tires Miss match rims Rough body and interior He said it does run and drive but would not trust it enough to let me to drive it home. Not many details on the 88. He says has been on jack stands for several years. It does run, but is in overall worse shape than the 92. Short wheelbase, forgot to ask about engine/transmission. He was very enthusiastic about potentialy selling them to a Comanche aficionado. If I wanted I could probably get both for $750. I'm hoping to get down there to look at them in the coming week or two. Hopefully I can get a few pics for y'all to look at.

1992 Jeep Comanche for sale - $750 http://miami.craigslist.org/mdc/cto/5626403620.html

Renix ran from 87-90. It seems that the general consensus is that the renix system more readily adapts to the increased demands of a stroker. Where as the HO OBDII can be more fussy. Strokers have been successfully built/ran on both platforms hundreds of times. I believe Don's (hornbrod) jeep has is an HO stroker. If I was in your place I would keep the renix system, but do all the bolt on upgrades HOs got. Horse shoe intake 7120 cylinder head 62mm Bored throttle body I'll stop now before I get ahead of myself. Even though I've read literal volumes of info on 4.0 strokers, I've yet to actually build one. BTW, if you don't already know about it, Jeepstrokers.com has the answer to every stroker question you could ever think of.

Later model (HO) 4.0s have extra ribbing cast into the blocks. Makes them stiffer. Older renix blocks, supposedly, have a higher zinc or nickel content can't remember which. Makes them more resilient to wear. And if you really want to go full tilt, look up the new edlebrock 4.0 cylinder head. P.S. I'm pretty sure Alexia is a dude ;)

88whiteComanche, he already checked that. Go as far Upstream in the circuitry as you can, apply 12 volts and see if the pump works. If it works you know your problem lies farther Upstream, if it doesn't you know your problem is somewhere between that point and the pump.

31x10.50x15 $160ea Just had these tires put on about 2 weeks ago. Look/ask for the ones made in USA. They took some weight, ranging from 1.25oz to 5.25oz, but balanced out extremely well. Minimal road noise. Decently grippy for ATs. My only complaint. . . These tires LOVE to pickup and sling rocks. Stay far away from these tires if you care even the slightest about your paint job. FPC

I was going to type a whole long story about my experience with them, but I'll keep it short and sweet. Good to work with. Answered all my questions. Lifetime warranty on ball joints. No difficulty getting part warrantied. All they asked for was my name, address, phone number, and said part is on its way. Knowledgeable about products. don't know if they are American owed/operated, but both times I have called they answered quickly and spoke clear American english. For those not familiar with this company here is a link to their website. http://www.xrfchassis.com

I'm hoping it will not be too bad, but I have put several thousand miles on it with a totally shot pilot bearing. I've gotten pretty good at keeping it from shuttering on take off, but there's only so much you can do. If the input shaft is really beat up I will just replace the transmission, it has been on borrowed time for quite a while now.

So does that mean you are running a Grand Cherokee 4.0? That is what I'm thinking about doing, but because of the mismatched engine and transmission I don't know what my dimensions need to be.

93 ZJ 4.0 mated to 90 ax-15. Have to have a custom pilot bearing/bushing made. I can have a custom machined bronze olite bushing made for free thanks to my brother, but I am having difficulty nailing down the right dimensions. 93 ZJ Bearing: According to print out from parts store. http://cdn.4ws.com/media/catalog/product/cache/26/image/950x/040ec09b1e35df139433887a97daa66f/1/6/16910.10.jpg OD 1" ID .75 Depth .5618 The problem is, there seems to be two different ZJ pilot bearing styles. The above dimensions are for just the bearing as pictured. Then I have seen these. . http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/NrYAAOxyyFhTeQG~/s-l300.jpg . . . These two are also labeled as ZJ pilot bearings. Is the bearing in the first picture pressed into the part in the lower picture and then the whole assembly pressed into the crankshaft? Or is the lower item something different altogether? I also got a printout for the transmission pilot bearing, but I don't know if the dimensions are for the sleeve the bearing goes into or the bearing itself. 90 XJ bearing: http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/medium/bca/nnt_fc66426_p04_ang.jpg OD 1.0546" ID .5934" Depth .7190" Also, bushing or bearing? Would it be worth the time/effort to make a custom bushing that would accept a proper bearing or would a plain oilite bushing be sufficient? An oilite bushing would take all of 2min to make with the right dimensions, so if there's not much difference between a bushing and a bearing I'll probably just go with a bushing. Also, what can I do in the event the snout of my input shaft is FUBAR? Thanks FPC.

Well, it's just as I feared. I've physically walked 4 different yards and called 2 others and only came up with a single Chevy 10 bolt. Still plenty of D30s though. These were the yards north of me. There are another 5-6 about 45min south, so the well hasn't run dry yet. BTW, I am probably going to sell my current axle, but I don't know what I should ask for it. I figured $150 obo? Tight pinion. Manual hubs work good. Draglink and tie rod included Drum brakes, complete hub to hub 4:27 ratio (47 11 printed on the ring gear) I was also thinking about the whole kingpin steering arm. Unfortunately the kingpin caps on my axle, which are small as it is, have pretty severe relief cuts on their sides, which dramatically reduces the surface area contact any secondary top mounted arm would be able to make. I feel that this would reduce the clamping forces and thusly it's strength. Is this sound logic? I was thinking of having custom caps made that don't have those reliefs, bit why would I spend good money on such an undesirable axle? Thoughts FPC

If you have locking hubs a twin stick would be redundant/unnecessary would it not? Does reverse steer use the cresent moon shaped arm? I don't think we can use that because of the steering box location. Its at an angle not flat. My brother is a big fan of locking hubs, but I don't see the appeal. Extra hassle having to get out of truck Complex, more so than just a straight shaft like a Dana 30. Something else to break. I did some more digging and found the makes/years that used P-side drop axles. I'm gonna hit the JYs hard and see what turns up. Thanks dudes FPC

Truck came that way when we bought it. Thanks for the info. I've checked out the full size forum, just haven't signed up yet. Yes I'll check it out, but having an axle shipped would probably cost a fortune. Already have a D300 attached to the 400. I need either a flat top knuckle style front axle or a passenger drop t-case that will bolt to the turbo 400. FPC