ftpiercecracker1

Pretty straight forward here. 1st What is the best/simplest way to regain a functioning fuel gauge? Dakota fuel tank swap? Cherokee fuel tank and sending unit? From what I understand new sending units for XJs are still being made. Something else? 2nd Does anybody have the part number for a speedometer cable for a 90 4.0 5spd 4x4? I tried to do a search, but didn't find anything useful.

Factory 4wd Renix Eliminator here too!(1990) No pwr windows or cargo light, but I got everything else.

The Grand Tour. Google it, thank me later. BBC top gear = greatest car show ever put to television. Although I don't particularly understand what Pete was getting at. Are you aroused at the amount meg is insured for or just at the thought of meg?

Pete: LOL Ok cool, so it is just as i suspected. Going SOA with MT springs will net slightly more lift than standard capacity, not because of the difference in capacity but simply because the leaf packs are thicker. So the final equation would be leaf pack thickness + perch height + full axle tube diameter. I went out and braved the harsh FL winter (73° @ 10pm) to measure for my self. A little over 5.5" maybe 5 5/8"? Also forgot to mention I have a chry 8.25, larger tubes than a D35 right? Just for reference, here is a pic with standard leafs.

http://fortlauderdale.craigslist.org/brw/cto/5878956503.html http://tampa.craigslist.org/psc/cto/5923719665.html http://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/cto/5910738911.html http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/cto/5930627097.html

I understand that, but the metric ton springs have more leafs in the pack than the standard pack meaning they are thicker and more lift will result, yes? If you stuck a 1" block under the springs while still SUA nothing would change, but if you flip the springs on top, THEN add the 1" block you would gain an additional 1" of lift. I havent measured them, but I'm pretty sure the MT springs are thicker than the standard pack. By how much? I don't know. But whatever the difference is, that is how much more lift would be achieved using MT springs vs standard capacity. Also, why only half the axle tube?

I understand why the ride would be the same from factory, but with the two extra overload springs on a metric ton pack wouldnt that add an extra 1-2 inches once you flip the springs? I have thought about going soa, but my metric ton springs are near brand new and I'm worried I would end up with enough lift to put me somewhere in the stratosphere.

Mega cab long bed? That thing must be as long as a city block. Glad your happy with it.

This is interesting, i have never ever seen these two parts mounted in those places. Right hand drive? And yes, leave them alone, especially the MAP sensor in the first picture. You don't have to have the diagnostic plug, Renix scan tools are few and far between, but it would be a mess trying to track down and eliminate each of the wires.

Well it appears the ICM was the culprit. Got the new one from Advance Auto, $117 ,carquest BWD brand, gasp <<<MADE IN U.S.A.>>> gasp stamped right into the part. Installed it and she fired right up, purring like new engine. Been driving her around for the last few hours with zero issues, about to go out again. Think I finally got it nailed. Important data: old ICM Square wave signal wire (solitary yellow wire) had 16k ohms of resistance between connector and left tab (tab closest to firewall with ICM installed). Grn w/ white stripe has 1k ohms of resistance between connector and right tab (tab closest to front of vehicle when ICM is installed) 2nd Solid yellow wire that is grouped with black and grn with white stripe has 2ohms of resistance between the connector and the left tab. New ICM: 600ohms 1k ohms haven't tested yet.

ICM has been ordered, will report back tomorrow with test results.

More data: On the ICM, the left tab has constant 12dcv with the key on, but the right tab only has .25dcv and only while cranking. I think I read somewhere that the right tab is supposed to have half the voltage of the left or something like that. I also tried to do a spark test. I didn't get any spark, but I am by my self so it's easy to get a false negative. I tested the (brand new) coil too, just in case. Less than one ohm across the studs and around 10k between either stud and the ignition wire terminal. The second solid yellow wire, square wave signal wire I believe has a steady 5dcv w/ key on. Maybe it is the ICM? 5dcv in .25dcv out?

More data: On the ICM, the left tab has constant 12dcv with the key on, but the right tab only has .25dcv and only while cranking. I think I read somewhere that the right tab is supposed to have half the voltage of the left or something like that. I also tried to do a spark test. I didn't get any spark, but I am by my self so it's easy to get a false negative. I tested the (brand new) coil too, just in case. Less than one ohm across the studs and around 10k between either stud and the ignition wire terminal.

More testing information. Plug wire from coil to distributor 650ohms resistance. I know plug wires are supposed to have high resistance, but I do not know how high. Does this sound right? Ignition coil module. The plug with three wires (yellow, black, grn w/wht stripe). Yellow wire has 12v with key in run position. Black is grnd w/ less than 1ohm of resistance. Grn w/ white stripe has nothing AC or DC regardless of key position. I also tested between the same plug and the tabs on the module. Standing on the P-side of the truck the left tab has 16k ohms of resistance between it and the solid yellow wire. The right tab has 1k ohms of resistance between it and the grn and white stripe wire. These readings are meaningless to me without a baseline, but maybe they will reveal something to you guys.

truck fired right up this morning idle perfect. Died before I could even get to the end of my road. Jumped right out and tested the CPS while cranking. Solid .3acv, on both sides of the connector. Its a little low, but shouldn't that be enough?

I just tested the CPS with the truck running. I'm getting a rock solid 1.5 acv What ye cruiser? I read your CPS testing tips and it says I should be getting .5acv

Starter relay isn't the original, but it is several years old 5+. Yes, I went through hell too trying to figure out which wire went where. I eventually got it right and didnt touch it until last night. I unplugged each wire and plugged it back in just to make sure each had a secure connection.

Yes and no. Sometimes 5min other times 25min. I don't smell gas, there is no black smoke and when it does fire back up it does so normally and runs/idles normally. After going through the same cycle (wait for a few minutes, start it, drive for a mile, dead, rinse-repeat) for a third time, my brother came and towed me home. I had the engine running the whole way without issue. I found out that if you pull the fuel pump relay the truck shuts off instantly, which surprised me. I expected it to slowly sputter to a stop. On a hunch I swapped relays around hoping for a miracle. No dice, truck died again just a mile or two down the road. Once I got it started again I really dug into the wiring harness, shaking it, wiggling and tugging the wires going ti each relay bucket and connector. Nothing phased it; the engine kept right on idling smooth as silk. Question: Are there any wires that if grounded could cause these sudden cut outs?

Okay, she's fired back up. Heading home, running like nothing ever hap. . . . . nevermind literally just cut out as I post this. Breaking out the matches now.

Oh I'm fired up now. Not but two hours after my last post and I'm sitting on the side of the road. Pulled out of the grocery store parking lot and clunk, she is dead as a hammer. Coughed a few times trying to start her back up, but then nothing. Now she isn't even trying. Going to pop the hood, have a look see, wait a bit, then try to start again and see what happens. If I hadn't of just had an otherwise great day I would have already lit her on fire.

I thought about that and that's why I tried straight up disconnecting the TPS. I figured if the TPS was the problem and I cut it out of the ECU's calculations the the symptoms should improve. When the symptoms only worsened i figured the problem must lie elsewhere. Also, it should be known and I think I have already mentioned it, but I had already unplugged/reset the TPS multiple times prior. The only thing I did different this last time was to fully remove it from the TB and cycle it through its ROM a few times.

Yes, at one time or another. I checked all my grounds, new and old, they are dirty/oily, but still tight as the day i put them in. So it seems all i needed to do was threaten my truck with lighting it on fire and all my problems went away. Not really, but it is confounding none the less. The truck was a huge PITA to drive to and from work yesterday (sunday), but after i got home i started pecking around on it again. I pulled and reconnected a few electrical connectors i hadnt messed with in a looooong time (knock and cam), completely removed MAP sensor hose and blew through it (it was clear), and totally removed and reset the TPS . . . . . again. I used my voltmeter and ran several tests checking for dead spots in the travel and only during the first test did i notice an unexpected dip in my read out. No matter how slow i went i could not reproduce the drop. So i said #@$! it and dialed it in and let it ride. For the last 48hrs the truck has ran flawlessly. Really wish i knew what the problem was though. :???:

How am I supposed to check those? What values am I checking for? Also do you know how to test the ignition coil? Is there a certain ohm value? Yes, i have done all the ground upgrades, but it's been a while and they could stand to be cleaned.

Ok so as it stands at this very moment the trucks symptoms remain unchanged. In the last week I have replaced the: CPS 2x (first modded, second unmodded) dizzy cap (brass contacts) rotor button ( brass contacts) spark plugs (good ole champions) coil (oem) Replaced coil and plugs tonight. Plugs were worn, but otherwise looked great. I replaced the coil because the truck is still cutting off even with the new CPS. I figured how could it be anything else, but alas the problem persists. Gonna try the TPS next.

Maybe it was fourth gear. I was turning maybe 1200rpm and was going somewhere between 35 and 40. Speedo doesn't work.