ftpiercecracker1

What if that coupler breaks?

Oil changer, tire rotater, crap taker, at the local Jeep dealer, training to become a certified Chrysler tech for no other reason other than i want to be learning/doing something new at all times. I have zero interest in being a mechanic. I will be going back to school to finish last two years for a BS in civil engineering.

I appreciate the invitation very much. Its a very rare occasion that i venture down to Stuart, but i may make an exception once i get the truck road worthy again . . . . . . . which will be a while.

They way i see it is the TPS causes high idle indirectly. I am blaming a faulty IAC when it is in fact merely following orders, so to speak. For the most part everything you have said (Rockfrog) is pretty much what i was getting at, the only bit i missed was where the O2 picks up on the rich condition and tells the IAC to open up a little. Soooo, even though the IAC maybe creating the high idle, it is not the cause. I guess its time to try replacing the TPS. thanks guys, i will give a TPS a shot and report back. FYI it maybe be a week or so before i can get back to yall.

Cruiser, I consider your posts to be holy Jeep gospel, but i have never understood why so many people look to the TPS as a cause for high idle. Correct me if i am wrong here. The TPS tells the computer where the butterfly is and in turn triggers the injectors to add more fuel accordingly. But without extra air from the butterfly opening how can a faulty TPS, no matter how bad, cause a high idle?? It would seem the worst it could do would be to cause the engine to run really rich and idle low/rough. All it has the power to do is mislead the ECU into thinking the engine is getting more air when its not. This has always bugged the sh*t out of me because no one has been able to give me a clear answer.

I hate starting new topics, so i am dragging this back up to the top. The truck has ran darn near perfect the whole time the IAC has been disconnected. The only issue i have experience thus far is the truck idles very low in the morning when the engine is ice cold, but after a few miles down the road its flawless, right around 800-900rpm. Shifting has also become a little more technical. In my experience the IAC seems to prolong the rpms for a very brief moment (.5 - 1s?) giving you a window of opportunity to make a smooth transition into the next gear. Without the IAC doing this, when the butterfly in the TB snaps shut the rpms drop immediately, sometimes making shifting a bit of a challenge. But this is just nit picking. Any way, i finally decided to try connecting the IAC again, just to see what would happen and like i had expected the problem returned immediately. Surging/sticking rpm during acceleration, an idle that would never drop below 1100, and stalling. So i decided to buy yet another IAC, even though the current one is less than a year old. It was a generic unit from Advance ( $55 :eek: ), I swapped it out for the old one and it seemed to work quite well. RPMs would hesitate for the briefest moment between shifts, the idle was right around 1000, and i had no high idle. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . for the first day. Que today. Truck started fine, idle was good, but as soon as i pulled out of the drive way and accelerated i could feel it surge ever so slightly and i knew the issue was back. On the way to work (15mi) the idle never went below 1100rpm, it got stuck at 2k once or twice for a few moments, and when i got to work it shot up to 3k and stayed there. I even tried cycling the key without success. The drive home after work went fine though, so :dunno: . Since i now work at a Jeep dealership i figured i would take advantage of my substantial employee discount and cough up the doe to get a genuine Mopar factory replacement IAC ( $84 w/ discount :eek: :eek: $120 w/ out :shake: ) I talked with some techs, with limited success. I asked them what controls the IAC and they said the computer. They said that if the Mopar piece does not solve the problem the issue probably lies in the computer, seeing as how it tells the IAC what to do. The IAC i ordered is meant for a 95 XJ. Even though it bolts up to the TB and the electrical connector is the same, is there any chance the IAC from the newer OBD1/OBD2 systems is incompatible with Renix? People do HO swaps all the time while retaining the original Renix electronics and i have never heard single person mention anything about keeping the Renix IAC. Thanks everybody, FPC

How many thunder chiefs were made? :hijack:

10 4, i have been thinking the same thing, but put it off hoping my tune-up-in-a-can would solve it. Off comes the carb. :wrench:

Since this is not a Comanche specific problem i decided to put this in the pub. As some of you may know, i have an 82 J10 Gladiator. This is the actual truck, albeit she is not in nearly as good of shape now. Chevy 350/Turbo 400/Dana 300, pretty basic. She has been sitting for several years with minimal attention. Once or twice a year we would start and drive her around the block, but now that i am back in FL where she has been kept i am able give her the attention she deserves. She has a new Carter fuel pump and a new Edlebrock 650, Electric choke, 4 barrel carb. Both have been bought a year or two ago now, but should only have a few dozen hrs on them. The Problem: The problem is after the engine has run for about 10-15 minutes it will start to run rough at lower rpms and at idle. If you raise the rpms up just a little it picks back up and runs quite smooth. After you have raised the rpms, if you drop the hammer the truck responds very well and will take off like a rocket, BUT once you let of the gas again it will really start to stumble and will even die completely. Starting the truck back up after it dies can be a bit of a challenge. You have to pump the pedal to get it to start and a lot of the time you have to stay in the gas to keep it running. I have flushed the fuel tank with premium, replaced all the fuel filters, poured Sea Foam into the crank case, brake booster vac line (engine running) and fuel tank. I have also sprayed a generous amount of carb cleaner directly into the carb with the engine running all in the hopes of cleaning out whatever gunk might have built up during its hibernation. I am fairly certain the choke is disengaging because during a cold start the rpms are slightly elevated, then after a minute or two if i pump the pedal slightly the rpms drop dramatically to a more normal idle. So, what are your ideas?

This. I really wish mine had come with those stickers.

Sweet deal, thanks for following up with us. :thumbsup:

I agree 100% with adding a relay. As for finding a 12v source, if you intend on adding any other accessories i would recommend buying an auxiliary fuse box of some sort. I have a BlueSeas unit.

Really appreciate you following up with us. :thumbsup:

I would recommend slathering some dielectric grease in all the electrical connectors you take apart and clean.

Under normal operation there are only two ways air can enter the motor, either the throttle body butterfly valve opening or the IAC valve opening. If you are not pressing the gas pedal and the IAC valve is stuck closed there is no airflow and the engine cannot run. Thus the reason why the engine idled when you pulled a vac line. The round plastic ball you mentioned is for the climate control system and is more or less irrelevant to your problem. Replace the IAC and your problem will be solved.

I don't know about the first part, but the connector on the back of the HL switch utilizes the interior wiring harness ground. Under the knee panel on the left hand side of the steering column. The HL wiring harness itself could be the source of your problem or more likely the HL harness connector under the hood. The connector is located on the drivers side, right underneath the factory air filter location. Look for a big black connector.

The grounding system throughout the whole truck is severely inadequate. If you havent already I would strongly recommend upgrading/refreshing all current grounding points and maybe even add a few. Also the bulkhead connector that goes through the fire wall can produce significant resistance if not thoroughly cleaned.

Thats a pretty sweet piece. Do you have a link/price? How beefy are the studs for the incoming ground/hot leads?

Well its either one or the other. Since you have already replaced the slave, the master would be the next and easiest thing to replace.

It looks like one of those FJ's that a meth head modified. Or its bad @$$ militarized older brother.

Lol. No no, i think she is searching for another elusive sea creature. .. . a bearded clam. Please don't ban me. :peek:

can't wait to see that bumper and winch combo all mounted up. :popcorn:

Why not 1/8th mile? If your open to it, I have a ton of questions for you about your stroker.

I am right across the way in Ft. Pierce I will send you a PM with my name and number in the next day or two.

Currently running XRF units and so far so good. My truck gets worked pretty hard and so far they have held up very well. Approx 5k since install.