ftpiercecracker1

I believe 100% of 91s and on were HOs, trans would be ax15 (ax4/5 was never available behind the 4.0) Rear axle will almost certainly be the good ole D35. The VIN # is the best way to determine what is original and what is not, however i am pretty certain you cannot ascertain whether or not the axle is original simply by using the VIN.

Spector, what did you do to make it work? Post a pic so the rest of the guys can see.

You don't want to remove the trans cooler and plug the lines at the case, the AW4 won't like that. It will get very upset and spit all its parts into the pan or worse. AW4 was not available for the 86 model. Its a torqueflight A904 (3spd auto) or something like that.

Yes and my thoughts exactly. Only problem is that the barbed fittings and the original hard line are of two different sizes and i think it is to big of a difference for the hose & clamp idea to work. It would leak is what i am trying to say. Can the lines be removed and the ports plugged? This would seem to be the simplest solution.

In my defense i did not search any online sites, but when i talked to the folks at the auto parts store they explained to me that instead of using the a clutch to control fan speed it was simply a direct 1:1 ratio via a solid shaft. Like this Jeep has, only minus the solid shaft. . . There is no clutch so whatever the water pump pulley spins at, so does the fan. My old Isuzu's fan worked this way. I did consider an Electric fan, but we had no way of knowing if it would mount or even come close, nor did we have the means to if it didn't. On top of all that we did not have any electrical tools (switch, wire, heat shrink, connectors, nada) either. AND we were extremely limited on what we were allowed to buy. I know i could have gotten an E-fan to work, i just didnt have what i needed at the time.

Just food for thought. The 2.5 fan had a strange blade arrangement with 4 blades grouped together and then 3 blades grouped together making for seven blades total. I do believe the blades were also oriented in the wrong direction, even though it was a v-belt configuration. While at the junkyard we also tried a ZJ fan, but of course it didn't work either. We even hunted down several 2.8 s10 trucks and still could not find a suitable fan. One of them may have been able to bolt up, but the risk of it not working, the cost, and the distance we had to travel made me decide other wise. Hence why we said screw it and just ordered a new one. FYI the solid shaft design seems to be the only one available any more. Could not order a clutch fan. FPC.

Thanks for the follow up. :thumbsup: Did you have it installed? Cost? Is it a LSD or full locker? Is it the same as a spool?

Man terra, thats no bueno. :( Good on you for keeping your cool, having an irate person in your face can really test one's patience. Hopefully any kind of vet bill that might be charged will be insignificant. At least your dogs didnt come to any harm, even though they may still reek of skunk.

Met Matt personally a few years back, before all the youtube stuff. Bought a 4.0 short block off of him to build my would be stroker. His personality was painfully dry, but he was cool enough. I do like watching his vids though.

I have one sitting in my barn that i would give to you. But i would imagine shipping it would be a nightmare and cost a lot too.

Wow, that thing threw a monster wall of sand when it took off. Those arab boys build some of the most bada** dune dragsters of all time.

Straight body, no rust, clean interior, 4.0, looks like a killer platform to start with. :thumbsup: Diggin the bed bars too. Your location says Nashville, where at? We've got a middle TN chapter going with several members and are always looking to find more. When we do meet its usually in Murfreesboro, all the guys live in or around the area.

:smart: You had to know this was coming. :D

Nope, both are PVC or a PVC like material. I have had mine on for a little over 8k miles with no problems. I can't think of any reason not to use them. The only thing that has come up is the passenger side squeaks when the suspension cycles. These bushings are pretty beefy, so i am not worried about them breaking/cracking and even if they do i can have a brand new pair for less then $10. Sooo :dunno:

Agree 110%, nothing ticks me off like blatant littering. Grrrrrr :headpop:

Alrighty here we go, as promised. Swung by the plumbing shop and snapped a few pics. My phone is pretty crap, but they are better than nothing. They owner is an older gentleman who has forgotten more about plumbing than i will ever know. He said they are called PVC "bushings" and are used as diameter reducers. The more you know! Anyway onto the pics. . . . They are both used for the same purpose, just different sizes, color, and slightly different material. The owner said there was no difference between the two as far as strength/durability. Price: The white one is $5 and the black one $1.70 :dunno: 2#

:popcorn: 2x

The AX-15 is a robust trans and easy to learn on. The clutch is smooth and predictable and the gears engage easily. Mine definitely has its own personality. If i keep the rpms low (1800 and below) i can shift with one finger, but if i romp on her shifting can get stiff. I think i can help myself out a lot by putting in that redline stuff, right now i have Shaffers. It came highly recommended by my mechanic, but i am pretty sure i should not have put it in there. Its expensive as sh*t too. To me, it has a long-ish throw, but not bad. I wouldnt mind if the shifting lever were a little longer. When it comes to offroading a manual, of any kind, can be your best friend or your worst nightmare. Gearing is everything. That is why i have considered swapping to an auto. With proper gearing i think a manual is a lot more fun offroad, but you really have to know how to work it otherwise you will find yourself stalling out constantly and getting rather frustrated. In mud and other slippery surfaces manuals are great, but for climbing/rock crawling/ and other technical stuff an auto is just about required. Up here in TN, i have more or less stopped offroading because it is miseriable in the hills with my current gearing (3.07). Down in FL however, a manual is where its at, 2nd gear and mat it! :rock on:

I'll let you know after I take it back to the engine builder. We spec'd out nearly every part, but there is a tick I can't ignore. In my experience I'd rather have my frustration and money back and went elsewhere. LONG story, if I would do it again I would choose a little bit different build. I am used to motors that rev quicker and more freely, this motor is the opposite of that. With the 12 CW crank it revs slow but when it does it gets going quickly. I would rather have done a LS swap, but the money would have been 3 times what I wanted to pay. To be honest the 3800 SC from my Grand Prix would be awesome. In the end I wanted it to look stock and that's what I have. You know how many people walked by the back of the truck and said "4.7L, how did they put that in there?" Once they noticed the engine looked stock and the valve cover said 4.0L they just walked away because they don't know that a 4.0 could be punched out to a 4.7L. 12cw = great for offroad. Slow revving with lots of momentum, it weighs 60 freakin lbs :eek: . Oddly enough the 4cw is the more common and is far more friendly to a typically street driven truck. Much snappier revving. I have heard both horror stories and heavenly stories about people building 4.0 strokers. I was literally days away from pulling the trigger on building a stroker for my MJ as well; money in the machinist's hand, parts delivered to his shop, block, crank, rods, head, everything, the whole sha-bang. Everything was perfect, until i found out i had lost my scholarship for college. It drained every last penny from my stroker funds (entire years worth of saving) to pay for a single lousy semester. Easily the most painful thing i have forced myself to do. I will have my 4.7 i swear it! :fs1: or an ls1, that would be fine ;) Anyway, what combo are you running? 4.2 rods with 4.0 pistons or 4.0 rods with Keith black or Diamond or Ross or Bulltear pistons The folks over at jeepstrokers.com say that if you can swing it, the 4.0 rods are the best way to go because they are slightly longer and allow for less severe rod angles. But most people can't, because it requires pistons with extra high/custom wrist pins. I could go into more detail, but i am pretty sure you know what i am talking about. Also\ Whats your compression ratio? Any pinging issues? Cooling upgrades? Engine management? Did you need to add a FPR?

Spectacular, theres no other word to describe it. :clapping: :clapping: That color is incredible! 100% Bad. @$$.

I highly doubt you will ever break that D30. The D35 on the other hand isnt worth its weight in scrap value. A commuter/street truck is just about all it can handle. There are a few people who have abused the D35 and been lucky, but most of the time they snap like a twig. Unless you are planning on doing a rear axle swap, don't waste a dime on that D35. Both axles are a dime a dozen, so even if you should break the D30 (not likely) a replacement can be found in a matter of hrs. Keep the cable system throw in a locker/limited or weld the front swap the rear axle for a Chrysler 8.25 and a limited slip or leave the D35 until it breaks FPC.

Examples?

The ONLY way to deal with yellow jackets/ground wasps. Safe for your lawn too! :yes:

Very very nice writeup, but i have to ask what about longer drive shafts or SYE? I thought both were more or less required with this much lift?

I have, twice, and it is a HUUUGE PITA. There is a worm gear that runs inside of a metal tube inside the door. This is what went out on mine. I had to pry open the track, not easy, fish out the cable/worm gear and disconnect it from the window itself, also an ordeal. My passenger window still doesnt work 100%, but its better than not working at all. Its honestly better to replace the whole assembly, but no matter how you slice it, it is a major b*tch to change out, not technical, just difficult. I don't know if window regulators can be purchased new for our trucks, it may be a junkyard only thing. Pretty sure years don't matter to much either. FYI, one thing you do need to be prepared for is the fact that the entire assembly is riveted into place, meaning you will have to drill/grind the rivets to free the system and have the necessary hardware to remount it again. Nuts and bolts work fine. FPC