ftpiercecracker1

:drool: , thats is all.

What the F is sticking out the bottom!? :???:

That is what mine does, turn the a/c on and the idle drops dramatically. You can hear the engine struggling. I don't think there is such a relay, for the a/c at least. Some MJs/XJs had an 'extended idle' switch, can't remember why at the moment, but it wasnt for the a/c i know that much. I was under the impression that when you turned the a/c on the computer would sense the extra load on the engine and compensate accordingly, but i really don't know TBH.

LULZ, nice.

That big a** turbo diesel sticker on the sides of the truck is what makes it all worth while IMHO. can't wait for you to get this thing running.

Agreed, changing the CPS is a major beach. Even more so if you come to find out the one you pulled from the jy is a dud. No matter what you decide to do, follow the tips and do the modifications in the writeup posted above.

You guys really think that a seized compressor would stop an engine cold in its tracks? :???: I know OP didnt specify which motor he has, but either way; a 2.5 maybe, but a 4.0? I would be very surprised, i would think the belt would slip long before the engine died. Even if the the compressor circuit did short out the fuel pump circuit, the truck should continue to run for at least a few more seconds and not stall out like someone popped the clutch to quick. Unless OP has a 2.5 and has his belt tighter than a banjo string, i just can't imagine the a/c compressor alone providing enough resistance to stop an engine cold. This does not mean it is not possible, I actually hope that is all there is to it. It would make his life a heck of a lot easier, instead of having to chase down a short god knows where. Best of luck OP, FPC, out.

Why can't you use rtv? :???: It would definitely be messy. IMO, I would think just a good silicone would do the job, :dunno: . and that rubber hose your talking about is probably the breather hose, unless it has tears or breaks in it, replacing it would be a waste. Your hydraulic clutch line should be mostly metal, like brake line, but i have seen some jeeps with soft hydraulic lines, either way if its damaged replace it.

EDIT: STILL TRYING TO FIGURE OUT HOW TO EMBED VIDEOS! :headpop: GOT IT! :thumbsup: It is pretty disgusting how far 'modern country' music has diverged from its roots. Its not even country anymore, its . . . just crap, wannabe rap music with a fiddle or slide guitar thrown in. :ack: I really like the older stuff from Alan Jackson, George Strait, Toby Keith, Brad Paisley and artists like them. There are a few newer songs that i like but i can just about count them on one hand. These two songs by Mr. Jackson really hit me in the heart and i am neither old nor married. Definitely like good ole classic rock and much of the 90s stuff too believe it or not. There are even some *gasp* rap songs that i really like, but most of them i just equate to unintelligible noise. Just remembered another fantastic song that really gets me going. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FU2ntUdbhxc Compared to how obsessed everyone else my age is with music, you would think i was an old scrooge that hated listening to music. I actually love music, my peers just like listening to garbage. :P FYI i have never owned an ipod, mp3 player or any other kind of music playing device and for the better part of the last 3 years i have not had a working radio in my vehicle. FPC, out.

don't break your arm patting yourself on the back! :D

Vacuum is what controls the 'flappers' that divert the air to where ever you want it to go. So, either A. something has gummed up the works and you defrost 'flapper' won't close all the way or B. one of the vacuum lines has a break in it. All it takes is a pinhole for the vacuum to be lost. FYI when you do lose vacuum, defrost is the default position. Its sounds pretty simple to me, since everything else works you obviously still have vacuum. Its probably just a piece of garbage stuck in there somewhere. Maybe, don't fix what aint broke? :dunno:

Wanted to quote this again for emphasis. Probably the best and simplest thing you can do to improve your aging cooling system.

Well, i just got back from a short test drive and all seems well :hmm: I put the hammer down several times without any problem, hesitation, backfire, or otherwise. The only thing left to do is go for a cruise to town (20mi) and see if the stutter/miss at cruise is gone as well. keeping my :crossfingers: FPC

That is supposed to be the drain for condensation that comes off of the a/c condenser inside the cab. All that should come from that tube is pure water, if antifreeze has found its way to that drain it almost certainly means your heater core has sprung a leak. :( EDIT: by the looks of it, it doesnt appear to be to severe, but a leak is a leak and it will only get worse over time.

Finally got around to putting the truck back together, boy how time gets the best of me. Unfortunately i don't think what i did helped, if anything it might be worse. I havent actually driven it yet, but just listening to her run i can tell somethings off. Under hard acceleration she sputters off the bottom and backfires like a cannon. If you raise the rpms slowly she is golden, but if you try and goose her she backfires pretty bad. As of right now I have cleaned the terminals inside the distributor cap, the contact point of the rotor button, and reset my tps to perfection. Input: 4.90v Output: .83v Ground: 0.7 ohms Cat is completely hollow, so my exhaust is not the issue. Fuel pressure is perfect, tested with gauge, 32 @ idle w/ vacuum, 39 without, and jumps up several psi according to throttle input. FYI distributor cap, plugs, and wires are all relatively new (about a year old) and of a higher quality. The problem i am having just came out of the blue one day and progressively became worse, this is after the truck had been running flawlessly for several months prior. Symptoms: Slightly rough idle Hesitation under moderate to hard acceleration VERY loud backfire and mild bogging/hesitation under heavy acceleration Intermittent stuttering and missing while at cruising speeds (60+ mph) FPC,

If your rear leafs are really worn out then the 5.5 coils from RE will probably get you where you want to go and if not adding a small spacer should be all the more lift you would need. To be honest i would definitely start a thread in the tech section so that more people can weigh in, as i have never actually had the opportunity to lift an MJ. . . . . . yet.

don't worry about people replying or not, just because we don't say anything doesnt mean we didnt take notice. FYI, I am broke 98% of the time so i am hardly ever able to make any meaningful progress on my project, so seeing other peoples updates brings me great pleasure knowing that someone, somewhere out there is. :thumbsup:

Potobucket is stupid. You move photos from one album to another and they all freakin disappear. :hateputers:

Unless you can find NOS rocker panels i am afraid you are SOL. Yes, C2C does offer them, but they're version fit about as well as a square peg in a round hole. A few people have used them and have reported that their quality is quite good, just their fitment is severely lacking. Lots of modification to get them even close. As for cab corners, your only hope is to find an MJ in a JY with rust free ones that you can cut out with a portable saws-all.

Well the dude came out, very nice, very professional sounding. Seemed like he did a good job, welcomed me to watch him work, but. . . . . i think they reinstalled the spacer blocks wrong. Instead of laying them long ways and on their side they put them long ways and flat. I will try and snap a picture to help you visualize. In their current oreintation i don't think the trim will snap back into place properly, i might have to notch the trim or try and cut the spacer blocks with my dremel. :crossfingers:

Not so fast. What you wrote is true for the HO versions with the Chrysler ECUs and injection, but the Renix engines have a knock sensor, and higher octane reduces knock. Which means you can work the engine harder without having the knock sensor shut things down. Also, at cruise throttle it allows more spark advance, and that means better fuel economy. I ran my '88 XJ on high test most of the time when I first got it. I was getting in the mid- to high 20s for gas mileage on it. Best ever was 28 MPG for a 250 mile trip. Best ever for me was 21mpg on regular and thats mixed driving, so maybe it is possible. :dunno:

Thanks dudes, I will check on all of these. :thumbsup:

I did a little searching beforehand but couldnt find the answer i was looking for. I remember someone on here mentioning that you want to avoid Mexican made glass and use American made glass if possible, something to do with poor quality. Is this right or just BS? And the other thing, is it recommended to upgrade to the newer rubber trim? If so what do i need to do or tell the installer to bring? Cheapest rate i could find was approx $220 installed with new clips and trim, sound reasonable? That is with them coming to me, 22 miles one way. Thanks gents, FPC out.

WJ knuckle seems to be the be-all-end-all if you want trouble free steering after lifting. Only question is, can it still be done with minimal lift? To complicated, expensive, and unreliable to be feasible for this kind of build. The truck would still 'look' stock at least. The only engine swap that would make sense would be swapping the 2.5 for the 4.0 Sleeving yes, discreet, fairly inexpensive, and highly effective, but i think trussing is a little beyond the scope (lose stock look). ADJ upper and lower control arms, yes. Plating the frame, maybe. Only the most hardcore offroad guys go that extreme. It wouldnt be that hard to do, i just don't think it would be entirely necessary. :dunno: I like and have done the brake upgrade and think it should be on the top of all MJ owners list, off-roader or not. A roll cage would be nice, but it would definitely lose its 'stock' look, exterior or interior. However, bed bars, aftermarket, homemade, or factory that had been strengthened would be an excellent compromise. Is there such a thing as heavy duty U-joints, wheel bearings, or coil springs? A few more that come to mind. HD all metal 2 row radiator Large Trans cooler; for the auto guys. ZJ mech cooling fan or dual electrics Hotter ignition coil? Higher quality plug wires Cap and rotor w/ brass contacts. Alternator relocation; for those that don't want or don't need a/c Factory skid plates (front, gas tank, t-case)

I once found a high dollar one in a JY and decided to put it on for the heck of it, zero noticeable improvement. Its 'supposed' to increase intake charge speeds or create some kind of air vortex that causes the fuel/air to mix better, but i dunno the exact science behind it. :dunno: Bottom line: TB spacers = no improvement = waste of money