ftpiercecracker1

If someone has the cash to buy one now i could reimburse you over the next few months. :yes: EDIT: arent these normally like 2k?

In my opinion, what you have so far is just a generic compilation of comanche related information, which has been done over and oooover. I was expecting something that contained all the pit falls and things to watch out for when thinking of buying and MJ, such as: How bad are Comanches about rusting? Where should i look? even the newest comanche is over 20 years old, so therefore unless it was garage kept all these years or has spent its entire life in a very arid climate (Arizona) it stands a good chance that there will be rust somewhere on it. "Check for rust at these key points, driver side floor board, fender wells, and rocker panels" , (include pictures that show rust in these areas) What rear axle should i look for? "9/10 MJs came with this rear axle (insert pic of D35), but you should look for this (insert pic of D44) shaped rear differential cover" then explain briefly the other available axle (D20, insert pic) and also how aftermarket axles might come into play. Briefly explain the D35's less than stellar rapport, but act as if its rolling death trap. Front axle? 4wd MJs came factory with the Dana 30, (insert Pic) high pinion blah blah blah, 2wd MJs, metal tube blah blah blah (this should be VERY short) Did comanches have "packages"? Which one is the "best"? (include a picture of a truck for each level) Laredo - top of the line, power everything Sport truck - not a clue, just decals? Eliminator - Decals, different interior color scheme Pioneer/Base - Decals, different interior color scheme Comanche X - Not a clue, 86 year model only yes? Comanche XL - ? Metric tonne - What years? More payload/heavier leafsprings, D44 rear axle, RARE. (picture of heavier leafs, D44, Metric tonne badge) LWB - Width and Length dimesions (pic) SWB - " " Explain each years greatest strength/weakness, BRIEFLY. 1986: Engine: 4.0 I6 not offered, 2.5 I4 carberated, underpowered, but reliable 2.8 V6 carberated, complex vacuum system, underpowered, chronically unreliable 2.1 I4 Turbo Diesel, Exceptionally rare, very high MPG, parts = unobtainium, finicky/not as reliable as the 2.5 Trans: torqueflite 904 (don't know) ax-4 ax-5 T-case: np 205 (don't know) 1987 - 1988.5 Pro: 4.0 became available Renix fuel injection AX-15 became available Con: C101 connector (blah blah blah) what you can do about it. . . . 1988.5 - 1990 Pro: no C101 And so on and so forth. Try and make something that your mom could use and still be able to determine the very best MJ to buy for the money. Not only does your mom not need to know about transmission drive ratios, axle shaft dimesions, or the need for sulfur free gear oil she doesnt want to know. The average person, whom i assume this is going to be written for, only needs to know the things that are critically important. If they the really detailed info, put a link at the bottom of the page. If you try to include everything that i think you are trying to include and try to give some buyer's advice you are going to lose all that try to read this but the most savy comanche addicts, such as ourselves. I believe you have very good intentions and would like to see you continue your work, i just believe you are trying to do to much. Best of luck, Cracker :wavey: EDIT: Add where to find production date Driver's side door (Provide pic) Engine bay fire wall, driver's side (Provide pic) Glove compartment (i think)

Making one shouldnt be that hard, with a little piece of sheet metal, a grinder, a drill, and some RTV. :dunno:

Nice wagoneer front clip. :thumbsup: There are very few Cherokee wagoneers left out there and even fewer MJs with a Waggy front end. Mine is the only one i have seen in person and i've only seen 4 or 5 on the internet, ever, including mine and yours. On a side note, I have perfected a safe way to wire the high and low beams together, but retain your regular low beams. If you would like, i can write up a diagram of how i did it. Everything still functions like factory, you just gain extra bright high beams.

SOooooo Beauuuuutiful! :drool: Seriously that truck looks absolutely fantastic. :clapping:

Florida mud, gotta love it and man do i miss it. Looking forward to the big reveal. :popcorn:

I would strongly recommend you remove the dash, I don't think it's even possible without doing so. You shouldn't have to remove the HVAC (air handler) however.

Well, you really only have two options. Cut and solder/splice every single wire from the old harness onto the "new" fuse block OR just replace the entire interior harness with the one you just bought. The only problem with the cut and splice method is the, sometimes, unpredictability of jeep wiring, meaning that just because two wires are the same color doesnt mean they go together. Look over the harness you bought with a fine tooth comb, if you cannot find any defects that can't be easily mended just use the whole thing to replace you original harness. Is the harness you bought from the exact same year model as the truck you have?

Ughhh, now you mention that. :ack: Without actually being i can't really gauge if it would still be worth the risk. Either way i vote junkyard engine, simply for convience and cost sake. Just my 2 cents. I have no idea what 3040le is. :???: Why on earth did you google that?

A Renix with that low of miles is a real find. I would be looking at that thing very hard, especially if you know it ran and ran well when it was parked. Why was it even brought in? Keep in mind that even if you get a junkyard motor it can be cleaned up and painted so that it shines like a new penny. That one for $500 was just the short block right? IF you did go that route i would definately find a 7120 cast head and have it cleaned up/machined and not just slap an old dirty, oil caked head on a brand spanking new short block. That just aint write. :shake: As far as trans i would stick with the AW4 for simplicities sake, but i will be honest i don't have much to offer you in the way of advise as far as best years and such. I have never owned or driven a jeep with one, but they are known the world over as one of, if not the best auto ever to be put in a jeep. Just make sure you have a good size trans cooler if you do go with an AW4

BAHAHAHAHA! :laughin: The truth hurts. . . I know i am just splittin hairs, but i just wanted to make sure everyone understood why Eagle said what he said. :thumbsup:

I will be honest i don't know a thing about soldering. I just took the terminal clamps, heated them up in my forge (same could be done with a torch), filled them to the brim with molten solder, and then jammed the cable ends down into the cups filled with molten solder. Obviously i stripped the cables back a half inch or so. After cooling, they seem to be bonded together just about as good as anything, no crimping involved, never even crossed my mind actually. They guys at the auto parts store, who are exceptionally knowledgeable, didnt even mention crimping. Sooooo :dunno:

Since you already said you work at a junkyard I think it would be a no brainer to find a low mile 4.0 and swap it in. If you have any problems with it you are sittin pretty if you need to exchange/return it. You could probably get a package deal, motor and trans for under 500 bucks. It is understandable if you are worried about getting a lemon, but i think you are in an extremely ideal situation for selecting a junkyard engine and just think about all the other stuff you could do to your MJ with all the money you will save. If its any colsolation, i have about 8,000 miles on my junkyard engine and it runs smoother than the original one. It came out of an 1993 Auto ZJ and i put it into my 1990 manual MJ. FYI, I paid $150 for my engine. At my junkyard they write "Good M&T" on the windshield for "good motor and transmission. Use a breaker bar to verify that the engine turns freely, pull the dipstick and make sure the oil is ok, not foamy, or anything weird. Dirty is ok, but if its black as pitch, you may want to keep looking. Check inside the radiator too, look for oil contamination of the coolant. Look for signs of massive cooling failures, such as large cracks in the radiator, exploded radiator hoses, or, most notiably, very large sections of rust colored powder where, after a massive overheat the coolant that spewed out all over the engine bay evaporates and leaves behind a rust colored powder.

Correct me if i am wrong, but I think what eagle was trying to say was that we don't know if the OP already has anykind of budget lift in place. Like say drop shackles. :smart: But i understand why you (yxmj) said what you said, probably thinking factory equipment all round, yes?

Awesome opossum :thumbsup: very glad to hear that it wasnt what we all feared. Just for good measure when inspecting your battery cables, i would take the time and solder on some heavy truck battery terminal clamps. They are made out of hard aluminum not soft lead so they make a really nice and tight connection. I also like them better because can be removed and retightened dozens of times without breaking/cracking like the crappy lead terminals

This is what you need to do before anything else, if you can't turn that engine over with a breaker bar on the harmonic balancer bolt with relative easy then i am afraid Eagle's diagnosis is right and you now have yourself once serious paper weight. :( After all metal expands when it gets hot. That is propably why the power slowly died when coming to a stop. The tolerances were becoming so tight within the cylinders that engine couldnt physically keep running. Your lucky you made it as far as you did. I certainly hope that me and Eagle are wrong, but i have a bad feeling.

Maybe for a single room workshop or somethin, but for a household?Not so much. But that might make for an interesting little side business. :idea:

Sounds to me like you have answered your own question. :D The "Low Flow" error should be a dead give away, but just you watch, its gonna make a liar out of me. Every single thing you have listed points directly at a clogged cat, its more common than you might think.

How in hell did he manage that i wonder. :???:

:laughin: This is funny, if i am not mistaken that guy is spliting birch. Which i could do with a dull butter knife. I would like to see him try that on a billet of seasoned Oak or Hickory. Up until a few weeks ago, we and by we i mean I, used a 20lb splitting maul made out of steel pipe. But then a friend of ours brought over his hydraulic spliter, i was in heaven. :drool: Woodstoves are great, but ours is inside so we have to deal with the smoke all winter long. It gets very tiring. If i could i would LOVE to have a setup that uses an outdoor woodstove to heat up water and then pumps it into the house, using fans to blow air over the hot tubes and thusly heat the house. Kinda like a reverse radiator. Those things are nice, all the advantages of wood heat with none of the disadvantages. ;)

HEY! I went to the same spot right after work, approximately 9:30pm. You didnt even get into the good stuff, that ditch is gnarly and there is another spot over there by the tractor tailer that was reeeal nice. I thought about going through that culvert area, but decided against it, i probably would have gotten stuck and i don't think the campus police would have appreciated having to pull me out. :D

Well that was easy.

Ah, got it. ;)

From what i can see, the only mystery plug is the first picture or am i missing something? Unfortunately i can't ID that plug, my first thought was the manifold pressure sensor, but it looks like that is already accounted for.

What do you do to get that and how do you enter it? BTW do we have a list of all the retailers that offer CC members a discount? :hijack: