ftpiercecracker1

http://knoxville.craigslist.org/cto/4053220090.html :drool: , BTW what the heck are "dual mirrors"?

I have been in need of ball joints for the last couple of months or so and finally decided on where i was gonna get em. All figures mentioned are for a complete set, 2 upper 2 lower. Local Napa, Napa brand: a little over $350 Spicer: just a shade over $200 after shipping Rockauto: well, they did have some for 5 bucks a piece. . . . MOOG premium: from rockauto, $250 after shipping, MOOG had a LOT of mixed reports, some love them and will use no other while others had nothing but negative things to say. XRF: $135 AFTER shipping, every single review was resoundingly positive. I did a lot of research before i went with XRF, nearly every online conversation/source said the same thing. Spicer is good, but expensive while XRF is just as good, but a lot less. Their company is based out of Michigan, but i was greatly saddened to learn that their factories are located overseas. I did make me feel a little bit better when i read MADE IN TAIWAN and not China, still, wish it could have been Germany or the US. Customer service was good, not awe inspiring, but . . . . effective shall we say. Shipping was quick, ordered the parts Monday, they arrived Wednesday. First time having handled ball joints. Unlike other cheap replacement parts, that are normally made from crap, these feel well made and of good quality. Once i get them installed i will report back, probably not going to be until the following weekend (10/6/13)

Bench Grinder. :yes: Just take off a little at a time, as evenly as possible, until you can hammer it in. It will take many tries until you get it right. I suppose the proper way would be to take it to a machinist, but i didnt have that luxury.

Yes and no. I do, eventually, want to do an auto swap, but i don't have the funds to even be considering it at this point. It was pretty much an impluse post. :P I think the main reason i hate my manual is because of the tall gears (3.07) and having to live in such a hilly area (Middle TN). Once i find the money to put some lower gears in i think my opinion will change dramatically. I really shouldnt be complaining, after all i do have the AX-15. :thwak:

The pilot bearing will need to be drove in using a wooden dowel and a BFH. With it lined up perfectly and a little bit grease it should slide right in. Keep in mind this is a VERY precise fit, meaning that even a few thousandths off will make it impossible to get it to go into the crank, the same thing will happen if the bearing is miss aligned. I have no idea about the CJ pilot bearing, so i would wait to hear from a few other people. This is just a little info on installing pilot bearings.

What are you gonna do with that AW4? :peek: Is it broken?

Personal, first hand experience here. I have a 93 ZJ 4.0 in my 90 and the only problem i ran into was the pilot bearing. Neither work with the other. The ZJ was an auto and my MJ a manual. I ended up making the MJ bearing work. Bare/Bear? in mind that all Renix electronics were kept. I did keep the 7120 head and installed a squid design intake as well, but thats another story.

I think the best platform for an extended cab build would be a long bed. That way when you bob the front of the bed it is still acutally useable. My question is how in the hell would you recreate the body lines and the curve at the bottom? :hmm:

Sticky? :idea:

I am curious to know what you are basing those figures off of? I am assuming that year must have come with both the better head (7120?) and the octopus intake, correct? Other than that what was done to improve performance? :hmm:

Take a looksee. I don't really care for the body style all that much, but i guess it could be a lot worse. :dunno: http://www.autoxprize.com/category/jeep-comanche/

Been there, done that!! Apparently, old, rusty, compact car jack stands cannot hold up the front end of a 2000 Toyota Tundra. *CRUNCH!!*

Sweet dude, are you here to stay in murfreesboro? I have been going to MTSU for the past 3 years and havent seen but one other MJ on campus. Never found out who owned it either. Maybe we could meet up on campus sometime. Glad to hear you made it into town okay.

Resharpen the teeth on the rotating assembly using a cutting blade and a grinder. Also weld on a new "tip" for the locking mechanism. Grind down to fit. I still have not perfected mine, but thats only because i am to lazy/busy to tear that whole mess out and fix what needs fixin. But, the rebuild platform is sound and can be made even better than factory with a little fine tuning.

Junkyard. :thumbsup: Gotta find a factory one, not really that hard honestly.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/34536-diy-e-brake-fix/

I liked the other box better, but that's just MHO. But other wise, its lookin sweeeeet. :thumbsup:

I dunno either, just got off of work and headed straight to the library to do homework. Aaany who, my a/c system is frankenstien system anyway. Condensor, thing in front of rad, and compressor are off of a late model Cherokee from a junkyard. Spun freely when I bought it, and the system was still fully pressurized when I took it apart. The dryer is the only new component on the whole system. I think a biggest issue is the fact that the guy I had "recharge" it, did a really s****y job. I was standing there helping/watching him do it and he only pulled a vacuum for like 30 seconds. :shake: I knew it wasn't right, but who am I to question an actual mechanic. :hijack:, BIG time. :D

If the compressor's clutch was going bad there wouldn't be a strain on the motor to begin with. No clutch = no strain. Right? :dunno:

All metric tonne trucks did, but that doesn't mean that all others didn't. And as for the rear slider, it can be extremely difficult. You will need a screwdriver and a pick of some sort to remove the rubber gasket and then a very stiff/strong knife and a long thin section of cable. Pencil lead diameter or smaller. A good pair of gloves it a must as well. Once you have the gasket out, use your knife to bunch a hole through the sealant creating a slit for the cable to be fished through, very difficult. Once the cable is through, use to pieces of wood dowel to form handles on both ends. Or don't and just use your hands, hence the gloves. Use the cable to "saw" through the sealant around the window until it is free. Removing the rear slider is possible, I did it myself using the very technique above, but it is VERY difficult. Good luck. :thumbsup:

This would be useful for me as well, because whenever I turn my a/c on my idle drops to 200rpms, I've even had it stall a few times.

Awesome. :thumbsup:

First i was thinking Oh sh*t, I work at Lowes. What the hell is going on that i don't know about. Then i read the rest of it and started both laughing and crying at the same time, because i have never had the pleasure of being roped into this horrible terrible scam and i live and go to college. :cry: But ya know, I guess it would be kinda of difficult anyway, seeing as the MJ is a single cab. I guess some people get to have all the fun. EDIT: Hey, Jimoshel how bout sharing some of them phone numbers?? :D

Ya, when ever you know, let me know. :thumbsup:

Man that is smokin. My only nitpick, and this is purely personal preference, are the bush wackers. For some reason i have never really cared for them. My personal taste aside, you have one killer truck. I've gotta know where you got that tool box, that is exactly what i have been looking for. If you don't mind my asking, how much did it set you back? How do you like it?