ftpiercecracker1

any discount coupon? :brows: EDIT: also the original spread sheet link no longer works. :(

Any difference, except for price? Even though i am in no position to be buying parts for a lift at this moment, i am considering buying these simply because they are priced so low. http://mudflaps.com/cart.html http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.com/Suspension-Lift-Kits/Rubicon-Express-Suspension/Rubicon-Express-Components/Suspension-Components/Coil-Springs-Spacers/Rubicon-Express/Rubicon-Express-Coil-Springs-MJ-XJ-5.5-ZJ-4.5

More like, impossible for anyone that doesn't have access to a machine shop and deep pockets. :fs1: http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/brakes/xj_wjbrakes03/index.htm

$500 bucks, Holy Sheet :eek:

After learning that my ball joints will need to be replaced i wonder if there is something i can do to improve the durability/strength/reliability of the factory steering system. Every time i take my truck out i am always fearful i am going to fudge something up. The factory steering seems to be painfully under engineered for any kind of offroading. As of right now my truck is more or less stock. It does have coil spacers and 31 ATs, factory 3.07 gears and D35. My final goal for the truck is to have something i can take out and wheel fairly hard, but to be able to get off the trail and drive home as if nothing had happened. Here are the conversions that i know of WJ steering conversion High Steer conversion One Ton conversion Various ZJ steering upgrades and quick steer box out of a Wrangler, I think. If there is anything else please list it.

Okay, finally pulled the plug on the ALT, the two wires going into it are a solid yellow wire and a tan w/ a black stripe. Tan with a black stripe read about .13 volts and the yellow was 12.48, pretty much full battery voltage.

Aaaah come'on wombat you know its fun. :D

Man, that rad sticks out like crazy. How come you didnt have some kind of custom 3 row, all aluminum one built? Actually i think they sell ready made radiators that are capable of cooling the LS1, don't they? Novak maybe? For all the money you are putting into this build i wouldnt think that would have been to far of a stretch would it? EDIT: http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/cooling/radiators/xj/k-xj11h.htm Ouch, 600 bucks is a good chunk. Do you have any pictures of how you installed your radiator?

Is that your radiator sticking down? :hmm:

How can you tell its getting fuel by looking down the TB, even the 2.5s are EFI as far as i know. EDIT: Oh, wait . . . just read your sig, 86 year model so is it carb or TB injection? Either way, it would seem checking for spark would be the next step.

And if not?

On the (+) battery terminal there is the large 2 gauge wire that is directly ran to the starter. The other is a smaller possible 10-12 gauge wire ran directly to the starter relay stud. Its very short, maybe 7 inches long. When the battery slid over it yanked the small wire out of the ring connector that attachs it to the starter relay stud. EDIT: i checked the alternator wiring and all seems intact and fine. Aside from the plug in the back of the ALT there is a medium heavy gauge red wire that runs from the back of the ALT directly to the starter relay stud. I would assume this is how the ALT supplys power to the battery and the rest of vehicle.

That is some sh*t. :clapping:

Well then we got problems sister. :help: During a routine U turn i had to drop off the curb, it was a good jar, but nothing i had not encountered before only this time the truck died along with all electronics as soon as i got back into my lane. Like i turned the key off, instant. Thankfully, i was in a nearly deserted area so traffic was a non issue. I popped the hood to discover that the wire that runs from battery positive to the starter relay had been yanked out, which to my understanding is basically where/how power is distributed throughout the rest of the vehicle. So i stuck it back in as best i could and the truck fired right back up and all electronics came back, no worries i thought. I will just pull that wire back out, tuck it out of the way, and make the neccessary repairs at home. So i went back under the hood and pulled the same wire back out, truck ran great for about three more seconds and then boom, dead, instantly. Again like someone turned the key off. I went through the same procedure once more with the same results. I KNOW my alternator is working, i have checked at the battery with a multimeter to confirm and my voltmeter in the cab is ready a rock steady 13.98v, approx. Sooo what gives? :dunno:

man, its just one right after the other. . . 1987 Jeep Comanche - $1250 (Powder Springs ) I have a 1987 Jeep Comanche for sale. It is 2wd, inline 4, 4 speed. This car can make a great off roading car or work car! has a little dent on back and little one on side but otherwise it's a great car! I have put a lot of man work into this car and a lot of new parts. Brand new ignition coil, crankshaft position sensor, 2 new rear tires, rear brakes, and cerpentine belt. The only problem is that it's not running right now. I know it's a spark problem but I brought it to mechanic and said its easy fix but I need to sell this car to get one with better gas mileage. This one get 19-20 in city and 23-24 on highway. I am flexible on the price because it won't run. For more information text or call 518-258-5101. Needs to be gone before August 16! It's the last year that it was a true American jeep! Car, car, car, car CAR!! Only until the very end does he actually call it a jeep. :fs1:

Aaaaand another one, http://atlanta.craigslist.org/eat/cto/3964829751.html 1989 Jeep Comanche - $2500 (Covington, GA) Rare 1989 Jeep Comanche! One owner since new, and under 90k original miles. Options include leather bucket seats, leather wrapped title steering wheel, AC, removable sun roof, cruise control, 6.0 liter motor, 5 speed, with dual exhaust. Well maintained all its life. Truck is located in Covington GA. $2,500 or BO. Please call (857)-233-8281, no texting please.

http://knoxville.craigslist.org/cto/3969201262.html Jeep Comanche (Oneida,Tn) I have for sale or trade for a 4X4 jeep Cherokee.This 87 is more for the trail than the road but either would work.Looks to have a lift and has the 4Cly motor and the 4 spd trans.Runs out good,body is bumped around some and the exhaust is a little load because of someones homemade patch work.Not a bad 4X4 truck for the money. $1500.00 O.B.O. Cash or 4x4 Cherokee trade only!

Bringing this one back from the grave. . . . but at least its pretty impressive. http://atlanta.craigslist.org/antidisestablishmentarianism/cto/3980574130.html

Will our trucks continue to run if battery positive is disconnected? Under the circumstance that the alternator and all associated wiring is intact and functioning as intended. This question is pertaining specifically to a 90, 4.0l, ax-15 equipped MJ with no modifications.

Thanks Kid, i really appreciate it. :waving:

My ball joints are shot and I would like to get spicer brand replacements or something comparable. But i don't know where to look or what even to look for. If someone has a specific link/part # that would be terrific. thanks, ftpiercecracker EDIT: and universal joints, part # or link, spicer brand or similar quality.

That has to be the old transmission line that the PO never removed. You need to trace that line to determine exactly where it is coming from before you start yanking on it.

A master piece, truly it is. We must know more about the build process.

:agree: Entirely.

Never heard of any 4.0 getting above 18 highway aside from someones dads brothers best friends jeep. I literally just got back to TN driving up from FL yesterday, with two grown individuals in the cab, a little over a 800 lbs in the bed and an idiotically tall topper (its a freakin sail) i got 17.2 mpg on the highway, driving 65mph. Completely empty, no topper, and one person in the cab i got 15 mpg spot on doing purely city driving.