360MJDude

Maybe that's part why I can't get the tach to work.... I know on older cars if for say you unhook the coil to distributor wire and try and crank it the tach still registers. Is this the same for this year jeep?

its not all that hard, I just wish the tach worked

Na doesn't throw a check engine light

Funny thing is I used two computers. The 99 cherokee computer for the gauges and the dodge engine computer for engine control. The reason i did it this way was because I had stated installing the dash before I had realized that the gauges run from the computer (ie not like old stuff where it just runs straight to the gauge from the sending unit) So therefor I installed the gauge computer behind the passenger air bag cover (didnt use airbags) and used the respective sending units for the gauges ran them to the computer and then computer to the gauges. If i had known this before hand I might not have done the dash swap. But oh well everything works except for the tach. I don't know what to supply the gauge computer from the engine to make the tack work. Ive tried neg tack trigger and crank sensor but still can't seem to get it to work. Maybe some one can figure this out for me.....

The paint is fairly decent on the truck and didn't want to have to get it painted. Plus the 99 Cherokee i was getting parts from was a cash for clunker which is now dead and buried in the scrap pile :(

Yeah i already ordered the euramtec lights and window switches. Yeah i think i like the clear corners....thanks though

Don't remember what motor mounts I used right off hand. I have the napa part numbers at home and will let you know what they are. We did weld mounts to the frame and can get some pics if you would like. The headers are summit brand block hugger http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G9064/ bare headers with POR 20 applied. Didn't prep them well enough for the Por but worked for mock up and for now. The stock oil pan cleared. We set the motor so that the oil pan would clearance the front axle by a few inches. The exhaust is a mandrel bend kit we cut and welded to fit. Its tight

1986 Jeep Comanche XLS 5.9 360 V8 FI / 46RH / NP242 / D30 / D20? / Long Bed Build date: (its on the driverside door sticker, in the form of month and year) Current Location: Salisbury, NC Status: Finalizing full engine project and interior upgrade Notes: Anything that makes this comanche different from the rest. Skid plates, plows, lights, bumpers, weird factory options... Would also be a good place to note the exterior color, and the interior color and combination, IE, Bench or buckets, Vinyl or cloth, column shift or floor shift.

I put the GC springs bc I wanted the v8 spring rate. I didn't notice any height difference until I put the spacers on to help provide clearance between the axle/steering and oil pan. Ive saw in a coil spring spec book (NAPA) that the ride height of the I6 and the V8 were the same.

I put a 2" spacer on mine to level out the front even though I got v8 coil springs from a grand Cherokee and also the pitman arm to keep steering geometry.

ok ok i know face book is ghey and got a new video for you...its worth it, I will work on getting them all on youtube

Thanks guys... Hopefully will have it on the road within a few weeks and can have a decent burnout video or something cool

well head gaskets were blown, tore it back down, both heads were cracked. Must happen to alot of magnum engines. Machine shop wanted 600 for new redesigned castings...didn't want to go that route since its almost worth more that the whole truck. Place we bought engine and trans from ended up letting us have another used set, ended up being good. so got them resurfaced, valve job and new seals. and all gaskets. finished the engine compartment (except for the intake) pvc and duck tape doesn't look to professional. http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=455462623848 http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=455449713848 http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=470603668848

I've done this with a couple of my buddies Jeeps. Ordered a inline radiator water filler neck from Summit racing (SME-xxxx 1.25 in/out) and placed it above the a/c compressor so it makes it the highest point and added a universal overflow from the parts store and some 3/8 heater hose. Depending on the filler neck you could do it for less than $50.00

Thanks guys looks like I'm doing it