ftpiercecracker1

:agree:

No idea, not my picture. Only used it for a reference, but it is sexy aint it. :brows:

I agree 100%, not only will pulling the seat let you get at your E brake cable, which has probably rusted in half, but you will also be able to check for dreaded floor board rust. :ack:

When you said there was no comparison, I did not understand which one was the better one? The merc or the 4bt, I would assume it was the Cummins, but you know what they say about assuming.

I like your analogy. :thumbsup: But can't a poorly rebuilt engine run perfectly fine for many thousands of miles? How would you know when and if a rebuilt engine would be"ready" for the next step? Like a super, turbo, or NOS. Even if you rebuild an engine and it is dead nuts perfect to spec, at no point in its life will it be able to support any of the pre mentioned performance boosters, at least for any length of time. I know i am REALLY belaboring this. ;) but i just really like talking performance stuff. Either way i think the best path is what has already been said. Your first step is to rebuild your engine. During which you upgrade the appropriate internals so that if the basic rebuild passes muster, lets say 500 miles :dunno:, it will be safe to add the supercharger. I can't wait to see the finished product. :D

Ya, i guess i got a little carried away. Its just when i read what you, put . . . :eek: , i was thinking where in the world would i find those? My steering wheel is the three spoke w/ the plasitc cover w/ JEEP in the center and those fake plastic allen screws. Like this one.

Can you explain in a little greater detail why? I actually do know exactly why one would choose to wait, but i am having a major brain fart and can't seem to make my thoughts into words and need to hear it explained. :dunce:

Is the single cable coming in from the front of the equalizer loose?

Got it, no horn for me. :doh:

Are you refering to the two cables that enter the back of the equalizer?

1989 4.0 5spd I have narrowed down the issue with the horn to the thingy inside the steering column, whatever device allows the steering wheel to turn 360* and still maintain connection. That is my problem. How do i go about replacing/fixing it? Yes my horns work Yes my relay funtions Yes I have continuity between relay and steering column BUT, When I test for continuity between the bottom of the steering column and the little button deal under the steering wheel cap i get very erratic ohm readings when turning the wheel. Thus my conclusion. I have heard it is not fun to replace it, whatever it is. :(

Check Ground, then look for 12v at the fuel pump plug. Fuel pump ground can be found behind the rear driver side tail light, common problem spot. Also if you are not getting 12v to the pump check/replace/bypass the fuel pump ballast resistor.

What fuel issues are you having?

Lets here about these options. :D And $800 is simply an incredible deal.

Wow, for $1800 :eek: thats a steal. At least where i come from. ;)

Tires are brand new Wrangler radials, not even a 1000k on them Mech tested and said D side was tight as a button, P side had a insignificant amount of play, tiny. Already done, several times. There is a tiny bit of movment where the track bar mounts to the axle, probably less than a 1/32nth of an in. But I can also watch all my control arms move back and forth about 1/16th of an inch as i turn the wheel from clock to clock. :hmm: Granted i havent done it in a while because the truck has been parked, I had the tires balanced and the steering aligned on three separate occasions all within a month, trying to solve this problem back before i tore the truck down. Probably will have it done again here shortly.

1989, 4.0, 4x4, 5spd, bone stock Truck is butter smooth until you reach 55mph, like i said its not death wobble but it deffinately has a severe shake that only gets worse as speed increases. It is coming thru the steering wheel almost entirely. I have and my mech has also, inspected the front end and all typical trouble spots. Nothing was found to be out of place and all tie rods ends were tight. Most TRE are newer, track bar is newer, steering stabilzer is new. The only thing that has me thinking now are my control arm bushings. My mech said they were in perfectly acceptable condition, but i don't know where else to look. The bushings for the control arms are a little dryrotted on the outside but show no signs of falling out or slipping. If the Track Bar is supposed the keep the axle from moving side to side it would seem that the joint on the frame side of the track bar would do nothing to prevent movement. Seeing as how all it is, is a TRE, that which can move in all directions.

Forgive my ignorance, but is this TIG or MIG? It looks like a MIG box.. And whats with the water tank system? Is that to prolong the duty cycle? And why didnt you go with one of the big three?

Damn! that is clean. :eek: I mean DAMN! :drool:

I FIGURED IT OUT BY GEORGE!! Ok, just FIY here is a representation of what went wrong. By cutting the wire where i did, i simply disconnected the power source for my a/c relay. Which FYI is the very FOWARD most relay, the relay closest to the FRONT of the vehicle. To make sure my system was indeed working. I replaced the severed wire at the relay, bypassed the pressure switch at the Dryer/reciever, plugged in the a/c compressor and put my selector on MAX a/c. When i inspected my compressor, nothing was happening, as i expected. BUT once i applied the missing incoming 12v to the relay ( put the wire on battery positive) the compressor immediately came on. Then to make sure the switch inside was working, i turned the a/c OFF and re-applied the 12v, and just as is supposed to happen, the a/c clutch remained DISengaged. Now all i have to do is wait for my new Reciever/dryer to come in and it will be all systems go for sweet sweet air conditioning.

I know what you mean. :doh: As far as the relay is concerned, that is probably where my problem lies. Long story short, i cut and removed a few wires, one of which was probably part of my a/c relay. The only wire that does not have a home on my bank of relays is an orange wire w/ a black stripe. If i could get my hands on a diagram of that particular relay i know it would be obvious what is missing and where it goes.

Just like the title says, any body got one? 1989 Renix 4.0 with factory a/c. I am getting 12v to the plug that goes to the reciever/drier (two wires grn w/ black stripe) when the selector inside is on MAX, NORM, or BI-LEV, but even if i jump the connector, bypassing the pressure switch in the dryer the a/c clutch does not engage. A/C clutch is in perfect working order, because if i unplug the single connector to it (solid orange wire) and place it directly onto battery positive the clutch immediately engages without difficulty. System is totally depressurized and disconnected as far as a/c lines, so i am not looking for cold air at the moment. I am simply trying to get the eletrical aspect to work before paying someone to charge it up. thanks ftpiercecracker

Good news, i took a trip to the JY and found a condesor, a/c line, and compressor in great shape and already pulled out. Who ever did it took care not to damage the parts. Also FYI a everything i got came from a newer cherokee, didnt get the exact year, but it was definately newer 95+. The only thing that is necessary for it to work on a Renix jeep is the mounting bracket and thats it ALL fittings thread on perfectly, much to my suprise and delight. I need to make one more trip to pick up the proper bracket and order a reciever/dryer and i will be ready to have wonderful wonderful a/c again. :banana:

Awesome. :chillin:

Yoda (jimoshel) says Learn patience, you must. :D