ftpiercecracker1

Questions: 1. What can i use as a ballast resistor? Where can i buy one? Is it generic? Do you have a picture of one handy? Because i have no idea if his CJ even has one any more. Where would it be located? 2. How do you tell the difference between a 258 and a 232?

Agreed, :yes:

Its just going to take time as this is probably the hardest part when it comes to driving a five speed. From a dead stop facing up hill your best bet will probably be to hold the brake with one foot and slowly let off the clutch with the other until you can feel it start to engage ( the engine will begin to labor) once that happens you need to make a quick but controlled switch over from the brake to the gas, give it a little while continuing to let up on the clutch. If done right you should be able to take off again smoothly without jumping and without rolling backwards. Hope this helps ftpiercecracker

Just go the junkyard and pull the heater hoses off of a 97+ cherokee. Heater valve nonsense is deleted and they are a direct fit.

Gear change and a set of MJ metric ton springs, dual diaphram brake booster, probably upgrade your brakes in general. If you don't already, you absolutely need to build/buy a proper hitch receiver. The 4.0 is a pretty torquey motor, but if you want some real muscle you could think about building a stroker for it.

Thats looks great Bio. Am i to understand that the two wires going to the Ignition switch are actually coming from it? Because power should be going to the solenoid from the switch, not the other way around right?

That would be terrific. What i have figured out today is that, unlike my MJ which has its solenoid bolted to the top of the starter, a CJ's starter, or at least this one, has an internal solenoid. There is a remote starter solenoid that is responsible for sending and cutting power to the starter. I removed this from my friends CJ because none of it was wired and my friend had no idea what he was doing. This is the style starter we are working with. If you could give me a diagram of how the Starter Solenoid and Coil are wired i would greatly appreciate it.

I am running a similar setup to neohic, but both of mine are 97 cherokee 10 blade fans. Each has their own dedicated relay. One is wired to a 210/on 195/off temp switch in the thermostat, while the other is wire to the stock system, only coming on with the a/c, defrost, and if the engine temp exceeds 240*. 240 is WAY to high for me but the only switch i have found that meets my needs costs $50. Even with just my one fan running nearly 100% of the time my engine never exceeds 200 even in the hottest situations.

A friend of mine has a 74 CJ5 that he just can't seem to get going, so i went to help him out today. I discovered it to be the saddest most hacked, spliced, and patched together jeep i have ever encountered. Here is how far we got today, all electrical aspects have been stripped out, most everything was held together with BREAD TIES or fencing wire. The only wires left now are the spark plug wires, coil power, coil ground, and positive and negative cables for the battery. Since its an old 258 it has a mechanical fuel pump and carb so we wanted to see if the old girl would even run. The starter has a hidden solenoid and there is only one stud, to which the battery positive cable it attached. By touching the negative battery cable to the starter body we could reliably turn the engine over, a small victory. However, if i were to touch the negative battery cable to ANY metal section of the jeep it arcs as if i were touching battery negative to positive directly. I am talking huge HUGE arcs. Battery cables and clamps are new, YES they are wired to their proper terminals, the starter is also fully functioning. Battery positive is ran directly to the starter with zero splits. The engine desperately wants to run, but as soon as it catches it immediately dies. It has a mechanical fuel pump, fresh fuel being pulled directly from my clean gas can and a new igintion coil. Starting fluid only seems to make it worse. Ftpiercecracker.

Killer name and very fitting. Its a thing of beauty Gamble. :thumbsup:

If you want to be safe just use generic electrical cleaner spray and a very small wire brush, and if its really goopy maybe a pick or a screwdriver to scoop out the worst of it.

http://c2cfabrication.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=1_21_38&products_id=19852 They carry left and right liners, along with a butt-ton of other hard to find stuff. Get comanche fender liners.

Have you ever pulled a plug and actually checked for spark? Or should i say no spark. Another thing, don't rely on the sound of your fuel pump to confirm fuel delivery, check it at the scrader valve on the fuel rail.

Can you see the bead? ;)

Way to go, knucklehead. :teehee: But seriously good job. :thumbsup:

3ft Pipe wrench. :yes: I watched a video on installing coil spacers not that long ago and they made mention that some of these "bumper" dealybobs can be welded or simply non removeable. They were working on an 89 cherokee. However, i just added coil spacers to my 90 and they were a snap to remove with my good ole pipe wrench.

Man, that looks great! :clapping:

Not following you. :hmm: I think he means that he wouldn't mod it and just leave it as-is. :thumbsup: :yeah that: Gotcha. :D

When i bought my truck it had perfect mud flaps, sadly i tore/cut them off and pitched em in the garbage. This was when i was completely ignorant of CC or comanches in general. Letting the beating commence. :thwak:

You gotta be kidding me Jim. :eek: :rotf:

Not following you. :hmm: Nice samurai, by the way. Smallest 4wd vehicle ever to be leaf sprung front and rear i do believe.

Click on product line, then springs, then you have to scroll over until you get to the JEEP section, then scroll down until you find MJ. And actually they seem to still carry both regular and MT.

Like 87 said, there is a vacuum operated valve on the heater lines that this would go to. Green wire would be for factory fogs, (i think) Red wire not sure, maybe power for the fogs? I do believe this is the vent line for transmission Not even the foggiest idea, blue wire maybe for one of the horns? The rubber line goes to the Charcoal canister, hard metal line runs back to the fuel tank and eventually the tank vents.

As soon as i was done posting this topic i scooted over to Hell Creek and according to their site they are indeed still selling MJ springs, metric ton only as it seems. Shipped to my door it would set me back 235ish, which doesnt sound bad whatsoever, but right now i'm so broke its not even funny. :( I can't even afford to rub two nickles together. Blue, what are you running for shocks? How stiff is the ride? Has the payload increased noticably?

My truck has the typical D35 and stock springs and it has become apparent that they just arent up for what i use the truck for. To give you an idea, i have a topper on the truck, all aluminum (two people can carry it) and some wood in the bed and its squatting pretty far, with the spare tire removed too. I would love to get my hands on some Metric Ton springs, but i know the are about as rare as hens teeth. So i was wondering if there is a substitute? Do i have to make my own bastard pack? Can stronger springs be bought? AAL? Ftpiercecracker