ftpiercecracker1

XRF. Done. End of story. :thumbsup:

Cruiser, do you always have to ruin my fun? :rolleyes:

Not near her right now, i will have to check. But it still doesnt change the fact that it is a Renix.

How bout drillin a smaller hole and plugging it with a boat plug?

My mj was made in december of 89, it is a Renix AND the side markers also blink with the lowers. In sync with HL OFF, alternating with them ON. Guess i'm just special. :dunce:

Before: I picked this little gem (front clip) off of a fellow CC member here in TN. After: Am i one of the cool kids now? I think yes. :yes:

I would really like get a HD headlight harness, but there is a slight problem. . . Before i did the front clip swap, i had the plain jane factory clip with Silverstar Silva's HL (or whatever they are called) They pulled so much that not even my dims would stay on, in desperation i just N-word rigged a relay so that at least i would have use of my high beams, the wiring was ugly as all get out, but it worked perfectly until the day of the swap. I was kinda of hoping that with the factory headlights i wouldnt have to worry about it, i guess not. I really don't want to have to cut up this unmolested harness, but if i have to i will. Hornbrod, the last time i messed with the switch i did have a melted connector. Which i did my best to fix. I am afraid there is something deeper going on here and not just local to the HL switch. :(

Low beams work fine, but the high beams after running for about 10 min will begin to cycle on and off. On for 6 sec, Off for 8 sec, On for 7 sec, Off for 7 sec, so on and so forth. Headlights are factory output, no fancy dancy HIDs or H4s. I am already pretty darn sure its a headlight switch issue, but before i go diving head first into my dash (again) i wanted to ask the local panel of experts. Ftpiercecracker.

Yup!!! Been there, done that. :fs1: Mine fell into the bed frame, i eventually fished it out after about 3hrs. Magnetic wands are an amazing invention.

Not sure how that has anything to do with the OPs original issue.

But the serp belt doesn't drive anything crucial to staying running, does it? The engine cut out after running like $#!&, making no power for ten seconds. I suppose the alternator could do some weird stuff when it's stopped suddenly, but that would correct itself and not kill the engine, right? My thoughts exactly, are you sure you have your thinkin cap on straight hornbrod? :hmm: With all that coolant going everywhere a short would seem to be inevitable and almost without doubt the answer.

And he ain't freaking kidding, the first time i had to replace a leaking injector i nearly passed out when he rang me up. "What do you mean FIFTY FIVE DOLLARS AND THIRTY SEVEN CENTS?!?!" For me personally, i just went to the junkyard and plucked 2 good looking sets of FORD 5.0 injectors. The extra set was insurance in case any of them leaked. I have since put about 8,000 miles on the junkyard injectors without a single issue. :thumbsup:

If you can smell fuel you should probably start looking for the leak. If no leak is found, your MAP sensor my be "kaput" and flooding the engine.

Sounds to me like you have a bad connection/broken spot in the wiring harness. Are the retaining clips for the injector plugs still there? If you look where the electrical connector plugs into the injector you should see a tiny itty bitty silver clip. These clips are what keep the connector firmly attached to the injectors.

Remember the whole bit i wrote about not listening to your own brain? I was cutting a section of pipe from the bottom up with my angle grinder. Incredibly dum, I know. The 3ft pipe was only welded on one end, the other was just in open air. I knew it was a very foolish way to cut the pipe, but i did it anyway. About 3/4 of the way through, it did exactly what i had expected it to do. The 2ft of pipe that i was cutting off came down and pinched the cutting wheel of the grinder, shattering it, leaving it super jagged and also giving me the worst case of "kickback" ever. The sequence of event; pipe fell, which pinched the blade, which shattered the blade and kicked the grinder with what was left of the blade back at me. Jagged wheel still rotating at 11,000rpm took a chunk out of my forearm when it hit and gave me several cat scratches before i could blink.

Don't forget that if you plan on doing this, you will also need to swap the power steering pump and fashion a TPS adapter. There are literally dozens of right ups on the internet covering the 99+ intake swap. Parts list: 99+ intake Different power steering pump (bolt on, easy) TPS adapter (can be difficult) Different length belt (the new steering pump makes your original belt unusable) Different Intake Gasket (because, why would you use the old one?) Different fuel rail (Renix mounting holes don't line up) Custom fuel lines (Don't be scared there easy) Sooo, all tallied you need to do a ton of work just for the fancy new intake. :dunno:

Nope. http://c2cfabrication.com/store/index.php?cPath=1_21_38&sort=4a&page=1

Empty Post

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/how-i-just-put-new-floorpans-patched-holes-xj-lots-pics-372669/ http://comancheclub.com/topic/24600-project-1992-michigan-comanche/ Read. Learn. Apply. Adapt. :thumbsup:

Sweeeet. 8) Doesnt get much cooler than that.

Really? :hmm:

Looking forward to the final product. :popcorn:

Unit bearing.

What if there is no fluid loss, only a loss of clutch pressure. Example: Clutch engaged with the transmission in gear, the clutch will fully re-engage after about 10sec regardless of the pedal being down.

Care to share how much you paid to have that done and what the final dimensions were?