ftpiercecracker1

. . . . if you don't like my driving. There, finished it for ya. :yes:

Its out of a ZJ. Its a "warmer weather" project. Quick steer, soon you shall be MINE!!! :wrench:

Sh*tty phone = Sh*tty pictures Running lights: Dims/Low beams: Brights/High(er) beams:

Same as Comanche County, mines just not as purty.

The other day i too was at the JY and happened upon an 89 two door cherokee with power windows. I know i know, i was like a little school. . . OH muy Gawd! OH Mah GAwd!! OOH MAH GAWD!!! Uber rare, so i have been told. Everything was there and intact, only problem was, the driver side door was jammed shut, it was starting to rain, it was freezing cold, and i was going to be late for class. In the end i left empty handed, oh well, i think the 97 plus two door switches are more rarer.

Oh i done diddly solved that problem :yes: And to be honest the factory Wagoneer high beams were a lot brighter than my factory MJ high beams. :dunno: http://comancheclub.com/topic/41722-higher-high-beams-wagoneers-only/

Screw Rhino/Raptor liner, the only bed liner worth a bent nickle is LINE-X. That being said my truck has a factory drop in bed liner. I removed it about a year ago to properly clean and inspect. I was mesmerized at how pristine the inner bed was, save for a few spots where the liner had rubbed through the paint, the surface was utterly flawless. Vastly different in comparison to the soft ball sized rust holes on the outside of the body/bed.

No. :grrrr: I have been wanting to snap one, but my phone is waaayy to low tech for that and I don't have my regular camera with me.

A brake caliper can certainly fail without leaking. They simply seize up, but most of the time they seize while under a braking load. I.E. They fail to retract after releasing the brake peddle. Had this happen 3 times on my truck. Cheap Chink Calipers = You get what you pay for :thwak: .

Does it only do it when driving it hard? Just driving around normally, does it run fine otherwise? When was the last time you changed your fuel filter?

Waggy all the way :rock on: , they are exceedingly rare and look totally bada** on an MJ, IMHO of course. Oh i done diddly solved that problem :yes: And to be honest the factory Wagoneer high beams were a lot brighter than my factory MJ high beams. :dunno: http://comancheclub.com/topic/41722-higher-high-beams-wagoneers-only/

Don't you have a girlfriend Jim? :hmm: :D

IBC the only "beer" i drink and as for hunting. New potential offroading locations. :D

9th post down, I also recommend doing the "Advanced CPS Mod" as well. http://comancheclub.com/topic/36382-cruisers-renix-tips/ EDIT: Actually, I recommend doing ALL of the mods listed in that link.

That is a good lookin truck. :thumbsup:

Thats probably what he is referring to, the t-case switch i mean. Regaurdless if it is either the T-case switch or the CAD system, this will solve the problem. Jacob Ochs: Read. Learn. DO. http://comancheclub.com/topic/17377-cad-fix-1/

Blue Seas, you won't be disappointed I promise you that. http://www.bluesea.com/products/category/Fuse_Blocks/ST_Blade Cheaper: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BLUE-SEA-5026-FUSE-BLOCK-SCREW-TERM-BLADE-/251436901678?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item3a8acea52e&vxp=mtr

Nice, do you have any pucks in the front or is it all spring?

Pics or it didnt happen! :P

If you get lost/confused PM me and i will try to help you out. :thumbsup: http://comancheclub.com/topic/41722-higher-high-beams-wagoneers-only/

I guess there is a first time for everything. Sometime last night the gas can (full of gas) I have bungeed to my tire carrier was stolen. :fs1: I suppose I was asking for it to happen, because I have never chained/locked it in. I just had the bungee. I wouldn’t be nearly as PO'ed about it if they had used the gas and tossed the can in the bed or something, but they took the whole thing. Cans aint cheap. I checked with the apartment complex and they have no surveillance to speak of so I was SOL there. I looked in all the dumpsters on the premise to see if they disposed of it there with no luck, then I checked at all the Pawn shops in town and batted zero. The diabolical portion of my brain kicked in and I started thinking of laying a trap for when/if they come again. Buy a new can, fill it with WATER, and just bungee it in again. I would have to have a stake out and watch for them, then follow in a different car until they breakdown. It would be sweet. Or, a more convoluted plan. Plant a tracker, somehow, on the can. I kinda want to put one on my truck too, because I have a real bad habit of leaving the keys in the ignition/ash tray/front seat. I suppose I am just to trusting of the general public. :dunno:

This is a writeup that can be used with any MJ front clip, but should only be used on MJs that have gone through the Cherokee (XJ) Wagoneer front clip conversion. As some of you may already know, while rare, this is a pretty popular front clip swap for us and cherokee owners alike. This is my 1990 with the factory front clip. This is her after the swap. This is a 100% direct bolt on conversion for 87-92 MJs, the 1986 year model may look the same as all the rest, but it is NOT. While it is possible to put later front clips onto an 86, including the wagoneer, it is much more involved. I know this because i gave my original front clip to a friend of mine with an 86 (SpectorMJ). It was a royal PITA trying to figure out a way to make it work. Anyway. . . . The reason why I suggest to limit this to only Wagoneers is because of their separate High and Low beam lenses. Bottom are low beams, top are high. Because they are physically separated it prevents dangerous temperature levels inside the unit. Unlike on a traditional front clip where both filaments are enclosed in the same sealed unit and have the potential to generate damagingly high levels of heat. Shortining the life span of the light and in the very worst case senerio, start an electrical fire. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED. Onto the instrutional! You will need: 2 relays with matching relay buckets and pig tails Wire Wire crimpers/cutters Butt connectors Electrical tape Corrugated electrical tubing Heat shrink Lighter This is my relay bank on the drivers side fender. The two in the middle are responsible for the Headlights. The really nice thing about these relays is that they interlock and have mounting taps. So, the wiring. It took me several days to come up with a solution, but once I did it was acutally quite easy to implement. #1 Locate your Headlight connector and unplug it. #2 On the Engine/Body harness section of the connector, locate the solid GREEN and WHITE wires. #3 Trace them back a good distance. A good 10" away from the connector #4 Cut the WHITE wire. #5 Locate the wires on both relays that correspond to the 85 slot and splice them into the section of the WHITE wire that goes to the fire wall, NOT the section that goes to the connector. This is the "signal wire" that will trip the relay. I cannot tell you what color wire because nearly all relays are different. Something you need to be thinking of in the meantime is where you are going to draw your power from and where you are going to ground these two relays. Your "incoming power" (30) and "ground" (86) slots are located here. . . . The part about finding ground and power was easy for me because i have installed a marine grade auxillary fuse box which has both direct battery positive and negative terminals using 4 gauge audio wire. #6 Using one of the relays, find and splice in the "outgoing power" wire into the remaining cut portion of the white wire. If you have done right so far, this portion of the white wire will be going TO the headlight connector. #7 At this point you should have all wires ( 2 incoming power, 2 ground, 2 signal, and 1 outgoing) connected. All that should be left is one outgoing power wire. #8 Now you can splice this wire into the GREEN wire you located at the very beginning. Cut and crimp all three wire ends together. The remaining outgoing power, and the two cut ends of the green wire. In the picture above you can see my connection just above the text box. If you have done everything right, your high and low beams should now come on together when you pull the lever on the steering column to engage "high" beams. Your lows beams will still fuction normally as well. Best of luck, :thumbsup: Ftpiercecracker.

Two little black plugs are indeed for the washer fluid bottle pumps, Cherokees have two pumps, Comanches only one. Big Brown is for washer fluid bottle level sensor. Little plug in the background, on the brake distribution block, brake fluid level/pressure sensor.Thats what its called right?

Man it truly looks spectacular with that interior swap done. So modern, so refreshed looking. Very nice job.

(Its very hard to convey emotion online through text, so read the following with a positive and inquisitive tone. ) Not to distract from the point of this thread, but how is listing the transmission gear ratios and fluid capacities going to help the "average" jeep enthusiast, who in all likely hood has never even heard of an MJ, determine the best one to buy? Its your guide, so therefore you absolutely should right it as you see fit, i'm just afraid the people you are trying to reach will be off put by the sheer amount of information. To us (obsessed CC members) its nothing, but to the everyone else. . . . . Alright, thats enough from me. Just do what you think is best Minuit and i am sure everybody will appreciate all your time and effort. No matter what you decide i am looking forward to the finished product. :)