ftpiercecracker1

I do not have access to my truck right now or i would snap a picture. Before i put the flanges on i was trying to design some other kind of home brew coil spacers as i was to broke to afford the real deal and found myself in town at the local plumbing shop trying to source the parts i thought i was going to use. While walking around the tiny little shop i saw the flanges out of the corner of my eye and thought to myself, i wonder if these could work. When i got them home it was really freaky just how well the work. It is as if they were made for the job i kid you not. I should have some time to poke around my truck this coming week so i will try and take some pics then. As far as the CAD. If the cable system works i would leave it alone. If you want to be REALLY adventurous you could weld the front diff. With the welded diff and the CAD cable system you would have yourself a ghetto selectable locker. I actually intend on doing this myself one day, its the only reason why i am retaining the CAD system at all.

In all honesty, no. Its a lot more involved than just swapping out heads. Because the head intake ports are different from the Renix and HO years you have to also swap to a newer intake style (new gaskets are needed), which also means swapping to a different (but better) throttle body, which also means finding a way to adapt the old style TPS (throttle position sensor) to the new throttle body (not easy) From what i have read you might gain 10hp from doing all the mods and that is probably being optimistic. I have some friends who's Renix 4.0 is bone stock and when they drive mine they say there is no comparison as far as power/torque/seat-of-the-pants feel. This is what i have done to my 4.0; Ford (bigger) multi port injectors, 7120 head, 2001 intake aka octopus, and bored 62mm TB) Yes, lifting your truck can get very expensive, although there is a writeup on here somewhere that shows you how to piece together a good quality 5.5in lift for just under $750-800. In my opinion, all you need to do is get some 2in coil spacers (I use HD PVC flanges), some shackles for the rear (google orielly's drop shackles) and a good set of aggressive mud tires. PVC flanges + shackles = 2in lift = $50ish HUGE thing you need to know about, if you don't already know, go ahead and lock you CAD in place. It will save you a lot of head ache down the road. http://comancheclub.com/topic/17377-cad-fix-1/

True, but OP should also be checking to make sure the port in the back of the head for the temp sender is present and tapped.

Believe it or not, not all 4.0s are created equal. What i mean by this is that some 4.0s are incompatible with the rest of the jeep family. After about 3sec of searching on ye ole google this is some of the info i am refering to. XJ Cherokee and ZJ Grand Cherokee 4.0L engine blocks interchange. 2000+ TJ Wrangler and WJ Grand Cherokee 4.0L engine blocks interchange. XJ/ZJ blocks and 2000+ TJ/WJ blocks do not interchange without significant modifications. (1991 to 1995 YJ and 1997-1999 4.0L TJ Wrangler blocks will interchange in XJ/ZJ and visa-versa). TJ/WJ 4.0L Engine blocks underwent clean sheet design changes effective in the 1999 WJ Grand and 2000 TJ Wrangler. These blocks are not interchangeable with XJ/ZJ engine blocks. The reason is motor mount bolt holes and belt driven accessory mounting bolt holes are in different locations, or not present at all, TJ/WJ vs. XJ/ZJ. 　 XJ: "Regular" (not Grand) Cherokees 84-01 ZJ: Grand Cherokee 93-98 (Gen1) WJ: Grand Cherokee 99-04 (Gen2) YJ: Wrangler 87-95 (Gen1) TJ: Wrangler 97-06 (Gen2)

Out in my neck of the woods people lose/drop dogs off all the time. Most of the time they just pass on through, but this guy decided he liked our place so much he stuck around. Several of our family members have had rotties in the past and all of them were known to be aggressive, so we were really apprehensive about keeping him. We put up flyers, called people, put an ad in the paper, even had him scanned for a microchip twice. We had those ads up for months and never had a single call. He has been excellent with all of our other animals, dogs, cats, chickens and horses. He is exceptionally affectionate and, get this, when he came to us we found he was already trained to heel, sit, stay, and lie down. There is not a single time that i have taken him to town where he has not received some kind of compliment, on his looks or obidience. He came at a really good time as it were because we had lost one of our two dogs not that long ago and then about a month after he showed up we lost the other one. The first one, an aussie mix pound rescue, we had had since i was about 12 and the other was a pup of her's, so to lose both of them so close together was pretty difficult to deal with. Bo aka Bo-bo aka bobulywobbly is a 2yo, uncut male Rottweiler, approx 110lbs Funny note: I can feel the truck jerk back and forth as he jumps from one bed side to the other when i take him into town. I can even feel him panting while the truck is stopped or idling.

Hornbrod, could you elaborate a little further on why the diode is needed? I know diode are like dams for electricity, allowing current to flow in one direction, but not the other. Why would it matter if the outgoing side of a relay became energized?

What is there to critique? That truck is gawgus. :bowdown: BTW, are you glad you went with a stroker? Built or Bought?

Not recently, but I have indexed the distributor at one time or another, but that is not to say it couldnt stand to be checked and redone again just to be sure. The next time i am out there i will look into it.

Well, TBH I still havent had the chance to take the truck on more than a 5 min drive, but the few times i have gotten to drive it hasnt had any problems to speak of, spitting/sputtering/backfiring or otherwise. One thing i have been wondering about is, why did the dizzy contacts get so corroded in such a short period of time? The coil, plugs, wires, cap and button are all newer and of higher quality than just bottom dollar, whats-the-cheapest-you-got parts. On a side note, i have found a new love for totally WOT acceleration. I don't know if its because of my setup or what, but MAN and it sound freaking awesome when i mat in second gear. Really deep throaty sound as the engine gains rpm. :drool:

You do not need that fabric/cloth hose and it will in no significant way effect the performance of the engine. However, if you O2 is busted/broken off you need to fix that ASAP. The only reason you might consider keeping that cloth sleeve would be if you live in a northern climate where the pre-warmed intake air coming off of the header would expedite the engine's warm up. Other than that, there is nothing to be gained from keeping it and removing it will only help tidy up the engine bay. Either way it really doesnt matter a whole lot.

You get what you pay for, plain and simple. That being said if you stick with the big three (Miller, Hobart, Lincoln) you can't go wrong. What ever make/model you choose make sure you get one that can utilize shielding gas. The 'Hobart handler' is an excellent starter setup, just to give you an idea. Oh and be prepared to shell out some doe, good welders cost a good bit. ($450-$800)

FWIW, R-12 is a more efficient refrigerant than R-134a. This is because R-12 requires less pressure to achieve the same cooling as R-134a, but like you know already R-12 is un-obtainium, so in the long run R-134a is the wiser choice. As for your question about the drier and expansion valve, R-12 or R-134a i don't think it matters so long as you get parts that are close to your relative year. It is very important that you add the correct TYPE and AMOUNT of compressor oil or you can really fudge things up. You might want to consider throwing a little bit of a/c dye as well for future leaks, should they occur. Also you said you have already pulled vacuum, but how long did you let it sit with the pump off before you checked? In conjunction with the compressed air, there is such a thing as "a/c flush" and could be beneficial to you. How old is your evaporator and/or condenser? It is good insurance to at least replace the condenser, especially if it is the factory unit. If you use a flush i think you will be okay, but if you want to be sure, replace. Hope everything works out, theres nothing sweeter than an MJ with working a/c. B) FPC.

Slightly off topic, but $130 a piece for tire as aggressive as that? That seems like a pretty stinkin good deal.

What the heel am i looking at? :hmm:

<<<<<Turbo Encabulator!!!>>> :rotf: Although there is still a small part of me that thinks they are being serious. :hmm:

Yes, but do they have the same gauges? If you have full gauge set and put the PCB from a cluster with idiot lights it won't work, the copper traces won't be present. It might the other way around, but i don't know for sure.

DId you check the ground by the dip stick to make sure its clean and tight? Ages ago i had a similar problem (backfired so bad it blew the muffler completely apart, ya) long story short that ground was completely lose and covered in oil and grime. Once cleaned and tightened all of my problems ceased.

Wow, so glad you brought back this piece of ancient history. Such an incredible conversion, looks like it rolled off the line like that. One question though, if you swapped just the 97+ doors would the old to new body lines still match up or would it be obvious that the new doors came off something else? I have the waggy front clip on mine and have always wanted to swap in some 97+ power doors, but i don't know how it would match up to the older fenders. Could I change out both doors and fenders without it looking weird? Gotta love that one piece window goodness. :drool: FPC.

Feels like its been years since my last post. Sadly thats because there hasn't been much to report, but i have saved up a few updates so hopefully this won't be totally boring. So far since my last post i have bought a nice lo-pro tool box, added a ZJ steering box (quicker ratio), put on some oreilly's drop shackles to aid my sagging leaf springs, had a new windshield installed to replace the junky/pitted/cracked factory one, done some hardcore electrical consolidation and shortened my steering column by about 2in. ONTO THE PICS!! BetterBuilt low profile tool box i found on good ole craigslist. Picked it up for 85 smackers. Had to order some keys for it and buy a new gas shock, but other than that it is exactly what i wanted. Think its and older made in U.S.A version too. No pics of the ZJ box, but i will say that if you are considering the swap, go for it. TBH i haven't really noticed a huge difference between boxes, but then again its been a while since i last drove an MJ with the stock box. Its a 100% direct swap, any year ZJ will work, don't know about differences between V8 and I6, i just stuck with one from an I6. Oreilly's drop shackles, aka, very poor mans lift. New windshield. *Pro tip, when you have your windshield replaced make sure you turn the little spacer blocks on their side so they look like a rectangle on their respective 'side' and not on the 'bottom' otherwise the lower trim will not snap back on as nicely, it still will, as i have found out, but it works better oriented the other way. Extreme wire consolidation included tracing and depinning things like the door chimes/buzzer, seat belt buzzer, shortening the ridiculously long radio adapter harness, and removing the entire plug on the left side of the gauge cluster. This plug to be precise. With fingers crossed i was thankful to find that everything left still worked without a problem. :thumbsup: After driving one of our Tercels (toyota) around for nearly a month and enjoying all that leg room getting back into the MJ was torturous. I had to do something, i was sick of the steering wheel being way up in my face and the seat was killing me too, but thats another story. Shortening the steering column was not nearly as hard as i predicted. You just have to be very methodical and mark both shafts before you cut so you can reattach them right. Take your time and its no harder than building a bumper. Picture for comparison. Ironically this is very similar to how i want my seats and E brake to look. Please ignore the nonexistent dash and exposed wires. Another view

:laughin: gotcha, that thought never even crossed my mind. When i read OP's post i was like " WTH? You (op) figure out the problem, only to come back and thank two people who didnt even post?! "

Yes you can swap them to your hearts content. Its a simple matter of removing all the bulbs and screws, just make sure you remember where they all went. FYI, Renix and HO PCBs (printed circuit boards) are NOT compatible. The next time you are in a JY and find a Renix jeep with full gauges, pull the PCB as they are getting harder and harder to find and the JY is the only place where they can be found.

Did those guys PM you or something? I feel so unloved, does mine and Mattwheels input not count for something? :cry: (jk, not srs) (somewhat srs)

Behind the drivers side t . . . . ^ freakin wizard ^ EDIT: Yes, there is a ground behind the drivers side tail light housing. Pull housing out, clean point of contact to bare metal and see if that solves the problem. The sockets themselves can also be a problem from time to time, as well as the brake light switch itself.