ftpiercecracker1

http://shop.blairequipment.com/Blair-Spotweld-Cutter-p/13224.htm Best d**n spot weld cutter there is, Period. End. Of. Story. Totally and utterly kicks HB cutters butt. I used these to remove the rocker panel on my MJ, with fantastic results. I have tried HB's version and all the teeth broke off as soon as they contacted the metal, completely useless junk. However, even with Blair's version you have to be careful, the teeth are EXTREMELY hard and therefore brittle. Moderate speed with very VERY little pressure is key to longevity. Even with only two teeth remaining on a head i could still drill out one or two more welds. I HIGHLY recommend these. I am usually never this opinionated, but these little things really impressed me.

I bought my ball joints from XRF and have put about 5k on them without any issues. They seemed like quality parts and fit well, however i cannot say much about their warranty as i don't remember if they even came with one. . . :hmm: Either way they came with great reviews and were less expensive than spicer. Some people even preferred XRF over Spicer/Moog. Just my 2c. FYI, I researched the crap out of this before i decided on XRF, i am not the type to throw words around carelessly.

Money, money, and oh let me think. . . . MONEY :fs1: I have a job, but don't make squat, even at 30hrs a week. Life is a b***h, you have to have money to make money.

Anybody else notice how the drag link is on the under side of the knuckle? :hmm: Look to the far left of the pic If it works, it works i guess. :dunno:

First ad on CL was this. http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/4457945835.html That Jeep with a good running engine would be easily worth a couple grand. The high mileage is the only down side that would really detract from its resale value, but other than that it looks d**n near perfect. If i had the money i would be very tempted to try and fix it up and sell it. KBB puts it at $3500 in "very good" condition even with the high miles. buy for $700, even if you paid a 1k for a new engine (which i probably wouldnt) and sold it for 3300 = $1600 profit. I have thought about doing stuff like this many times before, the only thing keeping me from trying is simple lack of capital. :( Its a shame cause that is a really nice, clean Jeep.

EDIT: Darn you Eagle! The terms 'low' and 'high' pinion, as i understand them, refer to the position of the incoming pinion and don't really have anything to do with the physical gears themselves. IF you also swapped the front axle out of that 2000 XJ you now have a low pinion Dana 30. 00 and 01 XJ are the only ones to come with a low pinion AFAIK. High pinion axles are preferred for their ground clearance. ALL 4wd MJs produced came with high pinion Dana 30s Your rear axle is a low pinion, both Dana 44s and the more common Dana 35s are both low pinion axles. As far as choosing a gearing ratio, one very critical detail that you didnt provide is what type of transmission you have. IF you have an auto (the AW4) i would go with the deepest ratio you feel comfortable running. 4:56 sounds about right. The deeper the ratio the easier it will be on your trans to turn those larger tires of yours. IF you are running a stick/manual/AX-15 you could get away with a little less. Personally i think 4.30s would be a good ratio no matter which trans you have. For your viewing pleasure. . .

Ooh Laawd those are some gnarly tires. :drool: Maybe someday i can save up enough dinero to by me a set too, someday. . . . .

I have a longbed so the driveshaft was long enough! These are 28 inch tires I plan to upgrade to 33! Looks like you need to pick the front end up a good 2" or so, that is unless you like the the forward rake look.

I have no intention of going as deep as that fellow did, floating down the river in the MJ is something i want to avoid. My problem is that water literally starts pouring in as soon as it reaches the rockers. And since my floor boards are new and sealed tight it will sit in there until i scoop/sponge it out. 97+ door seals are on my list, i actually went and bought a pair out of a ZJ (supposedly better as well) but never got around to putting them on. Its a hell of a lot of work to swap those suckers out! Without my front skid, just running through a few deep puddles makes my alternator go crazy. Volts drop off into the red, lights dim, all kinds of crap. It eventually returns to normal, but its just annoying as crap. I already have dual 97+ E fans, w/ a cutout switch wired in, so i am set as far as that goes. Definitely a critical modification for doing any kind of water crossings. Thanks for the tips, FPC

Lets see an overall shot! And what did you do about drive shaft lengths?

LMFAO! :rotf:

XJs? I thought ZJs were the only ones with the beef? Ah.. You're thinking sway bar envy. XJs had the big one all along. So, Laredo XJs w/ towing package are the only ones to consistently come with the 28mm? No ZJs at all? and if i envy anything, its that dang ole WJ sway bar, 35mm!? :eek:

XJs? I thought ZJs were the only ones with the beef?

Question: #1 A while back i decided to upgrade to a ZJ sway bar. Recently i had to replace the bushings and discovered that there are a lot more than just one size. I used a caliper to measure the one that i had, expecting it to be a 28mm, much to my surprise it was not. It was just shy of 26mm (25.8mm) sooo i ended up getting two sets of bushings 1" and 26mm to see which one would work best. 26mm where a perfect fit. Out of curiosity i went to the junkyard and looked to see if i could find an actual 28mm, out of the 25 ZJs i checked (with a caliper) not a single one had a 28mm. Several were V8s, tons were 4wd, and some were higher trim packages, but NONE had a 28mm sway bar. Is it my misunderstanding or is there actually a 28mm sway bar and i just havent found it yet? Question: #2 The u-joints in the shaft that connects the steering wheel to the box (i call it a steering shaft) are utterly shot. I am not about to fork over the 150 bucks they want for a new one so i am going to snag a "gently" used one out of the JY tomorrow. Is there a better/updated version that i should look for? I know the steering shaft on certain year XJs actually telescopes, which would be awesome, but i don't know if it is compatible. Question: #3 I like to play in creeks a lot but i am getting sick and tired of the 2-3in of water that accumulates in the floorboards every time. How, if even possible, can i water proof the cab to minimize water entry? Without, permanently sealing the doors shut mind you. Case in point, V this guy V How in the heck can he do this without being in water up to his waist? FPC, out.

At least he didnt chop up something rare. Silver lining? :dunno: and ya that dude must have a hole in his head to be askin 3k for that.

I know its to late now, but next time you are doing a head swap look a little closer. There are 7120 cast heads with the port still in place, i know because i have one, although i can't remember what year jeep mine came off of.

I for one am not paying $260 per u joint. The cost of one of them bought my Dana 60, and the cost for a second one put that Dana 60 under my truck with money left to spare. $260 **** me! :eek: I guess i should do my research a little more thoroughly next time, still though you can't deny the BEEF.

FWIW, entirely on a whim, i snagged two sets of orange top injectors out of a ford truck. 4.9 straight six, don't remember the year. I got 2 sets just in case some of them leaked. There were the 4 hole, don't know the # of lbs, but i figured it had to be a little more to handle the extra cubes. I cleaned them by taking a CLEAN glass jar, filled it with injector cleaner (think lucas product or something similar), dropped the injectors in totall submerged, shook the jar and let it sit for 24 hrs. I have at least 10,000 miles on these injectors without the slightest of issues. Throttle response improved dramatically, as did general seat-of-the-pants performance. If you go with junkyard injectors, make sure you buy several extras if not an entire extra set. FPC.

All is garbage when compared to CTM u-joints. :bowdown:

Jesus christ you guys are some judgemental a**holes :roll: . I like to piss off ricers as much as the next guy, but come on, i think a dude with some angry eyes on his jeep is a little low on the totem pole of "hate-able" jeep mods. Things like low profile tires or 22in rims, now thats grounds for some serious hate. P.S. I kinda like angry eyes.

Vehicles used in: 2000 toyota tundra 280k on the clock 1986/1985 4wd toyota tercel wagon(s) 230k on clocks, roughly 1990 MJ 4.0 192k on the clock I have only applied seafoam in two ways, either poured into the gas tank or directly through the brake booster vacuum line w/ the engine running. ALL of our vehicles are used hard and maintainance is sometimes, shall we say, negelected, to put it politely. I have had excellent results every time i have used seafoam, but i relate this to the fact that our vehicles are quite old and often times neglected. Throttle response, start time, idle, and mpg are a couple of improvements i have seen after using seafoam. I do only recommend using it in older and/or very high mileage engines though. My 2c. FPC, out

I don't know what else is on the blower circuit but i think a good place to start would be to disconnect your blower motor and try changing to a/c or defrost again and see what happens. If it still blows you've got problems else where, if not. . . . . . . we'll cross that bridge when we get to it. FPC.

What does it do when you try to crank it? No click no nothin? Sounds to me like a loose battery clamp.

IF you can drill a hole the the lip of the seal that may do the trick, otherwise don't waste your time. It's a major PITA but it is worth it in the long run to just remove the cover all together. If not you could end up damaging the opening and/or the deal surface . . . . . . . like I did. Thank God I had a spare.

What connecting rods are you using? Keith black and Bulltear are the only manufacturers that i know of that offer a piston that will work with 4.0 arms. If you have 4.2 arms, they could be just stock oversized 4.0 pistions. Look at the connecting rods, if your lucky '707' will be stamped into the metal. FYI 707 is the more desirable casting. but then again i know of a couple people who have used Ross pistons as well.