ftpiercecracker1

Tons, there was a thread on here not to long ago where somebody used these exact rockers. Said they werent even close to fitting, took hours of cutting, bending and rewelding to get them to fit right.

My truck will still run and drive with the tps disconnected, ya its lousy, but it does not prevent the truck from starting entirely. Just got done testing the coil following my Haynes instructions and according to them everything is honkey dorey. I also checked to see if there is spark going to the distributor. Stuck a bolt into the plug wire end and held it close to the terminal while some else turned it over. The IS spark, but it looks very weak, then again this was in broad daylight. Just FYI, the truck is really really trying to start, but it still just can't quite hit the mark. I will be popping the dizzy cap off here shortly, might just be a shot cap. So your saying your TPS has caused a no start situation?

hmm, i have done some checking on the internets and everything i have read says a TPS is not capapble of causing a no start situation.

atta boy. :cheers:

Fuel pump is fine, its got to be something ignition related, seeing as it won't start at all now. Not trying to be a d**k, but fuel pressure is the same as it has always been, even now with it not starting. . . . at all.

Looks like somebody uses Power Pro. :D

Sounds like you have answered your own question. :thumbsup: Engine/transmission/tcase, thats alot of weight to be shifting around, even if its only a little.

WARNING: Those are not OE rockers and will not fit right, without extreme cutting/hacking of rocker.

Havent checked TPS, but i think its kinda of irrelevant now. I took the truck for one more drive before it got totally black outside. Took dad with, so he could here/feel what it is doing as well. Truck drove fine for about 1 mile, then stuttered a little but worked itself out. Then in another 1/2 mile, it did it again, this time worse, but again it cleared up. Railed on it for a few hundred feet and it ran perfectly. THEN, as we pulled into the driveway it REALLY started to spit and sputter and eventually stalled completely. The big difference, is now it won't start at all. It definately tries to, but it just won't catch. Now the decision is whether its the coil, module, or the sync sensor in the dizzy.

First time hearing this. Where did you hear about it, any more details?

Junkyard is going to be your best bet, or you could make your own. Think i saw a post on just that not to long ago. :hmm: The Cherokee i pulled mine off of literally did not have a speck of dirt on it, i would have eaten off of the frame it was so clean.

Second update: Truck will idle till the cows come home. I just got done letting the truck sit and idle for about 30min and it showed no signs of what has been going on, but as soon as i went to drive down the drive way it immediately started its crap and stalled. Another thing i have noticed, is that even though it does start immediately after it stalls it takes a noticeable bit longer, and stumbles several times before it catches.

Not so fast skip, believe me i wish it was. I drove the truck again today, for the first 2-3 miles it was perfect then all at once came the severe spitting sputtering. No backfiring or bucking jerking, but just having a very hard time staying running. BUT here's the kicker, truck stalled, i immediately restarted the truck and boom everything is perfect again for about another mile or two, then same deal, just like clock work. It does this very predictably, every mile and a half or so. On a side note, my driver side caliper has become seized. :doh: Plugs are new champions, gapped properly. Wires are new 8mm ACdelco.

Just FYI, I got mine from a cherokee in a JY just a few days ago, worked perfect, took a while to find a set that would not crumble in my hands. This is the only place i have ever found them, new. http://c2cfabrication.com/store/index.php?cPath=1_21_38&sort=4a&page=2&osCsid=1njsm1876n6hij9sovcei0pl53 Although, i have never checked RockAuto.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/38112-dual-2-stage-electric-fans-ftpiercecrackers-easy-way/ T-stat threads are 3/8 NPT, the temp switch from RodneyDickmans is simply talored made for us. I am still working on finding a suitable switch for the lower/stock electric fan switch. This is the one i probably will be going with, https://www.carquest.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_CARQUEST+Heater+%26+A%2FC+Switches+By+Wells__10151_-1_10651_457854?acesApp=1 Specs: http://ecc.carquest.com/ds_fans.php?switch=53-13713&submit=Submit Yes i know its as expensive as **** but its the only one with a low enough temp to work. I will explain if interested.

No, seriously, i did have to look good and hard at it. I am always afraid of putting something on backwards. :laughin: So, i tested the fuel psi this morining. Key on, 38psi holds steady doesnt bleed off. Running, holds 32psi and spikes to 35/36psi when you rev it. So fuel pressure is spot on. What catalytic converter? :D I have been running open headers for about 3 weeks now, its not a DD so i don't have to worry about hanging an exhuast yet. P.S. Also tested the TPS, probing the 'B' terminal, with black lead of Multimeter on negative battery terminal, i get .70 ohms of resistance. Same deal with the MAP sensor. When i started it this morning i let it sit for a moment or two and then rev-ed it up to 4500rpm, not the faintest hesitation.

Stock MJ coolant fan switch Makes contact: 200* F Breaks contact: 174* F I tested this 3 times in a pot of water brought slowly up in heat, using a digitail cooking thermometer to mointor temperature. This does NOT represent what your gauge reads.

I looked good and hard at it before i put it on, arrow is pointing Towards the engine, and the two nipples are labled IN and OUT. I would only assume IN would be fuel coming from the tank and OUT would be fuel going to the engine. This is how it is installed. Its identical to my old filter, WIXs brand. :dunno:

I ment to put this up a few days ago, but got distracted. Its kind of a good thing any way because i have more to tell now. A few days ago while driving through a major intersection in Murfreesboro, i happened to spot an MJ in the lane next to me a few cars up, Hotrod Red suuuper clean, small lift, probably ruuning 30 ATs, no extras to speak of or badges. I was driving and my mom was in the P seat when i pulled up beside him waiting for light. I remembered i had a couple CC cards in my wallet and told my mom to roll down her window and try to get the guys attention. You would have thought he was blind will all the waving and flapping we were doing trying to get his attention, finally he saw us and rolled down his window. Mom gave him the card and i gave the short and sweet about our club, but before i could get a full sentence in the light changed. Either way i was successful in my duty to the community. And then today in my home town i pulled into the parking lot of McD's and spied a Silver comanche. Looked just like this but silver with black decals. Still had the factory fogs too. I parked next to the truck and waited for a min and a middle aged couple came out and went to get in, i stopped the man (driver) and asked if it was his. He proudly said it was and i told him i was a big fan and how i had one at home myself. Thinking he was introducing me to his wife/girlfriend he said , "well her name is christine" i bent down and said hello to the lady sitting in the P seat, only for him to say, " Oh no, no, the truck's name is christine" :D . He never did tell me what the womans name was. Anyway, it turned out he had bought it from his brother-in-law with 60k original miles, back when he graduated HS, probably 20 years ago. The truck was a 2.8, auto, 4x4, bench seat, roll bar, long bed. Overall the truck was in ok shape, but who am i to judge. They had somehow managed to keep a 2.8 running all these years. I gave him a card as well, and hes was very happy to know such a club existed and assured me that he would try to check it out, but he lives back in the sticks where they don't have a wifi signal so the only time they can go on the internet is when he comes to the McD's. Spread the word! :banana: Ftpiercecracker

check grounds? and when you say they come on only with brake lights, i assume that means when you press the pedal both your brake lights and indicators are illuminated together?

Jeep has been running excellent, that is up until tonight. Now the truck won't go over 2000rpm while driving or rev past 3500rpm, it completely and utterly dies as soon as you give it any more than a quarter throttle and as the rpms approach 2000 its spits and sputters severly. ALL grounds have been thoroughly cleaned, reinforced, and/or re-ran. TPS has been tested recently and is well within tolerable OHMs. Faulty wire loom crimp has been redone. CPS is brand new, replaced about a 2 weeks ago, so i doubt very seriously this is the problem. I am suspicious of the fuel pump and will be re-testing all the pre mentioned trouble spots. I have a fuel pressure tester as well so will check the rail for pressure. Is it supposed to mantain 35-40psi at all times? FYI, truck still starts and idles perfectly This literally started tonight, just yesterday i drove it and ran it pretty hard without the slightest issue. ALL on-road driving. Details: 1989, 4.0, 5spd, NON C101 Before i drove it tonight, i did put a new fuel filter on. can't imagine how i could have screwed that up. Thanks ftpiercecracker

LOTS of pictures. I am curious to know how you will be powering/wiring all those lumens?

Guess i'll throw up mine. . Right off the truck after half a year of offroading and abuse. Thoroughly cleaned, polished, and taped. I used a toothbrush and tooth pic to clean out the grooves. :D Painted with left over bedliner spray, looks Awesome, textured. But scrapes off with your fingernail. :doh: Just have to remember to remove when i go to wash the truck. No pics on truck, yet. . .

What on earth would loose trans bolts cause?? :hmm:

Ya thats super nice, but not 10k, espcially with almost 200k on the clock. I would be perfectly comfortable giving 4500-5K for it, but thats assuming it is in perfect running/driving condition.