ftpiercecracker1

The switch doesn't ground to the radiator. It has two wires. Cracker, got an IR laser type thermometer? I wish. :(

Hell now that you have a 4.2 you can build a 4.5-6 stroker. :rock on:

What did you get your brake lines off of? Something i learned on this is that my MJ had much larger brake lines than any of the other jeeps i found at the JY, even though the fitting would still tighten down it did nothing to clamp the flare to the DB. I had to find fittings that matched my brake line dia. I will try to take a picture to show you what i am talking about.

Its what i ment jim, its what i ment. ;)

I think another inch lower and some low profile tires would really give it the look you are going for. My 2c, :D Maybe something like these? :dunno: I honestly have no idea where you want to go with your truck, just throwing out ideas. . . :cheers:

THIS!! My 90 nearly got me killed on several occasions because of a bad ground. For me it was very intermittent, but when it had its little fits it would buck, kick, snort, backfire (literally blew apart my muffler) and just about every other god awful thing. Turned out to be the ground at the bottom of the dipstick, nut was three turns from falling completely off and was covered in oil and grime. After thoroughly cleaning said stud and connectors and retighting ALL symptoms went away and never have returned. This was after spending nearly a grand on other sensors and shop labor. :wall: Long story short CHECK YOUR GROUNDS!

Sure didnt. And early some people were questioning if coolant was even reaching the sensor, i would figure it would have to be seeing that when i took it out half my coolant poured out.

6 degrees over a full boil at sea level I have the old sensor from the donor vehicle, its located in the T-stat housing. Has anyone adapted the Renix to work off this sensor? The "sensor" in the radiator is not a sensor...it's a switch. The sensor to the ECU is in the block. The sender to the gauge is a sender.The sensor in the t-stat on later models is a sensor. There was rumored to be a switch from a GM (Corvette IIRC) that could be used in the Renix 4.0 with a 91+ t-stat housing. But the normal 91 type Jeep sensor won't work for the switch . This is why I put my fan on a manual switch when I swapped radiators. Boiling is still 212F at sea level. Which is not 218F I'd have to agree with Cruiser, that it's just possible that there may be a lack of circulation at the switch in the rad...or scale...or devils with little pitchforks screwing things up!! You wouldnt happen to know any more about that Corvette temp switch? I appreciate the info on the difference between a sensor and a switch. That has always got me confused. Do any of you know the thread size for the T-stat located jeep temp sensor? 3/8 NPT is what i have heard a lot of people saying and is there any way to distinguish between a sensor and a switch besides the boiling water test? P.S. the way to test a temp sensor is still the boiling water test, just turn up the ohms dial to 20K and you will get a reading, if the sensor is good. When dunked in hot water the ohms will rapidly decend.

Something that would really help is a picture so i can see your exact setup, i have an idea of whats going on but a picture would help trumendously. What exactly did you reuse and what did you get from the JY?

Wish you luck! :-)

A jumper bypasses the wiring from the switch to the fan. Checking it with the A/C switch proves the wiring is good in that circuit. Pretty much narrows it to the sensor or the relay. Infared thermometers are cheap at HF (29.99 last I checked). Ok, and if it doesnt come on with the a/c? Keep in mind i have also tested the sensor with it in place, multimeter testing for ohms, they never changed from infinite even with the dash gauge reading 250*, contacts never made connection.

Yes the electric fan works with the a/c, but that is kind of irrelevant seeing that the fan works perfectly when a jumper wire is used to connect the two wires that are normally plugged into the sensor pig tail. I agree that a infared thermometer would help determine exactly what temp the rad is at. And i also agree that the sensor probably is FUBAR. I have a feeling that even though the sensor worked in the pot of boiling water it probably is not reading the coolant temp right. And i also had a brilliant idea for those that want to do dual eletric fans, but don't want a hard wired switch. Using the newer model T-stat housing with the sensor in it, you could cut the coniciding plug out of a JY vehicle and splice that into a secondary relay system to run your "first stage" E fan. Then when the temp of the coolant coming out of the engine reaches a certain point the first fan would kick on and the second fan would kick on when the coolant entering the engine reaches a certain temp. I will be doing this BTW.

Here is one. http://comancheclub.com/topic/20114-rocker-replacement-thread-cab-corner-too/

fan is 100% fully fuctional. Question: Do all temp sensors used for electric fans work off the same priciples? Sensor is submerged in hot coolant, when temp gets hot enough sensor makes contact and allows current to flow. If so all I need to do is find a sensor that will fit in either the rad/t-stat and then make/buy a compatiable plug.

No, and sheet metal. :thumbsup: The best you can do is to find a JY comanche with its cab corners intact and cut them out, other wise you will have to fab your own, or let it ride. I will try and put up some pictures of my repair job and another a little later.

I found this little gem while scrolling through a buddy of mine's website, figured it was to good not to share. :D Little known historical facts about the Jeep 4.0Posted: 20th September 2012 by bleepinjeep in Engine Tags: 4.0, engine, granite, I-6, inline, jeep, motor, six, straight 6, tj, torque, xj, yj, zeus 0 The original Jeep 4.0L inline-six was hewn from a solid block of granite by lightning bolts. Its cylinders were bored by the Imperial Winds and its rotating assembly was balanced by the Scales of Justice. The Ancient Egyptians used Jeep 4.0L engines to move the blocks which built the Pyramids, only switching to slave labor when it was found to be cheaper than the olive oil used to fuel the engines. Scientists have ranked the Jeep 4.0L engine as one of the strongest forces of nature, racking right up there with tectonic plate shifts for its low-end torque, and being surpassed by hurricanes only for its comparatively low redline. Mechanics have found imprints of fossilized dinosaur bones in block castings, and serial numbers in Roman numerals are a common sight. The design of the 4.0L’s fuel injection system has been traced to the archives of Leonardo DaVinci, and early manuscripts of Shakespeare plays have been used as head gaskets for this engine (which, incidentally, explains the gaps in Shakespeare’s collected works as well as the 4.0L’s tendancy to leak oil). The engine’s ancient roots also explain its ability to run on some very non-conventional fuels (original translations of the Rosetta Stone include evidence of Jeep 4.0L engines running on ox blood) as well as lubrications (during the Middle Ages, Jeep 4.0L crankcases were often filled with barley, with no detrimental effect on power output). Historians maintain that the fall of the Roman Empire hinged on their inability to design a superior engine, and had the Titanic been powered by a 4.0L Jeep engine, 1912 might have been a much happier year. Yes, had early-20th-century naval engineers had a touch more foresight, the Jeep 4.0L may have saved mankind from ever having to endure Leonardo DiCaprio and Celene Dion in the same sitting. The only weakness in this otherwise unstoppable force of nature? Emissions. Yes, the engine’s design may have come from the hand of Zeus, and its exhaust note at full throttle may have reverberated along the rock formations of Arizona to forge the Grand Canyon, but by the year 2007 its crude emissions control (originally consisting of papyrus strips soaked in the tears of the young Tutankhaman) had become outmoded, and the legendary, nay Biblical force of the Jeep 4.0L was put to rest.

Ya, but do you have a way to adapt the Renix sensor to that location? If i knew of a way to do that I would have done it a while ago.

Then somthin aint right, cause i know the rad is over either one of those and the fan does not turn on. But what is strange is that the sensor worked in the pot. :hmm: I have the old sensor from the donor vehicle, its located in the T-stat housing. Has anyone adapted the Renix to work off this sensor?

Yes the OEM t-stat is a 195* and I know it and my gauge are working right on the money, because it warms up pretty quick but when it hits 200ish degrees the temp hits a brick wall and takes a good 20min for it to heat up the rest of the way. I know what the guage reads isnt acurrate to what is at the sensor, because the gauge input is coming from the very back of the head which is the very hottest part of the engine, but still i would think if the gauge says 245* then the rad would have to be over 220* If i can just get the stupid fan to work this thing would be good to go.

Looks awesome! Love the door by the way, really gives the room some character. :thumbsup:

Pics?

I probably just need to replace the sensor, but i just wanted some reasurance. My electric fan is not wanting to turn on. I have let the truck warm up on two separate occasions, letting the needle just pass the last line before the orange/red zone and still no fan activity. I have tested the sensor, the one in the rad, in a pot of boiling water and it would appear to be working. Water starts to get a little bubbly and resistance drops to zero. I have also tested the circuitry, using a jumper wire i have connected the two wires that are in the sensor plug and the fan immediately kicks on and you can hear the relay click. Fan is new for all intents and purposes. T-stat is brand new, just put in a few hrs ago. Proper coolant level and bleeding have both been done. Lower radiator hose is getting very hot, so sensor is getting access to coolant flow. Since everything is working and fan still doesnt turn on my only conclusion is that the sensor is indeed bad, even though it would seem not to be. ftpiercecracker.

Did exactly that, wasnt right so :dunno: On my second attempt i matched colors then it was right. Either way, blinkers work and i have found a solution to the HL issue that i think will benefit everyone. And i will be starting a new topic on my electric fan problem.

Just from the pic it looks like you've got one clean MJ, care to show? :brows:

That sucks Lee21490, :shake: . What i think is really F'ed up is the need to buy "uninsured motorist" insurance. So basically i have to pay extra, just in case the person that hits me does not have insurance. :nuts: