ftpiercecracker1

I have always always been told it was a 15 gallon. Since my fuel gauge is FUBAR and i have to rely on my odometer, how many gallons should i multiply 15mpg by? I figure 15 is about the average fuel economy for both on road and offroad driving combined. 15 x 18 would be 270miles

Why not take a comanche cab, cut it down the center of the door. Then take a 4 door cherokee and do the same to it, but down the back door. Then take the MJ bed and rear section of cab and weld it to whats left of the front section of the XJ Image Not Found Check out this page from Jeepforum. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f53/2000-comanche-crew-cab-4-doors-coming-soon-1327006/index8.html

Hmm, could have fooled me. :thumbsup:

Almost sounds like your Mech fan might be hitting the shroud. Something that you can try, remove the serpentine belt and start the truck. If the noise goes away you know its not internal. While you have the belt off i would manual rotate all pulleys to see if you can reproduce the sound. I would also pull the shroud and see if that makes a difference.

Ya, so long as your running 4.88s. ;) Check out the DIY section for a lift kit, 5.5in high quality, under 700 bones.

Yup, finished buttoning up a brake line issue and took the truck for a ride in town to fill the tank. Ran B.E.Autiful FYI when they say its a 15 gallon tank, thats not exactly true. Before i drove the truck to town i put 5 gallons in it, yet at the pump it took slightly over 15 gallons, meaning its actually a 20 gallon tank with 15 or 16 actual useable gallons. The rest of the fuel is below the pump pickup, this is what led to my down fall.

The amount of firepower on that single ship is simply staggering. :bowdown:

Well i've really done it this time. :oops: After installing the new cps and coil i tried starting it, nothing. Didnt even try, crank crank crank crank crank crank crank, nada. Just to be 100% sure fuel was indeed at the rail i turned the key let it prime, went under the hood and pressed the scrader valve. . . . .. . . . . . nothing, nothing but pressurized gas. I'm thinkin, "ooooh boy, i really gonna get it now". So i decide to further invesitgate by pulling the rear line off of the fuel filter. Turn the key, prime. . . . . . .. . .. . no fuel comes out the line Just. Air. I hang my head in shame go get my gas can and put all 5 gallons into the tank, turn the key 2 times fuel starts pouring out the line. Reconnect the line turn the key another dozen times, each time letting the air out at the scrader valve until fuel is squirting out. Turn the truck over aaaaand VERROOOOOMM. While i havent gotten to drive it to confirm this was the issue, i am pretty certain it is. The fuel pump was completely out of the fuel before i put gas in it, it was very loud compared to now. Now its as quite as a mouse. I will let you know a little later tonight if the problem is fixed. Now everybody, all at once :fs2: :soap box: :mad: :hateputers: :fool: :thwak: :rant:

to late, new coil and cps are already bought, will be installing as soon as i do cruisers cps mod.

Whats the plan of action if i can't find a Mopar or OEM crank sensor? Just keep exhanging at the parts store until i get a good one? I think what i am gonna do is go and exhange my current CPS for another "new" one and grab a new coil while i'm at it and see what happens.

Well i already know, my "new" sensor is no good, so if i test it for ohms and compare it to my old one maybe i can learn something. What ohms should i be getting? Update: Old sensor read 240 ohm new sensor read 220 ohm Figured i would test them for the helluva it. Does this mean anything?

Stock sensor is too hot if you are doing a dual electric fan setup. As for the coupling i am not entirely sure of what year Saab, i would probably say mid 90s but to be sure set a week aside and read through this thread (41 pg), it talks alot about this and what switches can be used http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/ford-taurus-wiring-solution-cheap-1325896/index11.html Really good stuff in there, it just takes a bit to find it.

Have you cleaned the connector that couples the HL harness to the rest of the harness?

:agree: Hit it right on the head Geonovast.

My money is on CPS, but do what Hornbrod said first.

I will consider that Pete, its just 55 is a lot to pay just for a shot in the dark. Update: CPS pulled, I have two sensors in my possession. One is the brand new one that i just took off and the old, but still new one that i replaced for good measure and there is bare wire exposed where it goes into the sensor. Figured i was doing myself a favor. :doh: Is there anyway to test a CPS off of the vehicle? and i can't find a mopar replacement, anywhere. Got any suggestions? or Links? Can a misreading CPS be corrected through Cruiser's modification?

Yes i am WELL aware of what a major PITA the CPS can be and yes i have read Cruiser's writeup, thats how i knew how to test it in the first place. :D PETE, Heat soak effecting the coil has been on my mind since the start, but that theory fell through when the truck won't start and its ice. cold. And i have tested the coil and it checked out.

But if there IS no lower bung...the problem is finding a suitable switch...you know, since there isn't a bung...which started the whole discussion. Even with a manual switch, or a regular switch, or an adjustable switch, or an alternately engineered switch...your fan will still work with the A/C - Defrost selection on the HVAC controls. If there is no lower bung you need either a temperature probe, like the Hayden system OR find your self a Saab temperature switch housing from a JY and splice it into your lower hose. Threads for this are same as jeep 22 x 1.5 Metric This sounds like a good option and you know, since it's adjustable, you can dial it in. Other than a manual switch that is always available. The REAL question is "Which Switch is Which"?? It's a Bi#ch!! :???: Another cerveza please. Not following you. Which switch? Any old switch will be fine, so long as it can stand up to the current draw. ;)

Update: tested the CPS, mulitmeter set on ACV 200, its the symbol with the squiggly line over the V When cranking started it climbed .1 .2 .3 stopped at .3 and did not go any higher. It was also not a straight jump to .3 it took a rotation or two. I understand that this probably doesnt help the situation, but it couldnt be the whole problem, could it?

Tested and adjusted the TPS, seems to be functioning properly. Reference voltage was 4.90 Output before adjustment was .003 or something like that adjusted to .80, thats as close as i could get to .82 reliably After adjustment i tried to start the truck, keep in mind this is about 5hrs since the last time it started and drove. First 2 attempts it didnt even try, cranked for a solid 5 seconds. 3 attempt started to try, 4 attempt obviously trying to start but not even close to running. So now i got nothin, totally out of ideas.

no i havent, but i do know it is getting spark, just not enough of it. Like i said a few post earlier, its painfully obvious that it wants to start, but just won't. I went ahead and ordered a new TPS, they don't carry mopar brand, its another borg-warner part, 55 bucks. I havent acutally bought it yet, i just want to have it ready just in case. I will be testing the TPS as soon as i post this. . .

and if you wanted to use an adjustable fan controller i have done a bit of digging on the Hayden system and it seems to be a pretty good little unit, very few bad reviews. cheaper too. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/HDN0/3647.oap

Try this link http://rodneydickman.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=233 You want the 210/200 switch $19. And you are 100% spot on with your hypothesis about the coolant being much hotter coming out of the head (where this switch will be) than where the stock switch is, at the bottom driver's side of the rad. The trouble is how cold in the coolant coming out of the rad? I have determined there is about a 30* difference between the coolant coming out of the radiator and the coolant at the back of the head. I know this because, i just finished testing a 199* switch in the lower bung and it did not turn the fan on until 230* according to the gauge in the dash, which gets its temp from the back of the head. Therefore, you need a switch that makes contact at roughly 180* and breaks contact at 170*. This means the temp at the back of the head would be 210* when the fan kicks on and 200* when the fan kicks off. This is the only switch that fits the bill for the lower bung. https://www.carquest.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_CARQUEST+Heater+%26+A%2FC+Switches+By+Wells__10151_-1_10651_457854?acesApp=1 I believe that between these two switches you would have a perfect cooling system, that would allow you to retain a/c and keep it simple.

right on que sinkrun. :thumbsup:

I appreciate you explaining your situation Zeb, i will definately keep it in mind. Update: I went ahead and took the cap off, it was pretty bad, all the contacts were heavily corroded with carbon build up, it was a pretty old cap. So i picked up a new cap and rotor button, both borg-warner. Black cap with brass contacts inside and out. Put it on and truck started, but seemed off. Re did the plug wires, started up again and sounded "normal". Drove it and it did great, until about 1.5 mile down the road. Right back to the same thing, only now when it starts stumbling there is no stopping it, once it starts, it is gonna die and once it dies i wasnt able to get it to start again. It tries and tries and tries, but just won't freaking catch. I had to wait about 15-20min before it finally started and idled/drove normal and i was able to get it home. Can a coil test good, but be bad? And I will be testing the TPS more fully. thanks for chipping in guys.