ftpiercecracker1

I am fed up with banging my head against a wall because i can't figure out which wires go where or my inability to trace efficiently. I have looked long and hard to find an FSM that is MJ specific, but i don't know if one even exists for them. These are the ones i have been able to find and would like to know if these are what i should be after. thanks a bunch FYI the inside of my door says 89, so do i need one for that or 90? http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=251231094340&item=251231094340&lgeo=1&vectorid=229466 http://www.faxonautoliterature.com/1989-Jeep-Repair-Shop-Manual-Reprint-3-Volume-Set-All-Models-P24351.aspx http://www.faxonautoliterature.com/1989-Jeep-Repair-Shop-Manual-Original-4-Volume-Set-All-Models-P12002.aspx this is a website that seems to have tons of jeep/MJ FSMs, maybe it can help someone else out. http://www.faxonautoliterature.com/Service-Manuals/Jeep/Comanche

don't get me wrong thats a killer rig, but i would say $5,000, tops. Comanches, unfortunately, are not real hot items, thats why you can still find them for 500-1000 bucks. I have seen a few go for more than 6k but they were pretty much works of art. Flawless paint and body with all the add ons you have listed. From an objective standpoint i think $5,000 is a fair deal with neither party making out like a bandit. If your not in a rush to sell you might be able to get $7000 for it, but like Alexia said its going to be a loong wait. Before posting to whatever classifieds you use i would highly recommend giving it a good buff and shine, people like shiny things. :thumbsup:

Exactly, just as i thought. . . . now, what the heck is that thing again?

Just tonight I noticed a humming or buzzing sound coming from the alternator, engine off and key out. Unplugging the alt makes the noise go away. I have done some preliminary research and have heard something about an 'exciter' wire, what ever that is. Or something has been left on in the cab, which there isnt. ftpiercecracker

ROFL :rotf: That is GREAT! :rotfl2:

Dummy lights? :hmm: It has all the usual gauges on a full cluster, Fuel, Tach, Volt, Oil PSI, Coolant temp. I was asking if the board you needed was the same in both clusters (the one with dummy lights and the one with gauges)? I have a dummy light cluster that I could pull the board from. But Correy said it won't work with yours because yours has the gauges. Yup.

Ya, that 45 was definately a typo. :D

yup, but i totally suck at soldering and there are a few places that are broken. The jumper did make a difference, but i think i have a bigger problem than i originally thought. Like 128ohms of resistance on a ground wire run directly to a solid ground.

I was wondering this as well. Things don't happen for no reason and i am still fighting to figure out what the reason might be. I am still working on the wiring for the cluster and i am getting some very strange readings. I think i have some seriously crossed wires, which is odd because just about everything works on the truck, that is except the stupid passenger side marker. :fs1: As of right now All interior and exterior lighting works. I just remembered I downloaded an electrical FSM one of our members posted on here a while back, that should really help with figuring this thing out once and for all. Something i want to run by you is the fact that i have totally removed both the EGR and Emissions Timer wiring. I can't imagine how this could have caused any problems but maybe you have heard something different?

Dummy lights? :hmm: It has all the usual gauges on a full cluster, Fuel, Tach, Volt, Oil PSI, Coolant temp.

Ouch. :ack: What are those two bars in the upper left hand corner just under the knee board?

I need the circuit board that goes onto the back of the gauge cluster, mine has several burnt/broken sections in the copper ribbion that are causing some electrical issues. Truck Details: 1990, 4.0, 5spd, 4x4, Eliminator, FULL cluster These are the numbers printed in copper on the circuit board itself. OP-088-01 546-0089 If anyone is going to their junkyard i will gladly reimburse you for the part and pay for shipping to my address if you find one in good condition. The junkyards in my area either don't have jeeps old enough or charge absurd prices. Thanks a bunch fellas ftpiercecracker

I have some semi "good" news. In a last ditch effort i did some searching about soldering the connection and found several threads that inspired some hope. I went and picked up an el cheapo soldering iron from ACE and tried my hand at it. Let me tell you, I SUCK at soldering. But either way i got a wire to stick on each side of the worst break. It actually worked, kinda. The light output has doubled but is far from the normal. It went from a barely glowing element to actually visible light. I checked the volts and they went down dramatically, from 7.50volts to .25volts. I think i have done all i can do to salvage the old circuit board so the next step is to rustle up a new one. ftpiercecracker

Appreciate you lookin, got any idea where one can be found besides a JY? What exactly are these strips even called???

I put a card a while back under the wiper of a black MJ in the parking lot of my college, never heard of them. :( Oh BTW who do i contact to get some more cards?

That is precisely what i was dreading to hear you say. I assume the only compatable ones are on MJ/XJ from 87-90 with the full cluster? Sometimes i really hate having such a unique truck, :fs1:but i wouldnt get rid of it for the world. :thumbsup: I am just keeping my fingers crossed that you have one to spare. :crossfingers:

Si senior full cluster, 1990 swb 5spd 4x4 Eliminator, white. Do you think my analysis is correct?

That would be awesome! OP-088-01 546-0089

I do think i have found the problem. After spending hours tracing i have finally determined what i think to be the problem. This would also explain my strange guage behaviour. Where can i buy a new one of these V v V The copper/plastic thingy that goes on the back of the guage cluster. These are a couple, of what appear to be, broken sections in the copper ribbon. I actually have known about these breaks for quite a while but havent given them much thought because the dash lights work. Image Not Found Image Not Found

Well SOB, i solve one problem only for two more to spring up. Dash lights all work great now as well as all interior lights. But now my blinkers are on the fritz. I have no blinkers to speak of, they don't even click. The Driver's side HL, side indicator and lower indicator are all bright and appear normal. The Passenger side HL works, the lower indicator works very intermittently and the side marker doesnt work at all. The blub, socket, wiring, ground, and crimps in harness are all good all the way to the firewall. The problem is somewhere in the cab. Headlight switch is good as are all fuses (checked three times and replaced any questionable ones) I did a test using my mulit meter to compare side marker sockets. This is what i am reading. . . PASS: blue wire - 12 volts / Brown wire - 7.50 volts <<< something is wrong here. :wall: DRIVER: blue wire - 12 volts / gray wire - .13 volts P.S. I don't know if this effects blinkers or not but the BED IS NOT ON. The other thing that has arisen is the 'low' setting on my wipers has quit. Before i fixed it only the low and high worked, no intermittent, but now the intermittent and high work, but not the low. Since both the wiper and blinker controls go through the same toggle on the steering column i am starting to look very hard at it. Ftpiercecracker.

Like i said, what the hell do i know :rotf: Although i am suprised to hear, does that mean there are some MJ that came without the resistor?

Yep. Only there to reduce fuel pump noise. I was thinking about this and had a thought ( :idea:) The resistors purpose is to regulate the volts to the pump based on the demand for fuel by the engine. Thus leading me to believe that removing it might cause the premature failure of the pump. Without the resistor the pump would be running full tilt at all times instead of only when needed. I would not be surprised if i am way off base, but just don't understand why they would put something on simply to make the pump 'quieter. :dunno: ' My 2 cents. ;)

This is very nice little upgrade. I have personally done it with great success.

What am i supposed to put in the report box so i can get these bastards out of here, they are really starting to piss me off. :mad: :headpop: :soap box: EDIT: thanks mods :cheers: Keep up the good work. :thumbsup:

ya, I don't know what is going on there, but back to your question. Any comanche or cherokee 4.0 radiator should work fine as far as fitment, BUT I am not sure about your coolant temp sensor. I do not know what year it was that it was moved to the t-stat housing from the radiator, but I do know the renix sensor is not compatible.